Silver Brazing Paste

N

Nodestar

Joined
May 16, 2007
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16
I was wondering what some of you guys with experience on the subject, might know about the best way to solder a flat thin peice of High Carbon Steel. To a flat thin peice of Copper. The surface area that needs to be bonded will be large.. probly around 7 square inches. So I've looked mostly into Soldering Paste. But these tend to melt at a high Temp.. normally around 1200 Degrees F. And I haven't quite got my mind around how I'm gona heat the paste without softening up the copper. If anyone had any suggestions or know of other ways to get the job done plz let me know.
 
"solder" is low temperature melting .In knife work typically a 95 Sn,5 Ag melting at about 400 F. "brazing" is a high temperature melting at 1100-1300 F.For large areas I would also tin with the solder first.
 
I build folders only and normally solder bolsters of damascus, copper, stainless, low carbon steel, nickel silver, brass, bronze,etc to the nickel silver or stainless liners. The key is to completely tin both surfaces, then clamp together and reheat. It works every time. No titanium however. I guess..just like Mete said.:rolleyes:
 
Pops has silver solder paste that might work well for this. Give him a call and talk with him about it.

-d
 
Thanks for the reply's. Could someone explain "tinning" to me. Also I had only originally chosen a high temp melting solder because I thought it would have more strength then the low melting temp solders. Do they have equal Strength?
What would you guys think would be the best way to go about heating the Solder when "Tinning"?
 
I tin like this... clean or sand the pcs thoroughly...apply flux and be sure it completely covers pc...put pc of solder on pc while pc is held flat or level...heat pc from opposite side of solder ..you will see flux bubble and steam a bit..easy now..not too hot..solder liquifies and I spread the solder with a solder brush..a sheetmetal handled horse hair brush that I buy from harbour freight for ..say..10 cents per. Try to get the solder to completely cover the area that will be permanantly soldered. Do this to both pcs, tinned side to tinned side, clamp lightly and reheat. Works most every time. Do not overheat. Overheated shows by brown or black flux. I also flux the tinned pcs before clamping together.
 
Once the two Pieces are tinned and clamped togeather.. how do you reheat the solder? I'm working with two flat pieces that have some surface area to them.. I'm thinking I might have some trouble reaching the middle sections with any direct heat.
 
Just lightly heat from both sides. Most of these metals I mentioned retain heat very well while you heat up both surfaces. All of a sudden you will notice the solder melting(happens very quickly) they mate up closely and ..voila..you are finished. Let cool, unclamp and inspect joint. If they fir before tinning, they will fir now. Remember, just enought heat to melt solder. No more.

Good luck
 
And one last question about the Strength.. will it be strong enough. To help imagine what kinda stresses it will be under. The copper will be a thin plate.. around 1/8 thickness. Soldered to a 1 1/4 thick Axe Head. It won't be near the edge. And should never come into contact with anything the Axe will be cutting. But it will still feel the rebound of the Axe head chopping away.
 
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