SideKick in O1 and redwood burl

james terrio

james terrio

Sharpest Knife in the Light Socket
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Apr 15, 2010
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Here's one of my most basic models, this time made from Starret O1 tool steel and redwood burl, with a gently tapered tang and full flat grind. HT'ed to 58Rc by Brad at Peters' Heat-treating. Hand-satin finish on the steel, hand-rubbed Danish oil finish on the wood. Stainless Corbys and a handmade leather sheath hold it all together. Thanks for looking, your comments and critiques are welcome!
 

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Nicely done, James. I love that redwood and the dip in the handle just before the blade.

-Daizee
 
That is a great looking knife! O1 is my favorite steel to work with so far. The redwood looks awesome!!

How many coats of Danish Oil did you rub in? I have been wanting to try Danish oil on a knife.
 
Thank you for the kind words, gentlemen. BushMonkey mentioned clean lines, to me that is a very high compliment and I appreciate it! :)

melsdad said:
How many coats of Danish Oil did you rub in? I have been wanting to try Danish oil on a knife.
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I honestly don't know, probably around a dozen. It takes a couple-three days or more to get it all in there, depending on the wood of course. The first 3-4 applications soak in pretty quickly, when they are just about dry to the touch I clean off the wood with 0000 steel wool. Wipe off any oil/metal residue and repeat. I do take the wood to its final dimensions and sand to 400 grit before oiling. At the last stage of sanding I lightly moisten the wood, let it dry then sand lightly again, repeating this until the grain no longer raises. This is a furniture maker's "trick" that helps you get a silky smooth surface.

After that it's a matter of just wiping a little more oil on and going after it gently with steel wool again, until the wood just doesn't want to absorb anymore. The last couple times I don't even use steel wool, I just burnish with denim or heavy cotton material. Danish oil is available with varying amounts of stain in it, but I always use the clear kind, it shows the original color best. You end up with a finish that's very smooth and warm to the touch, shows off the natural grain and figure, and resists dirt and water fairly well. When it gets yucky you can freshen it up with 0000 steel wool and a few drops of Danish oil (or lemon oil, tung oil, any natural oil you have on hand in a pinch.)

None of this is absolutely necessary, you could just sand to 220, slap on a couple coats of oil and buff it off, most woods will look pretty decent that way. But I feel the extra attention is worth it to get the nice feel and help insure the wood is fully sealed.

Hand-rubbed oil finishes are generally not super glossy, and are not THE most durable finish available. As with "simple" carbon steels, I liken them to Grandpa's old deer rifle... if given a moderate amount of care and used with common sense, it can be passed on for generations :thumbup:

Thanks for the questions, and don't be shy. I'm happy to share what I do know and I will likely learn more in the process!
 
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Thank you for your answer James! I have used Tung oil, and boiled linseed oil on several knives in the past. The method I used is identical to what you do. Raise the grain and cut with 0000 steel wool and repeat till the hairs stop riseing. When I used the B.L.O. the first few coats I mixed up a small batch that was cut 50/50 with mineral spirits, and B.L.O. This really penetrated nicely for the first coats. I may have to get some danish oil and try it on the knife I am working on now. The scales are natural mahogany, and I was after a hand rubbed finish.
 
You're very welcome. "Danish" oil is simply a blend (including tung oil) with some stuff in it to help it penetrate and harden up. If you like regular tung oil, I think you will like Danish oil too. I use Watco brand, but there are others.
 
Beautiful. I like the finish and color of the steel. Is that just a result of the hand satin finish and nothing else?

(I'm going to try to make a knife soon, and am gathering ideas.)

Much obliged.
 
leozinho said:
Beautiful. I like the finish and color of the steel. Is that just a result of the hand satin finish and nothing else?
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Yes it is, the steel is not coated or colored in any way. This particular knife is hand-sanded to 1000 grit. It's actually more reflective than the pics show at certain angles, but is not mirror-polished or buffed.

O1 is my carbon steel of choice because it has just a touch of alloying elements in it that help it keep a nice fine grain that allows for a pretty tough blade that can take a really keen, crisp thin edge. It cuts extremely well and is easy to hone. These same attributes also make it easy to finish to any degree you desire, and it has a beautiful look to it.

Thanks for your interest!
 
That's a very high compliment in my book, Mike. I appreciate it :)
 
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