Silicone Oil

Joined
Mar 27, 2010
Messages
4,993
Dear All,

I noticed some rust on the surfaces of the blade.
After reading some feedbacks from the forum, i went on to wipe the grease clean with a paper towel, use a grit paper to sand it off gently, and then apply a layer of fruit enzymes (some use vinegar) for cleaning and finally a coating of silicone oil on it.

Questions:
Am i missing /making a mistake(s) already?
I also heard beeswax is good to prevent rust and give you that luster on metal.

Correct me if i'm wrong.

Many Thanks

Jay
 
I usually use Mineral oil on all my blades and handles. To clean them I use Mineral spirits. It works great and is very inexpensive. From reading on the forum using vinegar will actually etch the blade some, showing the temper lines and such. (please correct me if im wrong).
 
hi
bees wax or carnuba wax for bone handles hooflex or baby oil for horn handles linseed oil for wood handles and any decent mineral oil or renaicence wax for the steel blade or steel fittings no vinegar on the blade ever unless your etching the steel hope this helps
mick
 
This is a real noob question. I keep reading about mineral oil. Where do I buy that and is baby oil the same thing?

:confused:
 
This is a real noob question. I keep reading about mineral oil. Where do I buy that and is baby oil the same thing?

:confused:

Baby oil IS the same thing as mineral oil:) It just has all the perfumes and stuff in it. I generally use the store brand stuff that is lighter in smell, and it works great:)
 
Mineral oil available at the pharmacy, probably in the laxative aisle. I'm using pure neetsfoot on handles, both horn and wood fwiw.
 
Questions:
Am i missing /making a mistake(s) already?

I also heard beeswax is good to prevent rust and give you that luster on metal.

Correct me if i'm wrong.

Many Thanks

Jay


Osiyo Jay, and Welcome to The HI Bunch!:thumbup: :D :cool:
As far as cleaning and maybe etching your blade a bit with the fruit enzymes and then using the silicone oil on it you did good. :D
The helluvit is silicone oil is kinda spendy to be using on a khuk when mineral oil will work just as well.
Back when I had a bit of extra money coming in I could play with I tried lots of things including food grade silicone oil but of everything I ever tried I liked Ballistol the best because it could be used on the whole rig!:thumbup: :cool:
However good ol' mineral oil works just fine and is cheap, easy to find, obtain, and baby oil which is the same thing can be used in a pinch; just might make your sam'ich taste of baby though..... ;)

I'm of the opinion that beeswax alone wouldn't be the best thing to use on steel I didn't want to rust, but most people have never seen, "Real Beeswax," as the real stuff dries out real hard and stiff. What most folks are familiar with is a beeswax and paraffin mix.
Personally the older I get the more and more I like the K.I.S.S. principle which equates to Keep It Simple Stupid, Not Implying Anyone Here Is Stupid because if anyone was I'd be first in line. :o :p :D

`
 
Since I'm a gun collector, I normally use gun oil of one sort or another on my knives. I usually have several spray cans of RemOil around the house and it makes an excellent general use cleaner. For a regular use knife, that would probably be all I would use. But Remington recently introduced a new product with some serious potential. You can get it in a finger pump bottle at Wal-Mart. RemOil with "Moisture Guard" (VCI). This stuff has the strangest scent but it is recommended for guns that will be put in a safe and stored. So if I clean a gun that I'm not likely to actually use again for six months or so, I'll squirt some of this stuff on it right before I put in in the safe. It makes a protective cloud inside the gun barrel and other internal parts and you don't have any rust issues.

Well worth trying and not so rare that you have to order it from a specialty shop.

Gregg
 
I've used spray silicone oil on the big choppers plenty of times. I don't have any rust problens but then I'm in SoCal. On blades I use on food I usually just make sure they're clean and dry. Normal kitchen use will eventually give them a nice patina.

Frank
 
carnuba wax is used in many metal polishes and is the basis for automotive polishes as well. Good for working blades and display blades as well.

I've used flitz and a paste from United Cutlery that is fine chromium oxide mixed with carnuba. seems to do well for anything that will rust.
 
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