Should I oil CPM154? Should I oil 154CM? What Cr alloys should it?

MyLegsAreOk

MyLegsAreOk

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Aug 31, 2017
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Topic says it all. I'm very curious if I ever need to oil lower end steels. I realize 440* and s30v are basically the same alloy, so don't think s**(*)v are super steels when it comes to this discussion. What steels with chromium (which makes them "stainless") should I oil? EDC fixed blade was made with H-1 it never needed anything, my new EDC fixed is CPM154 so I'm curious.
 
I don't oil any stainless steels, including 154CM and CPM 154. Just stuff like INFI (mostly as a precaution) and 1095. I keep an eye on D2, and I guess if I were sticking a D2 knife in long-term storage I'd probably oil it just to be safe.

It's wet here in the PNW; I've never had any problems. :)
 
I dont oil stainless either, and prefer wax on other steels for storage. it's wet and humid here, where i am, though. I do eyeball them all from time to time as stainless can get rust spots even in conditioned lower rh environment. that can happen from not cleaning or wiping clean and dry before storage though and not just from the wet alone.

so guess depends where you're at. west of Mississippi, im oversimplyfying it, where its dry or climate zone 1 or 2 east side where its wet or damp.
 
I put a very light coat of non-toxic mineral oil on all my blades. It's a very small amount and usually after I've cleaned them. Even if it isn't necessary for corrosion control, it seems to help in keeping them clean. For instance, tape residue seems easier to remove from an oiled blade. A quick cloth wipe seems to go further on an oiled blade too.
 
I oil mine occasionally. I just recently switched over to using mineral oil. Below is a photo of my Gerber Gator 650 in 154CM. It's 15 years old with the factory edge still on it and not a speck of rust. It's been on my belt everyday that I have owned it. Should I oil it? I say yes because I don't like to take unnecessary chances.

GG-1a.jpg
 
Just keep it clean & dry. Oil the pivots to minimize wear.

Some stainless steels might show some rust spots if they're left neglected (dirty and/or wet) for a long time, or left a long time in wet and/or corrosive conditions. But all of this can be minimized simply by keeping it clean & dry. That's easy to do, if you're using the knife and looking at it on a regular basis. It's the 'dirty' stuff left neglected on blades for awhile, that holds moisture and contributes the most to rusting.

I keep my stainless blades clean & dry simply by wiping them down with a paper towel or tissue spritzed with some Windex, after use. That's been a bullet-proof strategy for me, so far.
 
Think about the name “stainless” emphasis on “less”. Typically you don’t have to worry about treating a stainless blade. However, if it gives you a warm fuzzy feeling, why not. Personally, I don’t worry about my stainless blades, but if I’m treating my non stainless blades and a stainless is in the mix, I’ll do that also. The worst for me is ZDP-189, for a stainless steel, it sure does develop spots faster than any other stainless I’ve encountered if it’s not wiped down soon after use.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
Just keep it clean & dry. Oil the pivots to minimize wear.

Some stainless steels might show some rust spots if they're left neglected (dirty and/or wet) for a long time, or left a long time in wet and/or corrosive conditions. But all of this can be minimized simply by keeping it clean & dry. That's easy to do, if you're using the knife and looking at it on a regular basis. It's the 'dirty' stuff left neglected on blades for awhile, that holds moisture and contributes the most to rusting.

I keep my stainless blades clean & dry simply by wiping them down with a paper towel or tissue spritzed with some Windex, after use. That's been a bullet-proof strategy for me, so far.
Click to expand...

I also make sure that I don't leave fingerprints on my blades before I close them or put them up.
 
000Robert said:
I also make sure that I don't leave fingerprints on my blades before I close them or put them up.
Click to expand...

:thumbsup:

If I remember correctly, that's what first got me started in using some Windex on my blades. It's a good degreaser, so it takes those fingerprint oils off easily. Years ago, I found a perfect facsimile of my fingerprint in rust on the blade of a Schrade Old Timer in 1095 steel. That's when it occurred to me to wipe the blade down with some Windex before folding it closed. Even on a non-stainless blade, that goes a long way toward minimizing rust issues.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
:thumbsup:

If I remember correctly, that's what first got me started in using some Windex on my blades. It's a good degreaser, so it takes those fingerprint oils off easily. Years ago, I found a perfect facsimile of my fingerprint in rust on the blade of a Schrade Old Timer in 1095 steel. That's when it occurred to me to wipe the blade down with some Windex before folding it closed. Even on a non-stainless blade, that goes a long way toward minimizing rust issues.
Click to expand...

