Should serrated knives be 'steeled?l

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Mar 21, 2007
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I know most of us (myself included) don't like serrated knives. I was asked if they should be 'steeled.' The knife in question is a Victorinox serrated knife, probably for bread.

Thanks in advance,
Dave
 
What's not to like about serrated knives? Right tool for the right job.

Yes, you can 'steel' a serrated knife.

A steel is for honing an edge, not sharpening.
(Now, if it's a question about sharpening a serrated edge ... :rolleyes:)

Most serrated edges are 'one-sided' and you can use a steel on the non-serrated side just like you would a plain edge knife. On the serrated side, use a very shallow angle.
 
That's an interesting question. I guess it depends on what type of "steel" you're referring to. I doubt if a smooth/hard steel like my F. Dick "Poliron" would do much good. But I have used my F. Dick "Multicut" steel to burnish the back side of a couple of serrated Spyderco kitchen knives I've used for years and it did seem to help somewhat.

I haven't tried any of my diamond or ceramic type "steels" on serrated edges but you've got my curiosity up and I believe I'll give it a try. I do most of my serrated edge knives manually with my Spyderco 701 Profile kit>> on some of the rounded/wavy serration patterns like you see in Spyderco's kitchen knives I've had pretty good luck with my Spyderco 204 Sharpmaker

But I never do any "steeling" on the chisel/toothy side I always try to burnish the edge on the back side when putting a final touch on serrated edges.
 
Not even sure the steel they would use would get into the scallops to really hone the edge. If they are going to I would think they would want to use a very skinny steel.
 
My first instinct says I'd personally not use a grooved steel for a serrated edge; especially if the 'steeling' is done in the usual frantic manner seen on TV with kitchen knives. The 'points' or tips of the serrations are too easily prone to being damaged (rolling, folding, breaking) if they snag or get hung up in the grooves on the rod, which could be counterproductive, or even brutally damaging. Less risk with a smooth steel, i.e., a polished one, perhaps; still need to be careful to keep the angle low, to protect the tips from getting bent/rolled. I've used a ceramic rod on serrated kitchen knives, though very, very lightly and carefully, in a manner similar to that used with a honing steel. So long as the touch is very light, and the angle maintained conservatively low (to protect the tips), that has worked pretty well for me. But I don't like the thought of using a grooved honing steel, for the reason mentioned above.

If the tips of the serrations are already pretty rounded off or blunted (like a lot of heavily used bread knives), maybe not such a big deal.

I might have to experiment with the grooved steel a bit, on one of my bread knives, just to see if it can work any different than what I've already done with them.


David
 
my first instinct says i'd personally not use a grooved steel for a serrated edge; especially if the 'steeling' is done in the usual frantic manner seen on tv with kitchen knives. The 'points' or tips of the serrations are too easily prone to being damaged (rolling, folding, breaking) if they snag or get hung up in the grooves on the rod, which could be counterproductive, or even brutally damaging. Less risk with a smooth steel, i.e., a polished one, perhaps; still need to be careful to keep the angle low, to protect the tips from getting bent/rolled. I've used a ceramic rod on serrated kitchen knives, though very, very lightly and carefully, in a manner similar to that used with a honing steel. So long as the touch is very light, and the angle maintained conservatively low (to protect the tips), that has worked pretty well for me. But i don't like the thought of using a grooved honing steel, for the reason mentioned above.

If the tips of the serrations are already pretty rounded off or blunted (like a lot of heavily used bread knives), maybe not such a big deal.

I might have to experiment with the grooved steel a bit, on one of my bread knives, just to see if it can work any different than what i've already done with them.

he will be using a ceramic hone and a brand-new victorinox serrated bread knife. I suggested what you said- low angle and very light pressure. I appreciate your input.

Thanks,
dave

david

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Using the small part an oval shaped diamond honing rod, yes. Hold the knife at a slight angle to the steel and at the same angle as the serrations and make a few light pulls across the steel, then a few push strokes. Just a few light passes will fold the burr to the flat side of the knife and then it takes just a couple of strokes holding the knife flat against the steel to remove the burr.
 
Steeling serrations will probably make them duller by taking the high points off.
I find I have best results sharpening the back ( flat) side of them with your stone and just de-burring on the scalloped side ( conical diamond rod or ceramic works well). The less you mess with the factory scallops and deform them , the better. You want sharp tips on serrations.

Other than on a bread knife , I have no need for them and usually avoid buying knives with them , although I have tried them out in the past. Steeling knives in general , wether a smooth or striated steel have given me minimal edge improvements.
 
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