Simple startup for throwing knives

[bluealchemy]

Hello everyone,

First, I am new here and want to say hello!

Second. Zero experience with knife making. A lot of woodworking and soft metal working experience, but no foundry/tooling experience.

Next, I have been throwing knives (hobby only) for a number of years and have had cold steel, flying steel, and some more pricy brands.

I have some designs that I would like to start making for myself to test. I have a lot of woodworking tools, but only hand tools for matching.

What would you suggest to get started? I am thinking 440c steel to start. I need something that can take moderate abuse. I have read some posts on laser and waterjet as an option for the initial profiling, but also a lot of thoughts on hacksaw/bandsaw to get started. Probably hand grinding to start or possibly something else?

Basically I have a lot to learn and am just looking for some guidance on heading down this path.

I appreciate any advice you may have.

Bob

 

[DeadboxHero]

Hello everyone,

First, I am new here and want to say hello!

Second. Zero experience with knife making. A lot of woodworking and soft metal working experience, but no foundry/tooling experience.

Next, I have been throwing knives (hobby only) for a number of years and have had cold steel, flying steel, and some more pricy brands.

I have some designs that I would like to start making for myself to test. I have a lot of woodworking tools, but only hand tools for matching.

What would you suggest to get started? I am thinking 440c steel to start. I need something that can take moderate abuse. I have read some posts on laser and waterjet as an option for the initial profiling, but also a lot of thoughts on hacksaw/bandsaw to get started. Probably hand grinding to start or possibly something else?

Basically I have a lot to learn and am just looking for some guidance on heading down this path.

I appreciate any advice you may have.

Bob

Bob, 440C would not be a good choice for that application, it is also significantly more expensive than better choices.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Welcome bluealchemy.
Fill out your location in your profile so we know where you live. It helps with answers.

Bladeforums has a Throwing Knife sub forum. You should check there, too.

Throwing Knives & Knife Throwing

Hosted by Bobby Branton, of The American Knife Throwers Alliance. All aspects of throwing discussed!

www.bladeforums.com

As for steel, pretty much any steel works for throwers. Most throwers are not very hard, so toughness is the main attribute for steel choice.
Simple carbon steel is probably the best choice.
1075 is about perfect. Other carbon steel choices are 5160 and 80CrV.
If you want stainless, 3Cr13 is a good choice. 420, 440A , 440C are also common thrower steels. 154-CM and AEB-L should also work fine.

Waterjet cutting is a good idea for making throwers. It makes all the blanks identical in shape and weight. Having a dozen blanks cut out greatly lowers the number of tools needed. For throwers you can finish the blanks with files and sandpaper. If using carbon steel, you can harden the tips with a torch and temper them in the kitchen oven. Stainless throwers can be left unhardened. Edges are a waste of time on throwers. All you need to do is file the last inch of the blank at around 45° and have it meet at the tip. With use you can occasionally touch up the tip as needed on a stone or with a file.

Many/most waterjet places can provide the steel and cutting for ordinary steels like 440C. This saves you time and shipping costs. Check out NJSB.

 

[Lorien]

I only used a hacksaw and files for my first several knives, and I'd recommend doing that to anyone starting out. For throwing knives, an old bed frame or any kind of mild steel close to the dimensions you want would be a solid choice- super cheap/free material, easy to work, same basic characteristics as any hardenable steel for the purpose of testing your designs.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

If he wants to make only one knife, that works fine. If he plans on making several, waterjet may be wiser. A lot depends on if it will be a one off or he wants sets of six blades ( I use that number for thrower sets I make). Balance and repeatability of throw require accurate and equal dimensions. A lot depends on where and how he will be throwing. If his designs have lots of curves and holes, cutting and filing by hand may quite a chore with no power grinding tools.

Not knowing where he lives makes it a bit harder to answer. If he was in the US, or local to a smith somewhere, he might get an offer of free steel or a free blank he can file on. I have cut out a person's template/drawing and sent the blank back for them to finish many times.

If he is seriously going to make a lot of throwing knives, I recommend him setting up a port-a-band on a simple SWAG table type setup and cutting blanks from barstock. Final shaping can be done with files or a Harbor Freight simple bench grinder.

