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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Showing work on new KLVUK Knife
- Thread starter dta116
- Start date
- Joined
- Jun 15, 2006
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- 1,840
Beautifully done!
- Joined
- Jan 23, 2016
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Nice work. Doing a similar restorations work on mine too, three older khukri.
Used a # 150, 240, 400, 800, 1200 and 2000 sands paper to smooth out and remove scratches on the blade surface. The 2000 needed before Metal polisjing.
Rust removal, use a vinegar and coke soda. like the soda better if you don't like the patina effect when using the vinegar.
Use Blue Magic Metal Polished for final result. Use the automotive/car buffer wheels, bought it from wallmart.
Use a Scotch Brite # 04029 to remove dark spot/gouge on the blade and to have a satin finish. also good to clean the Bolster before polishing/buffer..optional.
Khukri's been working now.
1. GAK 12 1/2" blade.
2. Older 10" Blade, Khukri unknown? Need help to identify later.
3. Older 10-11" Blade, Khukri unknown? need help to identify later. Need a new Sheath or make one. Thinking of putting a patina on the blade. 99%.
The GAK (Shorter version) is almost done....was able to salvage/repair broken/cracked horn handle, use a (machine) epoxy to fill up the crack . finalizing polishing work to mirror image (almost). Looking for a new Sheath or make one. Checking ACC.
Use a lot of Mineral Oil... both on the blade and Handle. Good result. I really like this new thing...I learned a lot about khukr and other blades. I also sharpen my khukri myself. I'm getting better but I still have a lot to learn.
Maybe another week will be posting images.
Used a # 150, 240, 400, 800, 1200 and 2000 sands paper to smooth out and remove scratches on the blade surface. The 2000 needed before Metal polisjing.
Rust removal, use a vinegar and coke soda. like the soda better if you don't like the patina effect when using the vinegar.
Use Blue Magic Metal Polished for final result. Use the automotive/car buffer wheels, bought it from wallmart.
Use a Scotch Brite # 04029 to remove dark spot/gouge on the blade and to have a satin finish. also good to clean the Bolster before polishing/buffer..optional.
Khukri's been working now.
1. GAK 12 1/2" blade.
2. Older 10" Blade, Khukri unknown? Need help to identify later.
3. Older 10-11" Blade, Khukri unknown? need help to identify later. Need a new Sheath or make one. Thinking of putting a patina on the blade. 99%.
The GAK (Shorter version) is almost done....was able to salvage/repair broken/cracked horn handle, use a (machine) epoxy to fill up the crack . finalizing polishing work to mirror image (almost). Looking for a new Sheath or make one. Checking ACC.
Use a lot of Mineral Oil... both on the blade and Handle. Good result. I really like this new thing...I learned a lot about khukr and other blades. I also sharpen my khukri myself. I'm getting better but I still have a lot to learn.
Maybe another week will be posting images.
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I see you Have been busy....
In reference to your use of Mineral oil, Here is a video you may want to watch about keeping rust off of your blades.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O7ZThs1y8xs
I sort of surprised me. I thought wax or rust prep would certainly win.
Dave
Ren wax is used by museums to protect metal from oxidation.
It also wins for keeping blued steel guns from rusting.
I've been using mineral oil and ballistol on my HI knives.
I've used wax and 3 in 1 oil on blued CC handguns and they didn't rust, even though I sweat heavily in hot weather and my sweat is especially corrosive.
I used Rem Oil on a gun once and it was junk. The gun never got carried, nor did it even go outside and it rusted in fairly short order.
I think the problem with mineral oil is that its thickness makes it harder to get a thin, even coat.
It also wins for keeping blued steel guns from rusting.
I've been using mineral oil and ballistol on my HI knives.
I've used wax and 3 in 1 oil on blued CC handguns and they didn't rust, even though I sweat heavily in hot weather and my sweat is especially corrosive.
I used Rem Oil on a gun once and it was junk. The gun never got carried, nor did it even go outside and it rusted in fairly short order.
I think the problem with mineral oil is that its thickness makes it harder to get a thin, even coat.
