Slightly exposed edge/tip -any easy fix?

S

Siggyhk

Joined
Feb 8, 2006
Messages
1,645
I've never noticed this before today, but I own a S+M Doctor's knife and when the main blade is closed, there's just the slightest bit of the tip and edge exposed above the handle. Just enough to get a finger-nail under, not likely to be a problem durring pocket carry, but it bothers me pretty well.
I feel like I would of noticed this before (I've carried it for a few weeks), so I think this might have occured recently. I'm wondering if anyone has any thoughts on this. Could it be an issue with the spring of some sort, and/or is it anything that can be reversed with relitive ease?
I've considered that I could have the top of the blade ground down slightly, but would like to avoid that if possible.
I appreciate your thoughts.

On a side note, I've had the spatula blade on this knife ground into a wharncliff and had an edge put on it. Hope to get pictures shortly and will share when/if I can. Thanks.
 
If you grind the kick down carefully (just a little) with some coarse sandpaper you should drop the sink the blade into the frame enough to remove the risk of being stuck by the exposed point.

(If you are not familiar with the term, the "kick" is the corner of the tang that rests on the backspring when the knife is closed. An easy way to do this is to just put the sandpaper on a flat surface and hold the knife horizontal while open. Rub the kick on the paper until it abrades enough of the steel away to allow the blade to close completely.)
 
attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • Blade Parts.jpg
    Blade Parts.jpg
    33.1 KB · Views: 374
Check to see if the blade goes all the way down if you put thumb pressure
on it from the top, if it does the knife could be getting tighter on you, bolsters
actually pinching the blade tang from the sides (this is one of the reasons some
makers use pivot bushings). If this is happening a wood wedge (lightly) between
the bolsters should do it. Its what Blues said, getting tighter, or a weak spring
and its probably not the spring

Ken
 
There could be pocket lint on the backspring, where the kick meets it. Make sure that area is clean before you do anything else. Use a toothpick.
If you need to cut down the kick, use a file if at all possible. You don't want sanding grit in the pivot area!
 
Bill DeShivs said:
There could be pocket lint on the backspring, where the kick meets it. Make sure that area is clean before you do anything else. Use a toothpick.
If you need to cut down the kick, use a file if at all possible. You don't want sanding grit in the pivot area!
Click to expand...

If you do decide that the kick needs to be reduced to drop the point keep in mind that .001 off the kick will drop the point of the blade .010 to .015 or so.Keep in mind that if you drop the blade too much into the frame you risk the sharpened edge hitting the inside of the backspring, normally near the center pin . Also some tangs will be just as hard as the blade, being a file may skate. I have a diamond needle file that cuts hardened kicks fine. If you do use abrasive paper as Blues suggested make sure you blow out and "oil the joint" afterwards. Good luck!
 
Last edited:
If you havent noticed before,it's prolly crud in there like DeShivs said.
 
Thanks for all the advice thus far. I really do appreciate it. I really like this knife and it's become my main carry piece.
The picture gave me some new information and that's always good.

Let me mention, I did put slight pressure on the bolsters using cloth wrapped pliers to reduce a small amount of side to side blade wiggle I was experiencing. It seemed to work well with no noticable ill effect and this was over a week ago. Obviously this did put more pressure on the tang though.
I don't think this is the cause however becuase the blade can be pressed down with thumb pressure (when closed), but as soon as it goes down the slightest bit, the back-spring starts to rise instantly. When I release thumb preasure, the blade rises right back up. Therefore I think that the Kick must be in full contact with the spring.
-The knife pivot and inner back-spring area are clean and oiled.
So, at this point, It seems to me like removing a small amount of the Kick is the way to go. Considering how far I can actually depress the blade into the handle, I'd say there's a significant amount of room to work with.
But, I'm still not 100% sure on how the bolster tightening could have effected this issue or not, or if I should try and wedge them back apart slightly as ck custom suggested. Also, if that worked, I'd assume doing so would bring back the blade play. I'd probably rather remove some of the kick.
I can see that the kick is already flat, as if they tunned it during manufactering. I have fine and medium Lansky diamond stones and was thinking they'd work well for working the Kick down.
I feel like I've got the right idea here, but some confirmation either way would be great. Thanks again, -Joe
 
I just finished removing some of the kick on my grand pops old Case Trapper... It got the tip to go below the handle scale... It worked fine as I would expect....
I guess mine was just this way from being so old .. I dont know....
 
It's not the bolsters. If the inside of the backspring is clean, then file down the kick. It won't take much, and be very careful not to get any abrasive into the pivot area.
 
Worked like a charm, and only took about 5 minutes. -My thanks to everyone who made a suggestion. Much appreciative, -Joe
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top