Photos Show me your Hults Bruk

Mack

Mack

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Yesterday while perusing one of the local haunts I came across a stamp that I thought I recognized as being a quality axe. The head was a bit rusty and the haft, although really solid was pretty weathered.
Where I found this, the owner generally prices things pretty close to new retail so this having a less than 20 dollar price tag confused me. I paid it, went on my daily coast walk and then came home to see what I had.
It appears to be a pre 1988 Hults Bruk 3 1/2 lb Yankee. After a little time with steel wool and oil, a touch of my puck and a little BLO I think I have a winner.
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HEsDulF.jpg

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All that said, I can't find a lot of info on these. The basics are out there, the history of the company etc. but what else is there?
Your opinions of the axes and pics of yours would be appreciated.
 
As you know, after the chainsaw, there were three production axe forges left standing in Sweden. I have axes from that period of all three , Gransfor Bruk, Wetterling, and Hulks Bruk . They are all good but of the three , the Hults Bruk were the best made. I lack experience to speak to the design.
 
Since they didn't export them to the US until recently, do I assume it came with someone that moved here from Europe?
 
I think blue headed swedish axes were being imported to some degree in the 70's.

If not then I'd guess it probably moved from Canada.
 
Agent_H Agent_H in that other thread mentioned "Bruksabond". Is that the sealant in the eye? I was wondering about it. It is beginning to seperate and I'd like to reseal it. This is the nicest haft I have and I'd like to keep it that way.
 
protourist said:
Agent_H Agent_H in that other thread mentioned "Bruksabond". Is that the sealant in the eye? I was wondering about it. It is beginning to seperate and I'd like to reseal it. This is the nicest haft I have and I'd like to keep it that way.
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I don't know what the best solve is to tighten those up then they start to separate. I have seen a couple with steel wedges driven into them when they come loose but that's kind of a "no going back" patch. If it's already separating maybe trying to knock it loose and driving it out is an option? I've had Permabond heads come out in mostly one piece, maybe you could get enough out that you could trim the tongue down and rehaft it. A small chisel that you aren't in love with around the edges of the eye might help separate it from the steel.
 
rjdankert said:
May not apply to your axe. This is what I did with a Hults Bruk hatchet:
https://bladeforums.com/threads/what-did-you-rehang-today.1064461/page-251#post-18628390

I have put a couple of hours working on dried hardwoods with it since rehanging and still solid.

What ever you do good luck! Nice axe you have.:thumbsup:


Bob
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Thank you, I hope you don't mind, I brought your whole post here to put it where I can find it easily.

"rjdankert, post: 18628390, member:

A few years ago a member rehung a hatchet like this one - epoxy with loose head.


Finally got around got around to doing mine today


Took a little patience to drive out the handle


Never tried to inset a handle. Why not? note the handle had a kerf cut in it, no wedge.


Pine wedge


Not a great photo, but there was not enough wood in the front right side of the tongue to fill the eye. We'll see.


Done, about one inch shorter





Bob"
 
My pre-1988 Agdor hatchet and a new Kalix boy's axe. The hatchet is a gem. The boy's axe is also a nice axe and well worth the difference in price over the crummy stuff I can find at the usual home improvement stores around here.
IMG-5106.jpg
 
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