 

[Hengelo_77]

Nobody makes only one knife.
An angle grinder doesn't have to be expensive and always comes in handy in non-knife projects as well.
An angle grinder, some files and sandpaper should get you started

 

[bluealchemy]

Welcome bluealchemy.
Fill out your location in your profile so we know where you live. It helps with answers.

Bladeforums has a Throwing Knife sub forum. You should check there, too.

Throwing Knives & Knife Throwing

Hosted by Bobby Branton, of The American Knife Throwers Alliance. All aspects of throwing discussed!

www.bladeforums.com

As for steel, pretty much any steel works for throwers. Most throwers are not very hard, so toughness is the main attribute for steel choice.
Simple carbon steel is probably the best choice.
1075 is about perfect. Other carbon steel choices are 5160 and 80CrV.
If you want stainless, 3Cr13 is a good choice. 420, 440A , 440C are also common thrower steels. 154-CM and AEB-L should also work fine.

Waterjet cutting is a good idea for making throwers. It makes all the blanks identical in shape and weight. Having a dozen blanks cut out greatly lowers the number of tools needed. For throwers you can finish the blanks with files and sandpaper. If using carbon steel, you can harden the tips with a torch and temper them in the kitchen oven. Stainless throwers can be left unhardened. Edges are a waste of time on throwers. All you need to do is file the last inch of the blank at around 45° and have it meet at the tip. With use you can occasionally touch up the tip as needed on a stone or with a file.

Many/most waterjet places can provide the steel and cutting for ordinary steels like 440C. This saves you time and shipping costs. Check out NJSB.

Thanks for the details in your reply. I'm located in the Northern Virginia/DC area. I haven't found a local waterjet cutter yet, but would like to find one if I get to the point of creating sets of a design. Probably will get there sooner rather than later so I am searching for someone relatively close by to work with for the cutting. I'll check out NJSB if there isn't anyone closer.

Good point on the edge, no need for a lot of focus there, just sharp enough points.

Trying to keep it simple to start so I appreciate the practical approach.

 

[bluealchemy]

Nobody makes only one knife.
An angle grinder doesn't have to be expensive and always comes in handy in non-knife projects as well.
An angle grinder, some files and sandpaper should get you started

Thanks for this. Have the angle grinder so just need some metal files next.

 

[Lorien]

If he wants to make only one knife, that works fine. If he plans on making several, waterjet may be wiser. A lot depends on if it will be a one off or he wants sets of six blades ( I use that number for thrower sets I make). Balance and repeatability of throw require accurate and equal dimensions. A lot depends on where and how he will be throwing. If his designs have lots of curves and holes, cutting and filing by hand may quite a chore with no power grinding tools.

Not knowing where he lives makes it a bit harder to answer. If he was in the US, or local to a smith somewhere, he might get an offer of free steel or a free blank he can file on. I have cut out a person's template/drawing and sent the blank back for them to finish many times.

If he is seriously going to make a lot of throwing knives, I recommend him setting up a port-a-band on a simple SWAG table type setup and cutting blanks from barstock. Final shaping can be done with files or a Harbor Freight simple bench grinder.

you got any pics of throwers you've made?

 

[JV Knives]

You would also likely need some good CAD skills to go the waterjet route or someone to do that for you. They operate typically from DXF.

 

[JoeBusic]

Angle grinder is the best novice tool. Draw your design in any vector app, print it out, stick to the steel, cut out the profile, grind to lines, grind the bevels, HT or not, play!
I would suggest 1060 and 420 as excellent starter steels. I use 420HC for throwers@59-60HRC. Stainless, strong and tough.

 

[bluealchemy]

You would also likely need some good CAD skills to go the waterjet route or someone to do that for you. They operate typically from DXF.

Thanks. I've done a good amount of cad design work, so I should be ok there, at least for the basic styles I have in mind.

 

[bluealchemy]

Angle grinder is the best novice tool. Draw your design in any vector app, print it out, stick to the steel, cut out the profile, grind to lines, grind the bevels, HT or not, play!
I would suggest 1060 and 420 as excellent starter steels. I use 420HC for throwers@59-60HRC. Stainless, strong and tough.

Sounds like a good plan to get started, then I can look at waterjet when I want to scale a little more.