Skeletonizing, patina and rust

T

TigFur

Joined
Oct 25, 2016
Messages
125
Hi,
if one were to skeletonize a knife to save weight and move the balance point
while using scales that are only attached with torx (no glue),
would it be possible that water somehow gets inside under the scales and gets trapped in the holes rusting the carbon knife heavily?

If so, what can one do to prevent it?
Its obvious to oil the blade before putting it together, not sure how long that lasts.
Does a patina help prevent the rust or does it help to start rust on spots that otherwise wouldnt be reached by it?
DLC coating or so is probably the best (and most expensive) option.

Thanks for your input,
Im just curious as i work on my design and wonder if this is a risk i should account for.
 
Cerakote would go a long way toward preventing problems in terms of rust but, I agree with Stacy that a stainless would be a better option. If the scales are removable, then maintenance should include removing the scales and drying things out, right?

Bob
 
I also agree that stainless is the way to go...

If you're set on carbon steel, DLC coating runs around 480 degrees (many other PVD coatings run much hotter), so be mindful of how that will affect the hardness of your blade. Or, use a tool steel that draws at a much higher temp, like M2 or M4.
 
TigFur said:
Hi,
if one were to skeletonize a knife to save weight and move the balance point
while using scales that are only attached with torx (no glue),
would it be possible that water somehow gets inside under the scales and gets trapped in the holes rusting the carbon knife heavily?

If so, what can one do to prevent it?
Its obvious to oil the blade before putting it together, not sure how long that lasts.
Does a patina help prevent the rust or does it help to start rust on spots that otherwise wouldnt be reached by it?
DLC coating or so is probably the best (and most expensive) option.

Thanks for your input,
Im just curious as i work on my design and wonder if this is a risk i should account for.
Click to expand...
Skeletonized part of tang you can replace with cork so no place for water , rest you can paint with paint for metal .I can t see any reason why paint for metal would not be good solution because it is under scale so no scratch ...nothing can affected ...............
On scale you can use some very thin layer of liquid rubber or automotive sealant to act as seal .....
 
Sam Dean said:
I also agree that stainless is the way to go...

If you're set on carbon steel, DLC coating runs around 480 degrees (many other PVD coatings run much hotter), so be mindful of how that will affect the hardness of your blade. Or, use a tool steel that draws at a much higher temp, like M2 or M4.
Click to expand...
Its more of an EDC scenario, i dont know of any knife that wouldnt touch water at some point at least for washing.
One doesnt want to remove the scales too often. Fitting the holes with epoxy or the likes would probably work but its an ugly solution :)
No words on patina yet?
 
A Patina will protect better than nothing but patinas are just rust that’s been controlled a little bit.

You can rust it lightly on purpose, then boil it for a few minutes to turn the red iron oxide into black oxide. It protects better.

That’s essentially how they did gun bluing back in the day...
 
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