Silicone adhesive

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Steven F

Joined
Oct 12, 1999
Messages
1,237
I've got to replace the brass tips on a couple of sheaths and thought I'd try using silicone adhesive instead of the epoxy I've used in the past. The epoxy worked well enough, but I thought using silicone might simplify the process since it's not a two-part process like epoxy is. But, before using the silicone I thought I'd better check with my fellow forumites.

Has anyone encounted any kind of problem using silicone adhesives? Thanks in advance for your input.
 
I would still go with the epoxy. Most of then come in a two part syringe so in all reality it is not that difficult. The major problem with the Si adhesives is they are a "softer" bond. I feel they are more prone to failure. Si can be much more debris sensitive. If you do decide to use it make very sure that the surfaces to be bonded are clean.

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Nothing says love quite like a sharp knife... Now if my wife only believed that.
 
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Stick with the epoxy. The silicone does strange things when used in similar applications. It doesn't withstand vibration that well.

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>>>>---¥vsa---->®

If you mix milk of magnesia with vodka and orange juice do you get a phillips screwdriver?

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One guy told me to use barge cement to glue the kraton slabs back onto my SOG Tomcat folder. Any leatherworkers out there familiar with it?

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Rusty is that the rubber cement? I have used Tandy's brand but now that they're catalog I will have to find another source locally.
I used it to glue wallets and the like together before laceing.

If it's the rubber cement it would be alright for kraton.
I have a glue called Weldbond that looks iike Elmers, but holds everything.


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>>>>---¥vsa---->®

If you mix milk of magnesia with vodka and orange juice do you get a phillips screwdriver?

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I never saw it. Besides, the Tomcat got carried for maybe five years, the diamonds on the kraton are shot, and the knife deserves better, but the guy didn't want to do something more difficult than usual. He told me why it couldn't be done. Maybe someone who hadn't run a Bridgeport for five years woulda believed him.

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Thanks, guys, for the feedback. It's pretty obvious that I just need to stick with epoxy (I couldn't resist that little play on words).

[This message has been edited by Steven F (edited 02-01-2000).]
 
Steven F.,

I've used Barge Cement to glue on felt soles on to a pair of waders once - worked relatively well. Felt never came off, but on the section that was curved/flexed a lot, it did seperate. The tube came with the felt sole repair kit. I have to mention the hip waders had lugged solds and I sanded the bottom to accept the felt.

3M makes a great adhesive designed for glueing trim/molding to the exterior of a car. Red and white tube - not recall the numbers on the tube.
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This stuff was AWESOME - I have to locate some. If you can find some of this it would be ideal. The tube was large - guessing about 8 oz. I had a tube and used it until it hardened up on its own. If I can locate some I can send you the part numbers off of it.

The bond between two materials using epoxy is strongest when the surfaces have full contact, AND the layer of epoxy is THIN. If you were to cast a piece of epoxy into a bar and try to snap it, it breaks very easily since it brittle and has no shear strength. If you add a filler to the same bar (fiberglass powder for example) that will add more shear strength. Of course too much filler is bad as well. We glue up large blocks of urethane model plank here and we use Devcon 5 minute epoxy. We try to get the glue joint down to < 0.75mm/0.03".

I haven't have a brass cap come off yet, so I am lucky.
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My two cents worth
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Ray 'md2020'
 
Ray, when you get a new tube, send us label info. Will be most appreciated.

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I found another old tube!
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3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive

part # (051135)-08001, or reorder # 08001

5 fl. oz tube, red and white lettering

Use in well ventilated area - wipe both surfaces with denatured alcohol before applying. Thin coat is all you need.
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Ray 'md2020'
 
BTTT - sorry guys, this way Rusty gets to read it, and some of you can try locating some of the adhesive for yourselves.

Any reputable automotive store should sell it.
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Ray 'md2020'
 
Thanks for the suggestion, Ray. I bought some of the 3M adhesive you mentioned but I haven't had a chance to try it out yet. I'll let you know how it works. I think it's amazing that you've never had a tip come off. Maybe I'm just jinxed, but at least half of my khuks have had the tips come off.

[This message has been edited by Steven F (edited 02-04-2000).]
 
Silicone comes in many forms. RTV, is a high strength silicone and is used in the Automotive Industry. It has more then enough to keep the tip on the sheath a then some. Felpro sells it for gasket replacement and can be used in bonding situations. CAulking silicones will not produce good results. Epoxy may have trouble giving you a good bond with leather to metal. You may want to make some small cuts in the leather to let the epoxy bond to the wood, rather then the leather. Sika Flex is a commercial product, a bonding polyeurethane. The yield in Sika is about 8-900 psi. 3M 5200 is used to bond boat decks to hulls. The yield is about 1200 psi, but takes about 72hours to set. Sika flex comes in a 20 minute set #241, or a long set # 231. All good products for most materials.I think if I ever lose a handle, I will fill the void with Sika Flex, and reset the but cap, and never worry again.

Floyd
 
Have some Liquid Nail hardening. Replaced the short shaft on the Cold Steel assegai with a hickory shaft, but decided to finish the shortened butt by pinning the bottom part of a CS Bad Axe handle to it. Drilled both out and inserted 1/4 threaded bolt 5 1/2" long and used the liquid nail. Suspect it isn't nearly up to epoxy, but it was cheap and so was the assegai. Also used it to fill the indented side of the spearhead - will see if it can be shaped after hardening.



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