Skinner/caper suggestion

[rodriguezryan14]

So I have a guide friend that wants some blades like this one. He spends a lot of time in the field, and he mainly works elk! Several a year. These guys like lightweight small knives. I made this one for me, and he wants a couple like it! This one is z-tuff at 61-62 rc. Flat convex ground with dymalux handles! The questions are, how do these handles hold up over time? Are they relatively durable? This is my first time using them! But I like how light they are. Also, a question regarding steel. I’m thinking of making his out of 15n20. He wants a budget steel. Thinking of running them around 62rc. What’s everyone’s opinion as far as edge retention in the field with this steel. I haven’t done much testing on it! Thanks

 

[JoeBusic]

Scales should work just fine. Steel, maybe consider 14C28N. Stainless, high toughness and good edge retention. 15N20 has just the toughness.

 

[Seedy Lot]

For budget steel I would say AEB-L or 14C28N, more edge wear then 15N20 and I do like more corrosion resistance for hunting knives.

You like your super tough steels for hunting knives but I personally find more carbide volume in my steels to be a large benefit for processing game. I personally don't see the need for high impact toughness in a hunting knife and feel a more balanced steel is superior. Friend of mine recently butchered an elk and had a Magnacut knife and a 10v knife and after using the 10v he swears it is the best elk hunting steel ever.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Magnacut or S35VN would be my recommendations.

THIN is what you want - .06" is just right for a caper and .10 for the skinner.

 

[rodriguezryan14]

For budget steel I would say AEB-L or 14C28N, more edge wear then 15N20 and I do like more corrosion resistance for hunting knives.

You like your super tough steels for hunting knives but I personally find more carbide volume in my steels to be a large benefit for processing game. I personally don't see the need for high impact toughness in a hunting knife and feel a more balanced steel is superior. Friend of mine recently butchered an elk and had a Magnacut knife and a 10v knife and after using the 10v he swears it is the best elk hunting steel ever.

I really enjoy the high toughness steels. And I’ve never had an issue working game. The highest wear steel i use is probably cpm-m4. I like the tough steels, because I never really know what I’ll run into in the wilderness! I’m usually 10-15 miles back somewhere. And honestly I’ve been pretty content with even A8mod as far as edge retention working elk! Z-tuff run at 61 rc broke down, quartered and skinned an entire bull for me, I hit it a couple times on a ceramic and it was back to a nice sharp edge!! Lately I’ve realized some of these extreme high alloy steels are kind of over rated for most game! Unless you’re skinning a moose or bison, but I think 4v at 62 rc would be enough for that!! That’s why magnucut intrigues me, 4v toughness, but stainless. That’s a perfect steel for a higher end option in my opinion!! Most of my knives lately have been 3v. Which is probably my all around favorite steel!!
I have aeb-l on hand, and if anything I’ll use that at around 62 rc. But what I like about 15n20, is no cryo, no foil, and no extended soak!! But maybe I’ll go that route instead! I may do one of each, and have him test them for me!!

 

[rodriguezryan14]

Magnacut or S35VN would be my recommendations.

THIN is what you want - .06" is just right for a caper and .10 for the skinner.

Magnucut would probably be my choice, but I’m keeping the price as low as possible on these. If it was for some of my other customers, that’s the route I’d go! This knife is think .090 thick. Can’t remember exactly. And I’ll keep his around the same!

 

[rodriguezryan14]

For budget steel I would say AEB-L or 14C28N, more edge wear then 15N20 and I do like more corrosion resistance for hunting knives.

You like your super tough steels for hunting knives but I personally find more carbide volume in my steels to be a large benefit for processing game. I personally don't see the need for high impact toughness in a hunting knife and feel a more balanced steel is superior. Friend of mine recently butchered an elk and had a Magnacut knife and a 10v knife and after using the 10v he swears it is the best elk hunting steel ever.

You do get a nice saw tooth aggressive cutting steel out of the high carbide steels. Which makes a difference cutting hide! Not so much meat! But definitely when you’re skinning and caping! I made my dad a d2 skinner that he loves! I used a different heat treat than the industry standard! And he’s thrilled with it!!

 

[Crag the Brewer]

For budget steel I would say AEB-L or 14C28N, more edge wear then 15N20 and I do like more corrosion resistance for hunting knives.

You like your super tough steels for hunting knives but I personally find more carbide volume in my steels to be a large benefit for processing game. I personally don't see the need for high impact toughness in a hunting knife and feel a more balanced steel is superior. Friend of mine recently butchered an elk and had a Magnacut knife and a 10v knife and after using the 10v he swears it is the best elk hunting steel ever.

