Silly Question

L

Lucky Bob

Joined
Mar 31, 2006
Messages
956
Hopefully with a non-silly answer. I'm trying to take apart my ZPD Leek for maintenance, and I can't get the main pivot-screw to come out. The stud on the opposite side from the screw freely rotates, even when I apply finger-pressure to it. The damnedest part is that when I use my rubber-ish rust eraser (HIGHLY recommended to clean up a Sharpmaker) to hold the rear stud in place, although I have no tactile feedback and thus can't be sure, it doesn't look like it's rotating... and yet the screw won't actually come out.

Any of you knife wizzes got a suggestion or two?
 
Is there enough space between the pivot and the scale to place some sort of shim? Can you set the knife down on a surface that contacts the pivot and press down real hard on the other side with your torx driver?
 
I just put the blade in a bind. With it open, wedge the blade in a slot of some kind. I use an end table drawer. (note, I'm unmarried:D :thumbup: :) ;) )
 
I tried rubber cementing the non-screw side of the pivot, but it wasn't nearly strong enough. So, in what I might come to regret, I superglued it. The pin certainly doesn't rotate now!
 
Lucky Bob said:
I tried rubber cementing the non-screw side of the pivot, but it wasn't nearly strong enough. So, in what I might come to regret, I superglued it. The pin certainly doesn't rotate now!
Click to expand...

I've done that same thing. It didn't hurt anything. You might be suprized to find out how easy is is to break the superglue's hold. I use (a tiny, tiny bit of) the gel type on the screws and pivots with no real problems. It will, however, build-up if used on the same screw more than a couple of times.
 
Oh, I used a liquid, and I ended up just coating the entire pivot (and a little bit of the surrounding titanium) with it by accident. I figured, just leave it there. Not like the side of the pivot needs to be able to move relative to the scales.
 
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