Simple Handle?

[schofer]

Hi,

The wood handle of my 8" full-tang Henckels chef's knife is ailing. The wood has cracked & warped from years of use/abuse and two of 3 rivets are gone.

Any advice for a easy/simple handle replacement? Given the use in the kitchen, I need something more than cord wrap. But, I'm hoping there's some other easy solution.

(I've searched, and mostly I found info on making beautiful/elaborate wood handles... and I just want something quick/utilitarian. I don't have time to invest in a major project right now. Though I guess I'm not averse to learning in the future... someday I hope to get a Spyderco Mule... and make a nice handle for it.)

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

schofer

 

[Bill DeShivs]

Go to one of the knifmaker's supply sites, and buy 2 slabs of Kingwood. Kingwood is used on many of the older kitchen knives. Get a set of "cutler's rivets" also. Lay out one slab and drill it for the rivets, then countersink the holes. Using that slab as a template, drill the other and countersink it. With the riviets in place on one slab, place it on the knife tang and trace the tang on the slab. Repeat with the other slab. Use a coping saw to cut to your marked line. Install the slabs and hammer the rivets together. Then it is a simple matter of filing the handles to shape, and sanding them.

 

[firebert]

Wow, I've never seen kingwood on a commercial kitchen knife. I made a knife for my mother with nice quartersawn kingwood. It works very well as a kitchen handle.

Making a wood handle is not difficult. I replaced the handle on an old henckels with some cocobolo. It worked pretty well. The hardest part was getting the old handle off.

I go with an epoxy/pin approach. There are many ways to fasten handles. Just pick the way you prefer.

There are many suitable handle woods. Most rosewoods (kingwood, blackwood, cocobolo, and so on), desert ironwood, and osage orage (I have a hundred year old cleaver handle that still looks new), are all suitable, as are many others.

Knife blanks can be expensive. If you have a lumberyard nearby specializing in exotics, you can often get a good deal on scraps big enough for handles.

Phillip

 

[schofer]

Thanks for all the advice!

With a little research I've learned that I can spend WAY more on new wood scales than I paid for my chef's knife in the first place!

I think I'll take Phillip's advice and try to hunt down some scraps.

 

[cj65]

Hey there Schofer!
I have some aged wood, it is oak. It came off of those wood benches you buy at garden centers. It appears really light in color once the grey old stuff is sanded off. I am going to use it for my first efforts of re handling a US Navy Mark 1 Robeson. I have no idea if this is good wood or not. I know that oak is dense, hard and strong. The straight pieces are 2.5" wide and once sanded just barely over .5" fat. If you are interested, please tell me how long to cut the slabs, and I will even pay for shipping. No strings, just promise to post some how to and finished pictures, that is all. Send me an email or pm with address, and I will ship them snail mail. Just an offer from a garage tinkerer with too much valuable junk!
God bless,
CJ

 

[DutchV]

If you're in a hurry, you can use PlastiDip. It's designed for coating tool handles. A couple of coats would probably do it.

 

[schofer]

cj65 -- Wow, what a nice gesture. I've gotta say, people on this forum are the greatest. Turns out I just got some hardwood scraps from a friend, so I think I'm covered. But, your kind offer is much appreciated.

DutchV -- Hmmm... Plasti-dip sounds _really_ easy. I might try that first, just to see if it does the trick, before making wood scales. I'm definitely going to make scales for it eventually (as practice for when I get a Spyderco Mule).

But, I'm really busy at the moment so I may try plasti-dip for now. (That gets me thinking... would Bondo work? But, I guess that would be a pain to remove down the line...)

Again, many thanks for all the help.

schofer