(slightly) damaged kershaw blur

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kaozer

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Apr 22, 2016
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So i work somewhere with ceramic floors. i did not properly put the knife back in my pocket (like a dumb***) and it fell out. i'm pretty sure it hit the floor on the butt of the handle as theres a scuff mark there and the blade opened (yup im unlucky...) and well there is some damage on it. i was wondering if this was something easy to fix? I have ordered a spyderco sharpmaker but not received it yet, should i just use it on it?

http://i.imgur.com/ZJ97FRC.jpg
 
allright i also forgot to mention that i can feel the bent edge with my nails on that side of the blade...
 
It might take a bit of sharpening to fix, but it can be sharpened out. The edge might not be perfect at first but you can get it back to razor. And after a few sharpening the damage should be mostly gone.
 
If the blade is bent, you can try unbending it. But do it carefully and not break the blade instead.

I've seen a video of Murray Carter unbending a bent knife as it's one of the things he checks before sharpening a knife. He has a thingamajig to do it, I think sticking the blade between a door and a door jamb can also work.
 
Rey HRH said:
If the blade is bent, you can try unbending it. But do it carefully and not break the blade instead.

I've seen a video of Murray Carter unbending a bent knife as it's one of the things he checks before sharpening a knife. He has a thingamajig to do it, I think sticking the blade between a door and a door jamb can also work.
Click to expand...

I think he is talking about a bad roll, not a bent blade. I guess, by definition a roll is a "bend" but I digress...

I agree with Adam, sharpen it and move on. It will be ok.
 
You can send it back to Kershaw and they'll sharpen it up and send it back. https://kershaw.kaiusaltd.com/warranty for the info.

But that looks like it could be sharpened out. You'll need to be careful using a Sharpmaker not to round off the point there where the two straight edges meet. You can use the Sharpmaker rods like a bench stone by laying them flat in the two slots on the bottom of the plastic base (it is made for that), which would help avoid that.

However, I'd personally want something a little coarser than just the medium Sharpmaker rods, just for the speed of it. If that's all you have, it'll work, but it will take a little while. If it were me, the first stone it would see would be a Norton India coarse/fine combo stone.
 
allright thank you for the answer although this leads me to another one.. which angle should i use on the sharpmaker when i receive it? and is the same angle good for a knife like the crkt deviation and eros ss?
 
kaozer said:
allright i also forgot to mention that i can feel the bent edge with my nails on that side of the blade...
Click to expand...

That'll actually be easier to fix; sounds as if the edge is just rolled, and not chipped. Some light sharpening will fix that pretty easily, and you shouldn't have to do anything extreme to correct it.


David
 
kaozer said:
allright thank you for the answer although this leads me to another one.. which angle should i use on the sharpmaker when i receive it? and is the same angle good for a knife like the crkt deviation and eros ss?
Click to expand...

Mark the bevels on your edge with a Sharpie. Then make a light pass or two on the Sharpmaker's rods at the narrowest setting (30° 'back bevel'), and see where the ink comes off. If you see ink being removed at the edge itself, or (if you're really lucky) from the entire width of the bevel from edge to shoulder, your edge angle is equal to or less than 30° inclusive, and you're in good shape to use the 30° setting to resharpen it. If you see the ink being scrubbed off high on the bevels or at the shoulders of the bevels, but not at the edge, that indicates your edge angle is wider than the rods' current setting at 30°. Re-mark the bevels and try the same test at the 40° setting, and look again to see where the ink comes off. At the very least, it should be coming off closer to the edge. If the ink still isn't coming off at the edge itself, and only somewhere above the edge, that shows your blade's edge angle is wider than 40°; if so, you'll need to do some more grinding/thinning of the edge profile to get it within the limits of the Sharpmaker. Just looking at your picture and estimating, your edge angle doesn't look too wide to me; I'd guess you're already at least within the 40° limit, and maybe near to or within the 30° limit.


