I use the spyderco sharpmaker for touch ups and occasionaly use the edge pro for kitchen knives, but these methods are too time consuming when major sharpening or re-profiling needs to happen. Edges get chipped, axes dull, new acquisitions may have terrible edges, etc.......to resolve these issues you are talking hours on the egde pro or sharpmaker. The tormek seems ridiculously overpriced for what it is so I was thinking some type of belt grinder like a knifemaker would use. Is this a logical step and if so how does one manage the task without ruining heat treat?
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Should I just buy a grinder?
- Thread starter hudak
- Start date
if you want something that is fast, go with the paper wheels. i sharpened 241 folders that never had an edge in a total of 17 hours. some had 2-3 blades each. here are a couple links to check out.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=578787 paper wheel thread
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=651061 Good Man......Richard J
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=578787 paper wheel thread
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=651061 Good Man......Richard J
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Kalamazoo model SM-1 1x42 Belt Grinder is my choice. I can't claim that it will give any better edges than the paper wheels (especially like Richard uses 'em!) but I love the ability to switch down to 60-grit to tear off the metal and reshape a broken-off tip or cut out big chips in seconds, then work that edge all the way up through half-micron or finer on leather to leave a mirror polish.
As to keeping heat treat, there's a few things to remember.
1: It's not as hard as you'd think! Remember, tool steel generally doesn't start to lose it's temper until ~400F. You can't HOLD ON to something above around 150F, your body will reflex-drop it. The way I control it when I'm sharpening on my belt is to just pinch the edge between my fingers the moment it comes off the belt. If I can feel warmth (usually every other pass or so) I just dunk it in a cup of cool water for three or four seconds, and it's stone-cold again and ready for more grinding.
2: Lower belt speeds are your friend! One of the biggest things that a slower belt like the Kalamazoo has going for it is the slow surface-feet speed of the abrasive surface. It makes the metal come off more slowly so it's easier to control, and keeps the heating down.
3: LIGHT pressure, let the belt do the work! Don't lean into it, there's no need. The abrasive works just as well (and leaves a nicer finish) with as light a pressure as you can manage. It also builds up less heat.
As to keeping heat treat, there's a few things to remember.
1: It's not as hard as you'd think! Remember, tool steel generally doesn't start to lose it's temper until ~400F. You can't HOLD ON to something above around 150F, your body will reflex-drop it. The way I control it when I'm sharpening on my belt is to just pinch the edge between my fingers the moment it comes off the belt. If I can feel warmth (usually every other pass or so) I just dunk it in a cup of cool water for three or four seconds, and it's stone-cold again and ready for more grinding.
2: Lower belt speeds are your friend! One of the biggest things that a slower belt like the Kalamazoo has going for it is the slow surface-feet speed of the abrasive surface. It makes the metal come off more slowly so it's easier to control, and keeps the heating down.
3: LIGHT pressure, let the belt do the work! Don't lean into it, there's no need. The abrasive works just as well (and leaves a nicer finish) with as light a pressure as you can manage. It also builds up less heat.
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- Jul 22, 2009
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- 11,409
Terminology is a bit confusing. When someone just says "grinder" I think bench grinder, with the stone wheels and all, which is a big no no if you intend to keep your knives in one piece. Now belt sander is what comes to mind when I think of a Kalamazoo.
The paper wheels will do good for reprofiling the edge and sharpening. But grinding chips out of a dull axe or machete will take a while, and regrinding is out of the question. It may also come in handy if you ever plan to make your own knives someday, just for giggles.
As for as heat goes, it may sometimes be easy to burn the blade on really thin areas(say, the tip) on low grits even on a single pass, so take caution with that one. The heat at the point of contact will be hotter than where you're holding the blade. Practicing with cheap blades on new belt grits should give you an idea of how fast heat builds up.
The paper wheels will do good for reprofiling the edge and sharpening. But grinding chips out of a dull axe or machete will take a while, and regrinding is out of the question. It may also come in handy if you ever plan to make your own knives someday, just for giggles.
As for as heat goes, it may sometimes be easy to burn the blade on really thin areas(say, the tip) on low grits even on a single pass, so take caution with that one. The heat at the point of contact will be hotter than where you're holding the blade. Practicing with cheap blades on new belt grits should give you an idea of how fast heat builds up.
Razorsharp-Travis
BANNED
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if you are going to use a grinder, make sure it has a belt attachment , the wheels screw your knives
+1 You'd have to pry my Kalamazoo out of my cold, dead, hands.
I've never used paper wheels but it's hard to imagine they could be quicker or more versatile than a belt sander/grinder.
You do the convex edges on the slack part of the belt. Do the V grinds on the platen, either way, both are no problem on the Kalamazoo.
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Get a grinder... with sausage and extra cheese. I did.
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I would say paper wheels are more convenient for sharpening and cheaper too. Since both the wheels can be mounted on the same time on each side, there's no need to swap anything out like you would need to do with the belts. That being said, I feel a belt sander would be more flexible for heavy metal removal or a perfect mirror finish if you're feeling psychotic+1 You'd have to pry my Kalamazoo out of my cold, dead, hands.
I've never used paper wheels but it's hard to imagine they could be quicker or more versatile than a belt sander/grinder.
You do the convex edges on the slack part of the belt. Do the V grinds on the platen, either way, both are no problem on the Kalamazoo.
.i have a belt sander and i can put a v edge on a lot faster with the wheels than with a belt sander. in the time it would take me to set 1 bevel on the belt sander i can be done working up a burr with the grit wheel and moving to the slotted wheel to remove the burr.
MVF
Gold Member
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The Kalamazoo is my next sharpening purchase - useful for lots of other jobs too. Just a note if you're looking at going for a cheaper (Harbor Freight goes down to <$40 for a 1"x30" IIRC) belt grinder - all the ones I've looked at have much faster belt speeds than the SM-1. They're also not built as well. Many people seem to be very happy with these, so obviously they can work but you have to be much more careful about overheating the edge and tip. Also, they can remove metal faster than you might like as a beginner.
I believe the SM-1 is actually in the same ballpark as an EdgePro (had one, sold it) or Wicked Edge (have one) even with some belts, so it's actually a good price for what it can do.
I believe the SM-1 is actually in the same ballpark as an EdgePro (had one, sold it) or Wicked Edge (have one) even with some belts, so it's actually a good price for what it can do.
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If making knives.. get a good belt grinder ($500-$3000). If just reprofiling then get a cheap-o belt grinder (Craftsman $150). If just sharpening, just take your time with your current system. If you got the dough, listen to Richard J and try the paper wheels. For axes, a good file will put a popping edge on.
splat, try not putting any compound on the slotted wheel the next time you sharpen a knife with the wheels. when protourist was down i showed him a novelty edge by removing the burr on a bare slotted wheel. it had some residual compound still on the wheel. after whittling a hair as if it was a toothpick i applied some compound and took off the novelty edge.