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- Joined
- Aug 17, 2003
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i love the smell of ballistol in the morning. 
you either love it or hate it. reminds me of ouzo. in any case, the smell does go away after a few days...
the american version has a slightly different formulation than the original german version available to us in the EU which is considered safe for use on food processing equipment unlike the majority of the CLIP oils, not sure why the US version is different. corrosionx doesn't look like it is food safe. that's not a problem with firearms, but for knives that may contact food, veg, fish, and meat/game (or cut yourself accidentally) i'd err on the side of caution. also, unlike the others it works nicely on wood & leather.
you either love it or hate it. reminds me of ouzo. in any case, the smell does go away after a few days...
the american version has a slightly different formulation than the original german version available to us in the EU which is considered safe for use on food processing equipment unlike the majority of the CLIP oils, not sure why the US version is different. corrosionx doesn't look like it is food safe. that's not a problem with firearms, but for knives that may contact food, veg, fish, and meat/game (or cut yourself accidentally) i'd err on the side of caution. also, unlike the others it works nicely on wood & leather.
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- Jun 24, 2013
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Silly me. Being accustomed to the German version I never suspected the American version can not be used to make my fries. That explains the bain damage.i love the smell of ballistol in the morning.
you either love it or hate it. reminds me of ouzo. in any case, the smell does go away after a few days...
the american version has a slightly different formulation than the original german version available to us in the EU which is considered safe for use on food processing equipment unlike the majority of the CLIP oils, not sure why the US version is different. corrosionx doesn't look like it is food safe. that's not a problem with firearms, but for knives that may contact food, veg, fish, and meat/game (or cut yourself accidentally) i'd err on the side of caution. also, unlike the others it works nicely on wood & leather.
Are you sure it's different or is it the same and they are just saying it's not for consumption because of different US laws? Might be similar to castor oil which isn't for cooking in the US but everybody still uses it
And yes that stuff smells great.
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as far as i know, the differences are minor. US ballistol is still food safe. EU ballistol also comes in a few medical (veterinary) versions designed for internal use or topical application.
there is also an odourless food gradeversion for those that don't like the smell.
there is also an odourless food gradeversion for those that don't like the smell.
- Joined
- Mar 26, 2009
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I feel like the US Ballistol warnings are more liability related (or California "this thing contains lead even though it doesn't" related-I don't use it on anything food related because of the smell, but I've cut myself pretty good with it on the blade and i seem to have made it.
Around here if you use it on firearms you have to strip it from any moving parts before winter or it'll gum up solid in the cold.
That KLVUK is gorgeous btw.
Around here if you use it on firearms you have to strip it from any moving parts before winter or it'll gum up solid in the cold.
That KLVUK is gorgeous btw.
I would love to get a leather sheath for this thing but I am having trouble contacting the craftsmen listed in the forum stickies.
Anyone have better contact information or know of anyone who may be able to make a nice leather one like "wildmanh" has shown in the thread?
I like the rings on the side because I want to carry it on a sling.
Thanks, Dave
Anyone have better contact information or know of anyone who may be able to make a nice leather one like "wildmanh" has shown in the thread?
I like the rings on the side because I want to carry it on a sling.
Thanks, Dave
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note that they make an odourless version for those who do not like the smell. i am not sure why the germans put the anisey stuff in in the first place.
the germans developed it for european conditions, not arctic (or vermont/russian winters
) if you use it on a folding knife (or gun) & it freezes outside, use a dry lube instead. i never had a problem on kodiak with my guns in winter, but i did wipe off any excess lube while i was inside before i went outside hunting in the snow. seem to recall using a ptfe dry spray lube.
didn't need to worry up off point barrow at 40 or 50 below either. didn't leave my nice warm engine room.
only the deckies were silly enough to go outside then. i DID go out once in my short sleeve shirt to watch the deckies playing football on the ice at 40 below in THEIR shirtsleeves. it was a very sunny and completely windless day & we stopped just for the heck of it. were told if there was any wind we'd need to get indoors quick or we'd turn into instant popsicles. i was hoping we'd see a nice polar bear for the deck crew to play with, but one didn't show up. i went in after a couple of minutes as i was not generating the same body heat they were while running around. if i recall one of the deckie seaman apprentices got tricked into licking a hand rail. it did not turn out well. took a big kettle of hot water to warm it enough to release his tongue and he lost a bit of it to mr. frosty.
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