Silk purse out of a sow`s ear? Maybe not

[scfishr]

I recently purchased a like new condition RTAK, 10" blade.

I have read the reviews, and instead of giving up all hope, I am going to try to have some fun with this knife.

Because I have a med/large hand I will start with the handle, my thought is to remove enough material in the front and rear to have a similiar raised area as on a becker, just not as pronounced. I am not a scientist, but my hopes are when I get done it will have an even more weight forward feel.

Next, "the flimsy blade". I was thinking and please jump in where you see fit, that I would remove the existing edge completely, (cautiously) so not to kill the heat treat, maybe with a file. And then start over putting a whole new edge.

I have been using a belt sander a lot lately(practiced) on cheap knives for a while and some 1/8 stock. Have actually gotten pretty good at it. I raised the bevel on my Camp Tramp last night to the same symetrical grind that came back on m,y Busse NOE, or atleast very close. Most would not be able to tell the difference.

The purpose of this thread is to

a) find out if anyone else has already made any of these mod`s

b) hopefully inspire others to have some fun with their knives. I`ve read where several who own these are already extremely satisfied.

I will post when I have something worth showing(hopes up high)


Another thing, why the hell make a knife only for people with big hands, how many of the population did you just eliminate as customers?

 

[Cliff Stamp]

I would remove the existing edge completely...

That is the main problem, thicken it up to 0.025 for chopping soft to medium woods, 0.030-0.035 for harder or frozen woods or batoning soft to medium woods. For batoning hard/frozen woods, 0.035-0.045". R&D is needed here, depends on skill and strength, but these are rough guidelines to start. You can go thinner on high quality and harder steels, but Ontario leaves their 1095 soft which weakens it, but the QC can be spotty so you leave more metal there to compensate.

-Cliff

 

[Ebbtide]

Another thing, why the hell make a knife only for people with big hands, how many of the population did you just eliminate as customers?

I guess that's because it is easier to remove material than to add it on.


Which RTAK is it?
Ontario or Livesay's?

I'm working up the courage to attack the handle on my Martindale Golok.
The only thing holding me back is the mess in my garage

 

[scfishr]

Thanks Cliff,

I do not want to get completely away from the knives intended purpose.

I have decided to use it first and experiment to see if I want to change the edge thickness at all. Thanks alot for the edge recommendations.

I was thinking in the .025 range, starting small, testing, and then ease into what works for me.

Seems to be a "love it" or "hate knife".

I guess what I was thinking on the handle is why nor two sized handles? or even more.

For me you are right, being oversized means I get to make it fit my hand, something a knife maker would have to charge a lot for.

By the way its the Ontario

 

[Ebbtide]

I haven't seen the Ontario up close.
The Livesay has some big handle scales too.
Good luck with it.

 

[scfishr]

The RTAK came in,

And it was a lot of knife. The first thing I did was to take it out and use it.

Went to work on a fig tree, no sweat, deep penetration.

then on to some pine and oak sapplings, no sweat, but the thin edge started being a little more noticeable, and the handle was screaming for attention.

Then on to a dry small oak,very hard. I intentionally laid into this tree very hard(I`m 6` 3") 285lb, I wanted to see what kind of damage would occur.

The truth is, even under a 10x loupe, there was no damage to speak of.

So I went to work on the handle, removed a fair amount of material, did a lot of smoothing and contouring

Then removed the edge completely. Started over.

Ended up with an edge thickness of a pretty consistant .035, the variation being a slight thinning in the middle of the 10" blade. Not a problem for me.

After going back out, this knife, to me, has a significantly more substantial feel, and is a good chopper. I went back to the dried oak, and a some dead branched on the fig, along with some pine.

This time, I really did some swinging. Some with the wrist, some half swings, and some full on swinging chops. Came back and looked with the loupe. There were no visble signs of damage, nicks, cracks, dents or rolling of the edge.

I have a Husqvarna chain saw(55 rancher), I avoid knots when I can. In a survival situation, to preserve my tool, this knife--I would avoid knots at all cost. Not sure that I understand the use of knots to measure the ability of any knife(survival or otherwise). Other than for maybe "bragging rights".


I bought this knife at a used price, it was not used, but does not have a sheath. It is in my mind a keeper that I feel will serve me for years to come.

The mod`s took me a tad over an hour, no sweat, because I love to tinker and make better.

No doubt that there are those that purchased this knife and would not change a thing.


I`m not trying to be an expert, actually just the opposite, I`m new to knife collecting(couple of years) and am not biased toward any maker(well maybe a few). This is basically for the "new guy or gal" on a budget, looking to get the most "bang for the buck". I think the RTAK is a lot of bang for the buck.

I can tell you that I recently aquired a Busse battle mistress, a basic 9 and a groovemaster, I love these knives.But I have no intention of comparing them to my little 89.00(cost if purchased new)_ machete. Not apples to apples

They(ontario) make a 12" machete, available for around 20.00 shipped that I think I`m going to have to try now.

Have fun with your knives and keep them sharp

 

[Cliff Stamp]

Not sure that I understand the use of knots to measure the ability of any knife(survival or otherwise).

Some wood can be very knotty, black spruce around here gets rings knots is such high clumps that you can't get more than 4" of clear wood without hitting a section of knots.

The problem with the RTAK isn't the actual knife but the QC from ontario. 0.035 should be a very durable and functional edge, however they also dip down to under 0.020" and then they ripple quite readily.

-Cliff

 

[scfishr]

Cliff,

thanks for the clarification on the wood being chopped. It helps me to understand your concerns.

I feel that I have purchased a pretty good specimen. Edge thickness, slight variation, approx. .005 tir. The edge held up under fire, and the handle(for my med/large hands)now that I`ve removed some material, is really quite comfortable( no noticeable hot spots).

Heat treat seems to be consistant, nice ring to the blade steel.Since this ones a keeper I`m not going to do any testing for catastrophic failure, and this one is, for me, a worker, not a survival knife, atleast , not yet

 

[Cliff Stamp]

Ontario can turn out good steel, the problem is that based on what I have seen it isn't consistent from one knife to the next.

-Cliff

 

[scfishr]

Just wanted to update my experience with the RTAK.

Today I went out and found an approx. 3 1/2" dia dead red oak.

Hot dog, this will test the best of them, I thought to myself.

I laid into it with the RTAK, chips were flying, oh happy days.

So I went in to the house to get my BME, assymetrical edge, factory fresh.

To my surprize the BME would not penetrate, and all but bounced off.

Am I going to throw away my BME? No, its still a nuclear pry bar, holds value and for tight quarters, limbing in tight quarters etc, it still handles better.

But today, On a dead red oak, my Busse Battle Mistress got smoked .