Slight hadle slab gap, suggestions for a fix

jonnymac44

jonnymac44

Joined
Sep 27, 2007
Messages
7,680
Well, I normally check very closely when clamping up handle slabs to make sure that they are even, but this one got by me. It's a very slight gap at the very front of the scale. I've got a lot of time in this knife and don't want to grind these handles off, especially since I don't have any more of this handle material. Can I use super glue or something like Zap A Gap to try and fill this little void and make this blade a bit more respectable?

This pic is a pretty good zoom shot, so for reference, the blade is .176" thick in this shot. The gap is very small, but I wouldn't feel right sending it out of the shop like this.

What do you guys think??

HandleGap2.jpg
 
If you kept some of the dust from the scale material when you shaped the handle you can mix it with epoxy and fill the gap with it and refinish it. Provided you have enough of the left over dust the repair should work, but may not hold up to close scrutiny. Some makers as a general practice dye their epoxy black or a color close to the scale color so that gaps like this filled or less obvious. Good Luck
Kevin
 
I don't know of any real fix that I would be comfortable passing off. The best option is to either bite the bullet and redo them or be as upfront and honest as possible when placing the knife on the market for sale.
 
I agree with Joseph, I would redo them or point it out in the sales description and sell it at a discount.
 
I would take the opportunity to learn how to fix this kind of problem if I were you. When you get done, if it looks bad, then knock them off. If it is undetectable, then its not a flaw.
 
You can try some thin super glue in the space, while it's still wet hit it on the sander and the dust will blend it in. I have done this on small cracks with good results.I don't know if it would help but might be worth trying before redoing or like others said point it out and give a discount. Good luck
 
The G10 has just a little too much texture on the edge to get away with blackened epoxy, is my guess. I would go with Fiddleback's suggestion anyway, unless you are in a hurry to get it complete. You might learn a new trick. Or, you will know the next time around that there is no other option than to pop the scales.
 
The leading edge of the handle is the place most often to pull away from the tang. Especially with wood (stabalized or not), or if you've ever used that horrid vulcanized fiber. Once you've made enough knives, you will have to fix this as a warranty issue. Learn to do it professionally.
 
Thanks for the input guys. I'm going to take Andy's advice and try a repair job before doing anything drastic. He has a point. If I end up making hundreds of knives, I will eventually have to deal with this in the future, so I might as well get proficient at fixing this type of thing.
 
A good low viscosity CA run into the gap and then clamp up for 24 hrs. If that doesn't work, then probably have to redo the handle. Filling the gap will do nothing about removing it.
 
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I'm not trying to give advice on something I haven't done but this place might help if you decide to go the superglue route.

The gel type gap filling ones seem like they would be great for this type of thing.

http://www.starbond.com/

The epoxy/dust idea sounds great also.
 
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Gaps can be fixed with no weakness in structural integrity. Atleast you'll know there is epoxy in there after you fix it, right? A common mistake is to clamp too hard and squeeze out all the adhesive. I agree with Andy, fix it up and ship it out if there is no sign of a gap.

Never discount due to noticeable flaws... time will pass, the discount will be forgotten and only the flaws will remain.

Rick
 
FYI, JB Weld leaves a colored line, when used to glue up slabs on a full tang knife. ;)
 
I havent found a fix that is any better than that....a fix, repair...blemishes are different. I would rescale it and the lesson is learned not to let one get by you, ultimately that is being as professional as you can get.
 
I wouldn't try to clamp the gap shut. That will only put stress (glue bond popping stress) into the equation. Much like drawing a bow. Fill it with med viscocity superglue holding the tip slightly up fron horizontal. Do it slowly adding glue a few times and hitting it with the spray accelerator. Try to prevent getting it on the leading edge of the scales, or the blade. The knife has black scales. It'll disappear after sanding. If you get a white haze, rub it with debonder on your finger when youre done. C'est finis.
 
Bad luck, hope the repair is a good fix. At least now we know you are not a robot as was suggested on a different thread. Jess
 
Flex the blade (slightly) to increase the gap and determine the extent of the problem.

Apply low viscosity superglue while the blade is flexed. Capillary action will pull the glue into the seam.

Allow the blade to return to neutral and clamp just enough to close the gap. If everything is parallel the problem is not the materials. The problem is in alignment and/or glue application and/or clamping.

Wait and inspect after the bond cures.

If it meets your standard you are done. If it does not meet your standard it's time to pop the scales or get a bigger hammer:-)
 
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I would also avoid clamping the gap shut. That's just a sure way to make the flaw re-appear in the future once the stress stored in the flexed scale finally wins.

--nathan
 
Thanks for all the input guys. To clarify, there is no flex whatsoever that I can detect. These scales are on there in a serious way!! I learned from a few guys early on to make my pins a very tight fit. Mine usually have to be tapped in with a rubber mallet, my tang holes and scale divots make great epoxy "rivets" as somebody has mentioned before. The scales are there to stay. What I need to fix is cosmetic at this point. Functionally the knife is good in my opinion. I agree that trying to press the scale down is not the answer in this particular case. I'm still going to go with Andy's idea on this one and we'll see what happens

Jesse, yes this does confirm that I am not always producing robot precision here!:D Of course, I knew that all along!

Thanks for all the help!
 
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