Should I buy this?

C

CoffeeCat2112

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I know practically nothing about old knives, but I know that I would like some, especially old ebony ones. I found the following knife online for a very reasonable price, but I know nothing about it:
il_fullxfull.jpg


il_fullxfull-1.jpg


On the tangs, it's marked
A. Field & Co.
Progress

I have found a little bit of info about the company online, and I believe this one is an American made knife from what I have read.

I have emailed the seller asking if the one pin is missing or if it just looks that way in the pics, and if the blades open and close correctly and don't wobble badly. If the pin is missing, is that a big deal to have repaired?
 
I have not found much info. A. Field and Co. + Progress is a name of Manufacturer and Wholesaler that was active in NY and/or Sheffield England during 1936-1943, the knives were made in US/Germany/England. Not much info but something to start with.
Personally, if the springs are firm I would have taken it no doubt. It' a great looking knife that needs some TLC.
Mike
 
Mike, that's about all I found about it, too. Apparently, the ones marked "Progress" were US made, while others were made in England, Germany, etc.
I'm waiting to hear back from the seller with some more details about condition, so we'll see.
 
I took the liberty to brighten up the image. I see its the rocker pin. If the rocker pin is missing the knife will not operate and it will reguire some work to replace the pin. If its lose it may need to be replaced as well. If its solid and just short and then you may be ok if the blades walk and talk. Proceed with caution. It is a beautiful knife. Be sure and ask all the questions and I see only one side so far.

AFieldcopy_zps941d9fb4.jpg
 
Dude! It's a KNIFE! Of course you should buy it.
 
I found a pic of the other side, as well:
fullxfull-2.jpg


It looks like the pin might be there?

Gevonovich said:
I took the liberty to brighten up the image. I see its the rocker pin. If the rocker pin is missing the knife will not operate and it will reguire some work to replace the pin. If its lose it may need to be replaced as well. If its solid and just short and then you may be ok if the blades walk and talk. Proceed with caution. It is a beautiful knife. Be sure and ask all the questions and I see only one side so far.

AFieldcopy_zps941d9fb4.jpg
Click to expand...
 
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Doesn't look like a fake if that's the primary concern. It has a blade and original wood and shield, seems worth it if you are willing rehab it or if you have someone that can. Assuming the price is good.
 
I have bought many knives that were in that condition, probably a good 80% of them have turned out to be excellent knives, if and when you get a knife like this - throw it into a Mineral oil Bath, let it soak for a few days-then work those blades...work them a lot, then have a scrape inside the liner wit a bamboo skewer, give the blades a good scraping with something NON abrasive...0000 grade steel wool is perfect for this-dont use any grade coarser ( 000 or 00 etc ) as these will scratch it up-also make the blades shine ( yuk on an old knife ), after doing that...throw it back into the oil bath ( Baby oil ), then repeat the process...you will be blown away just how good the knife comes up-warning...take "before" shots before you start...as you will want to show off to us the ever eager audience :D
ps...buy it for anything less than $15.00, also ask the question as others have said, blade wobble is an important question, the walk and talk of the knife etc, gaps ..if you cant see through poor photos-ask for one to be taken on the angles that you want etc
Good luck :thumbup:
 
It comes down to price = value for you, if you feel it has some value to you, buy it. I like old knives and get them fairly cheap at a big outdoor flea market, some look to be in real ruff shape, but after a few minutes of cleaning and some mineral oil turn out to be a nice gem. I bought a old Utica that I couldn't open the blades & at the time could not I.D. it for a few bucks, after cleaning it up the scales were exquisite, at the time it looked like it spent a century at the bottom of a mud puddle. One mans trash is another mans treasure, I've been laughed at buy people at the flea market for what I have bought from vendors, but heck I got a 1970 10 dot red bone Case #47 Stockman for $5 because the blades had surface rust, it cleaned up nice and has plenty of value to me. In the end you have to determine if it has value, tough from a picture but if the price is right and it tickles your fancy get it.
http://strazors.com/uploads/images/articles/Alfred_Field.pdf
http://books.google.com/books?id=ko...a=X&ei=Qb0gUZSuF7Gx0AHz6oDwBw&ved=0CE0Q6AEwBw

Pete
 
Thanks for all the information, guys! The seller is asking more than what Duncan mentions, but I thought that was ok for something that old, as long as everything works ok on it. Then again, I have no idea what these old knives sell for. I'll just have to wait and hear back from the seller and see.
 
Blaine, price realy has nothing to do with it my friend, I apologise if i put a cat amongst the pidgeons by even mentioning price....its what you want to pay for it, it will be great to see the results.
 
Don't apologize, Duncan! I honestly have no idea what these old knives go for. My only frame of reference was inside my own head - "That doesn't seem like a painful price for what it is." I should head over to the auction site and poke around to see what old ebony jack knives go for, I suppose.
 
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