Should I put a convex edge on my ASH1?

bentheknife

bentheknife

Joined
Aug 4, 2010
Messages
29
I got an ASH1 LE off a guy here on the forum the other day, I like it a lot, but i just assumed they all had convex edges. I am definitely a Busse noob. I bought this knife as a user and I want a convex edge because I have better luck sharpening.
Could I take sandpaper to it and work it down to a convex or is that going to be harder than I think it is, or is there someone I can send it to that can put a wicked convex edge on it and not screw it up? Or should I just not mess with such a pretty knife?
 
vex it mang,,,, easy to do with a mousepad and sandpaper. check youtube for a tutorial
 
I did a full convex on my Skinny ASH1. It's a slicer and dicer now. But on the LE, just a nice convex final edge should do fine and not mess up the looks.

Busses013-1.jpg
 
if it's being a pain to establish a new convex, what I generally do is put it on a lansky at the highest angle, and grind until the edge planes meet, then finish it off on sandpaper with leather or mousepad backing. that'll knock the shoulders off the edge, and give you that subtle bullet shaped profile
 
Just do it. Convexing INFI with just sandpaper is really easy - it grinds very nicely. Good luck and show us pics!
 
Where is the youtube of the guy convexing the Becker or Rat/ESEE with sandpaper and his strop-block. That dude went to TOWN on that blade.
 
I convexed the hell out of it, its poppin hairs now. I dont think I've ever been more proud of myself. Thanks for the encouragement gentlemen, I don't feel like such a noob anymore
 
Last edited:
Awesome work and you SHOULD be proud :thumbup:

I'll be honest, a little over a year ago I went on a convex binge (bought all the papers, compounds, strop etc.) and tried to do it, but, for the life of me, could NOT get a good edge with sandpaper and a mousepad. I destroyed a few cheap folders and dulled the hell outta a skinny ASH (but the edge WAS very shiny ;))

I watched the videos, used a sharpie and practiced practiced practiced - I maybe put in 12+ hours of work and could not get a sharp edge. Maybe I'm a moron or butterfingers, but I just cant do it.

I have since convinced myself that a nice 40* V grind can take care of what I need a blade to do...

Regretfully yours,
-Sharpmaker for life

:D
 
Send it to Richard for a convex edge; you won't be disappointed. Crappy picture of an excellent sharpening job.

attachment.php
 
TrailWolf said:
a nice 40* V grind can take care of what I need a blade to do...

Regretfully yours,
-Sharpmaker for life
Click to expand...

Nothing wrong with the Sharpmaker. :thumbup:

Try reprofiling an edge at the 30* setting, then use the white stones at 40* for a few light passes to create a microbevel. You get the benefit of the more acute angle, (better cutting) and the microbevel protects the edge so it lasts longer.
 
TrailWolf said:
Awesome work and you SHOULD be proud :thumbup:

I'll be honest, a little over a year ago I went on a convex binge (bought all the papers, compounds, strop etc.) and tried to do it, but, for the life of me, could NOT get a good edge with sandpaper and a mousepad. I destroyed a few cheap folders and dulled the hell outta a skinny ASH (but the edge WAS very shiny ;))

I watched the videos, used a sharpie and practiced practiced practiced - I maybe put in 12+ hours of work and could not get a sharp edge. Maybe I'm a moron or butterfingers, but I just cant do it.

I have since convinced myself that a nice 40* V grind can take care of what I need a blade to do...

Regretfully yours,
-Sharpmaker for life

:D
Click to expand...

After watching the guy do it with a strop-block and sandpaper, I'd never consider using a mouse pad. I tried to do one knife with a mouse pad. It failed miserably. Next time, strop-block.

Here is the vid:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMPCUH_acXM

For now, when I convex, I use my Harbor Freight belt sander. Not the best option, but better than 12 hours with a mousepad.
 
resinguy said:
Nothing wrong with the Sharpmaker. :thumbup:

Try reprofiling an edge at the 30* setting, then use the white stones at 40* for a few light passes to create a microbevel. You get the benefit of the more acute angle, (better cutting) and the microbevel protects the edge so it lasts longer.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice - never considered using the 30* setting, but have the diamond stones so can reprofile pretty easily - I think this will be a good weekend project :D Now to just pick which blade gets it - I'm thinking Scrofa or SAR3!

Dennis in MA said:
After watching the guy do it with a strop-block and sandpaper, I'd never consider using a mouse pad. I tried to do one knife with a mouse pad. It failed miserably. Next time, strop-block.

Here is the vid:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kMPCUH_acXM

For now, when I convex, I use my Harbor Freight belt sander. Not the best option, but better than 12 hours with a mousepad.
Click to expand...

That video is amazing - the dude makes it look too easy... Maybe I will give it ONE more shot wrapping paper on my strop... I'm still trying to decide if its worth the time and effort since how well a V grind has been working for me for my usage... we shall see :D
 
I have done all of mine by hand on the mousepad. Includiing FBMLE. The KZ2 has taken some elbow grease! Still working on that one!

It should definitely improve the chopping performance!
 
I also use the strop block when sharpening. It is a more firm surface, and gives even morfe control. One thing about the mousepad is that the surface is so soft that with midsized knives and up you have to keep a light touch or you wrap the edge and actually dull it.

Another thing I will also do, is take the mousepad off, and use the sand paper directly on the glass pane I use. Removes steel faster (some break the shoulder on course stones first. I don't have any large course stones, so often will use lower grits on glass to accomplish the same thing).
 
Bigfattyt said:
I also use the strop block when sharpening. It is a more firm surface, and gives even morfe control. One thing about the mousepad is that the surface is so soft that with midsized knives and up you have to keep a light touch or you wrap the edge and actually dull it.

.
Click to expand...

Agreed. The typical thick neoprene foam mousepad is too soft. Better are the thin, firm ones. Even a thick magazine will work.
 
TrailWolf said:
Awesome work and you SHOULD be proud :thumbup:

I'll be honest, a little over a year ago I went on a convex binge (bought all the papers, compounds, strop etc.) and tried to do it, but, for the life of me, could NOT get a good edge with sandpaper and a mousepad. I destroyed a few cheap folders and dulled the hell outta a skinny ASH (but the edge WAS very shiny ;))

I watched the videos, used a sharpie and practiced practiced practiced - I maybe put in 12+ hours of work and could not get a sharp edge. Maybe I'm a moron or butterfingers, but I just cant do it.

I have since convinced myself that a nice 40* V grind can take care of what I need a blade to do...

Regretfully yours,
-Sharpmaker for life

:D
Click to expand...
I am glad I am not the only one who has problems with convex edge sharpening, never mind convexing a blade. And yes, I can get it very shiny but it's not sharp. Plus, it takes hours and I just don't have the time to do it. It's lots of fun though. I think I have a problem with the fact that there is no accurate angle, so all is kind of "unclear" how high should I lift the spine, how do I know if I sharpen the edge, or the spine, or roll over the edge unless I constantly observe the edge with a magnifying glass and magic marker trick. I achieved a burr using coarse grit sandpaper once in a while but that's about it. Most of the youtube videos about convex sharpening start with a rather sharp edge and just touch it up with 1000 grit and then strop + compound. I think I could do that but the point is, sharpening a dull edge takes hours and is a pain in the a..!
Thanks
 
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