David
 
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For sharpening the Blur, I'll add a bit more to what jc57 said. You want to treat the two sections like they are two separate edges. Sharpen the main section from the heel to the point where the two edges meet... stop with that point on the middle of the flat, and keep the knife level (don't lift the handle). Then, raise the handle so the front portion is parallel to the floor, start with the point where the two edges meet in the middle of the stone and then move to the tip, again stopping with the tip in the middle of the stone, and no handle rotation. Use only the flat sides of the Sharpmaker stones... don't bother with the corners.
 
cbwx34 i'm just wondering why not use the corners of the stones. i have not sharpened a knife in quite a while so might as well say im new to this
 
kaozer said:
cbwx34 i'm just wondering why not use the corners of the stones. i have not sharpened a knife in quite a while so might as well say im new to this
Click to expand...

I don't think the thin strip of abrasive using the corners does all that much for sharpening an edge, so the time is better spent on the flat side, (I use them on serrations for obvious reasons), but also it's easy to round the tip off on the corners... it's hard to stop with the tip on the corner, and if it drags across the flat part, which is easy to do, it'll grind off the tip.
 
allright thank you, will update with the results whenever my sharpmaker shows up. stupid cross country shipping...
 
allright, after some practice and two sharpening on the kershaw blur i got it back to razor sharp and i cannot see any imperfection in the blade anymore. so thank you for all the tips and tricks. i also have one last question for this thread. Is it normal that my Eros SS with AUS8 steel not become as sharp as my blur with BDZ1?
 
kaozer said:
allright, after some practice and two sharpening on the kershaw blur i got it back to razor sharp and i cannot see any imperfection in the blade anymore. so thank you for all the tips and tricks. i also have one last question for this thread. Is it normal that my Eros SS with AUS8 steel not become as sharp as my blur with BDZ1?
Click to expand...
Hi,
How are you checking for sharpness? Are you sure you don't have a burr?
How many times have you sharpened the EROS SS AUS8?
Before you start sharpening, do you "destress" the edge by cutting off the old apex?
 
bucketstove said:
Hi,
How are you checking for sharpness? Are you sure you don't have a burr?
How many times have you sharpened the EROS SS AUS8?
Before you start sharpening, do you "destress" the edge by cutting off the old apex?
Click to expand...

i simply sharpen the knife on the spyderco sharpmaker and i test the sharpness by trying to cut journal paper and by feeling it with my thumb carefully. in both case it really isnt as sharp
 
kaozer said:
i simply sharpen the knife on the spyderco sharpmaker and i test the sharpness by trying to cut journal paper and by feeling it with my thumb carefully. in both case it really isnt as sharp
Click to expand...
Hi,
what are the steps in "simply sharpen"? are you using the corners? if you put the sharmaker on a food scale and do a sharpening pass, how many grams or ounces does the scale read?

:) to me it seems all the possibilities are still possible, uneven edge, damaged steel, burr, loaded stones, too much force

most likely, edge isn't apexed yet, common if edge is uneven, so one side apexes faster than the other, but if you stop there, not as sharp as it should be, simple solution, only grind one side until raise burr, cut burr off, only grind other side untill raise burr, deburr and you're done (or cut apex off then sharpen like usual )

or could be you still have significant burr, solution is double the angle and do one-two light passes (as much under 100 grams as you have control), then do no more 5-10 alternating passes at original angle. if stones are loaded/dirty clean them.

or could be the the apex is weakened/fatigued steel, either from power sharpening (like at factory) or from burr flexing/flipping from side to side , solution is cut off the apex on stone by cutting into stone lightly 1-3 times , then sharpen on fresh/good steel.

For more detailed explanation see Sharpening Curriculum / Trouble sharpening super blue - Spyderco Forums
 
I sharpen it like i sharpened the blur. Since it was still decently sharp i only used the flat white stones to give it a touch up. I currently am at work i will take a picture of the blade when home
 
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