I wipe mine down with alcohol and then oil them. I bought a whole box of 99% alcohol before the pandemic hit. It was actually great timing - I stocked up on alcohol, Nitrile textured gloves, and N95 masks a month or so before the pandemic hit!
Never thought about using Windex.
 
Hi
https://knifesteelnerds.com/2019/10/14/corrosion-resistance-testing/
says oil below 7 corrosion rating (last column)
corrosion-rating-table-12-10-19.jpg
 
Last edited:
I don't oil stainless. Except a drop on a pivot occasionally.
I oil the joints on my carbon steel slipjoints.
 
bucketstove said:
Hi
https://knifesteelnerds.com/2019/10/14/corrosion-resistance-testing/
says oil below 7 corrosion rating
corrosion-rating-table-12-10-19.jpg
Click to expand...
Thanks for this list, I didn't even know some of the high speed tool steels had ANY chromium in them. Your recommendation will be taken in to consideration in that 7% is too little. Why does H1 have 0% nitrogen? I thought that was the process to which gave it the inoxidible properties was to nitrogenate it.
Bigfattyt said:
I don't oil stainless. Except a drop on a pivot occasionally.
I oil the joints on my carbon steel slipjoints.
Click to expand...
You don't oil your carbon slip joints at all? el oh el wat
Still yeah on your folders get that st.claire nano oil if you don't have it already. It's amazing.
 
MyLegsAreOk said:
Thanks for this list, I didn't even know some of the high speed tool steels had ANY chromium in them. Your recommendation will be taken in to consideration in that 7% is too little. Why does H1 have 0% nitrogen? I thought that was the process to which gave it the inoxidible properties was to nitrogenate it.
Click to expand...
Hi,

its the lots and lots of chromium in solution that gives corrosion resistance
(free chromium)
https://knifesteelnerds.com/2019/06/24/h1-steel-how-it-works/
says H1 has .1% nitrogen maximum

the last column marked "Rating" is where you should look for the line cut off
The chart linked lists the chromium "in solution" , its not the total chromium
http://zknives.com/knives/steels/steelgraph.php?nm=h1,19c27,xhp,d2
lists compositions, xhp has the same amount of chromium as h1 ,
but its locked up in carbides

so back to the chart which lists chromium in solution
corrosion resistance = Cr + 1.6*Mo + 0.8*W + 6*N.
H1 = Cr (15.0) + 1.6*Mo (1.0) + 0.8*W (0) + 6*N (0.1).
H1 = 15.0 + 1.6 + .6 = 17
H1 = Cr (15.0) + 1.6*Mo (1.0) + 0.8*W (0) + 6*N (0.0)
H1 = 15.0 + 1.6 = 16.6
rated a 10.0

19C27 = Cr (11.5) + 1.6*Mo (0.0) + 0.8*W (0) + 6*N (0.0)
19C27 = 11.5
rated a 7.0

XHP = Cr (9.7) + 1.6*Mo (0.6) + 0.8*W (0) + 6*N (0.0)
XHP = 9.7 + 1
XHP = 10.7
rated a 6.4
 
Finish can matter too. For instance, a bead blast finish will increase surface area and can accumulate corrosion-promoters.

The finger-print tale is telling. I had something similar happen with D2, although it was a hazy rust spot within the fingerprint. It was like how mold can grow off a fingerprint on a block of cheese. :oops:
 
Got a few Grips in 154cm. Never oiled them and use them often. The liners are rusting, but the blade is clean.
 
MyLegsAreOk said:
Thanks for this list, I didn't even know some of the high speed tool steels had ANY chromium in them. Your recommendation will be taken in to consideration in that 7% is too little. Why does H1 have 0% nitrogen? I thought that was the process to which gave it the inoxidible properties was to nitrogenate it.

You don't oil your carbon slip joints at all? el oh el wat
Still yeah on your folders get that st.claire nano oil if you don't have it already. It's amazing.
Click to expand...

Nope. My high carbon steel will typically go years bare...no oil. I just rinse off the blade and wipe off on a paper towel, or on my pants.

AZHyMpe.jpg
 
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