10v is similar to K390? or no?
I've wanted to talk to you about Your thoughts on me wanting to make some....

 

[Seedy Lot]

rodriguezryan14 . I used a Magnacut knife at 63 Rc, to gut, skin, and totally butcher to freezer a 540 pound hog. Knife was still able to slice newprinter after with zero edge touch up.

I was butchering a deer a couple years ago using a CD#1 knife and it was not cutting aggressive enough for my liking when working through connective tissue. At first I thought it was dull but after checking and finding edge was still very keen I switched over to a Cruwear knife and life was good.

Ingot D2 is very aggressive but even with a low temper cryo heat treatment I was finding the steel was popping chips with prying cuts into wood and since I also find myself deep in the mountains I crossed the steel off my list. I did find CPM D2 to have much better edge stability compared to ingot but not as aggressive at cutting.

 

[Seedy Lot]

Crag the Brewer I would put 10v and K390 in the same category.

 

[rodriguezryan14]

rodriguezryan14 . I used a Magnacut knife at 63 Rc, to gut, skin, and totally butcher to freezer a 540 pound hog. Knife was still able to slice newprinter after with zero edge touch up.

I was butchering a deer a couple years ago using a CD#1 knife and it was not cutting aggressive enough for my liking when working through connective tissue. At first I thought it was dull but after checking and finding edge was still very keen I switched over to a Cruwear knife and life was good.

Ingot D2 is very aggressive but even with a low temper cryo heat treatment I was finding the steel was popping chips with prying cuts into wood and since I also find myself deep in the mountains I crossed the steel off my list. I did find CPM D2 to have much better edge stability compared to ingot but not as aggressive at cutting.

What heat treat was used on the cd#1 knife? Maybe sharpen to a lower grit! That usually helps a lot. I go to about 220 grit on my hunting knives!! I use cryo and low temper on mine! I find it to be a crisper edge than the high temper! My 3v knife I made for an upcoming elk hunt was re sharpened last night to 220 grit, and I tested it this morning cutting 1 inch Manila rope. You could feel the aggressiveness in the cut compared to the higher grit it was before!! Cruware is awesome for skinning. I’ve used it several times! And of course magnucut. But I’ve only made one knife from it with Larrins heat treat. And man did it hold a good edge. It was gifted to my cousin!

 

[rodriguezryan14]

rodriguezryan14 . I used a Magnacut knife at 63 Rc, to gut, skin, and totally butcher to freezer a 540 pound hog. Knife was still able to slice newprinter after with zero edge touch up.

I was butchering a deer a couple years ago using a CD#1 knife and it was not cutting aggressive enough for my liking when working through connective tissue. At first I thought it was dull but after checking and finding edge was still very keen I switched over to a Cruwear knife and life was good.

Ingot D2 is very aggressive but even with a low temper cryo heat treatment I was finding the steel was popping chips with prying cuts into wood and since I also find myself deep in the mountains I crossed the steel off my list. I did find CPM D2 to have much better edge stability compared to ingot but not as aggressive at cutting.

D2 isn’t especially tough whatsoever! I really don’t care for it. But I had a bar and made my dad a test knife out of it! Hollow ground and thin! Can’t remember specifics on it because it was a couple years ago. It’s a good skinner steel, but in my opinion that’s all it’s good for! I’ll never understand these companies making “survival knives” out of it! It’s way to fragile for that!!

But I think I’m gonna make him a new one out of magnucut!Run hard and thin!

I’ve never tried cpm d2. But I hear decent things about it! That’s why I like 3v. It can be run hard and thin, it’s extremely durable, and yet it cuts aggressively with those vanadium carbides!!
And like Stacy recommended, I need to try s35vn for a few smaller blades eventually!!

 

[Seedy Lot]

What heat treat was used on the cd#1 knife?

Low temper and cryo.

Yes a more aggressive sharpening would help with toothy cutting but I am a sucker for finishing on a Spyderco fine ceramic so more carbides is my current answer.

I have not used S35VN much but I do like S45VN, something special about it. I gave a S45VN knife to an Australian friend who hunts Sambar and he loves the steel.

 

[rodriguezryan14]

Low temper and cryo.

Yes a more aggressive sharpening would help with toothy cutting but I am a sucker for finishing on a Spyderco fine ceramic so more carbides is my current answer.

I have not used S35VN much but I do like S45VN, something special about it. I gave a S45VN knife to an Australian friend who hunts Sambar and he loves the steel.

That’s also a steel I plan to try eventually! It looks intriguing!! I usually finish on the brown stones on my sharp maker!