Slack Belt mod for 4x36

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Jul 2, 2010
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176
So I've graduated form using my old 4x36 to grind blades (thank God) but I still keep it around for doing handle work if I don't want to change set ups, and maybe a little painful nostalgia.

For doing rounding on handle stock, I remember seeing an attachment for creating a slack in the belt, a simple folded metal triangle that hooked in near the top wheel. This has been some years ago, but I'd like to pick one up, just to make rounding handles easier when I don't want to change attachments on the other grinder.

If someone could point me in the right direction, I'd really appreciate it.
 
Before I got rid of mine, I had just removed the rear cover which gave me access to the back of the hollow case/'platen'. I did most of my handle contouring back there because it was essentially all slack unless you got up near the rollers.

I had the HF 4x36 and the belt was pretty slack to begin with until I made my own tensioner. I know most of the 4x36 sanders out there are pretty similar
 
I'm also doing a mod on my 4x36. I have a glass platen liner that I want to add, but trying to figure out how to raise the rollers above the current soft steel platen. One end is slotted vertically, and can be adjusted, but the other is slotted horizontally for the tension adjust. I did consider gluing a rubber sheet around the roller, which would raise the roller surface, and tighten up the tension a bit. I did insert a couple washers as spacers around the spring to add more pre load. Would also like to find a more powerful motor that would fit. I use this grinder for flat grinding and squaring up wood blocks.
 
Thanks Allen,

I'll give that a go. Saves me money and is easier than trying to install something new.
 
kbright,

While its off topic, the easiest way to improve the 4x36 is change your pulley dimensions, essentially re gearing it. You lose some torque but it will increase belt speed. Its honestly not worth the money trying to install a new motor or do any heavy duty modifications to it like that. Adding a larger diameter to the wheels to add more tension would help it track better as well, but reconfiguring their attachment points would likely require fabricating most of a case, as you will need to change the tensioning lever and its operation.
 
i love my 4x36. it sucked for blades but it is great for handles. i got the tw-90 and the KMG but i still do all handles on the 4x36. i am on my 3rd one, last one i bought from sears right before they closed. i figured why bother to learn a new technique on the 2x72" when all was going fine on the 4x36" :rolleyes:
 
Thanks Allen,

I'll give that a go. Saves me money and is easier than trying to install something new.

Definitely! You'll need the platen in the upright position but if it's not slack enough for you - you can loosen the tensioner just a tad :) if you have the HF one there is alot of room back there where the belt is not supported at all - there is some bracing but it was always no problem for me to work around it
 
I kept my 6 x 48 for getting wood flat and Hermès brown AO belts. 40g & 120G ,Like $2.00 ? to shape on the 2 x 72 with the Platen out and then a 400g and hand sand from there..
 
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