should I resurface my anvil?

Luke Smart · Dec 3, 2002

My Hay-Budden anvil has some small dents all over the face. I was going to take it to work, and resurface it on the milling machine. My question is, is this a terrible idea? I will probably need to take a 1/16 off to remove all the dents. Have any of you folks ever refinished any of your anvils? Any suggestions would be very helpfull. Thanks!!

Luke Smart

Gib Guignard · Dec 3, 2002

I resurfaced my anvil in the following way, the edges
were crumbling off about 1/2" -3/4" I built it up with
a arc welder using LH70 rod then using a angle grinder
a small 4 1/2" type, ground it off so it was flat using
a straight edge to get the high spots out. Worked great
still using it after 14 years with no problems. Gib

Mike Hull · Dec 3, 2002

Originally posted by smart2k
My Hay-Budden anvil has some small dents all over the face. I was going to take it to work, and resurface it on the milling machine. My question is, is this a terrible idea? I will probably need to take a 1/16 off to remove all the dents. Have any of you folks ever refinished any of your anvils? Any suggestions would be very helpfull. Thanks!!

Luke Smart

I don't see any reason why your idea won't work.

John Frankl · Dec 3, 2002

It all depends. One thing to consider is the marks left by your hammer blows--if they are bigger/deeper than the marks in the face of your anvil, there is no reason to resurface. Another consideration is the potential to weaken/shorten the life of your anvil by grinding away some of the surface. As I'm sure you know, Hay Budden's have a tool steel face forge welded to a wrought iron body--once you get that face too thin, the anvil ceases to be very useful. Finally, I went through this same process about four years ago and everyone I trust in bladesmithing told me to leave it alone.

Good luck whatever you choose,

John

Joe Renner · Dec 3, 2002

My anvil has lots of little dents and dings. This doesnt keep me from getting proper shapes, so its no big deal. I will clean it up every so often. I take a 35 grit bench grinder wheel and scrape it(on its side, the wider face), just to sand off any areas that may be projecting up off the anvil face.
If its not causing problems, why bother with a lot of trouble to fix it.

Joe Renner

Ed Fowler · Dec 4, 2002

When I first started forging blades, the dings in the anvil worried me a lot. Now I don't even see them, I have found more interesting things to do. Make knives!

Raymond Richard · Dec 4, 2002

I would think if you were to use a milling machine on the face you'd need to anneal it. I'd go along with Ed, what little imperfections your going to pick up will most likly be ground off the blade anyway. Make knives......

Luke Smart · Dec 4, 2002

I knew I would get enlightenment from you guys. In other words, stop messing around and get to work! Thanks for all the info. The anvil will remain as is.

Luke Smart

Laredo7mm · Dec 4, 2002

I have a 152# Hay Budden also and I cleaned it up with a belt sander. Worked pretty good.

From what I understand;

Laredo, If memory serves right, you have a post 1909 Hay Budden. This date is significant because starting in 1909, Hay Budden abandoned the old practice of forge welding a tool steel plate to the tops of their anvils. Instead they simply forged the entire top half(waist up) out of tool steel. I think the cutoff serial # was around 13000. The other # is likely an inspection mark. You can find the exact date of manufacture if you can get access to a copy of Anvils in America.

My serial number is 205805 and it was made in 1913.

Hope this helps