Slip joint bushing

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Feb 5, 2017
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I’m slowly getting to grips with making slip joints. I bought some aluminium bronze bushings to try.
In previous one’s I’ve made I just used a pin and milled a relief out of the liner. I’m planning on leaving the bushing 0.03mm wider than the blade, will I still need to mill the liner out or will the tiny amount the bushing will be wider than the blade be enough to stop it scratching the tang?
Thanks
 
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Usually a straight pin is used. When the knife is assembled a spacer is placed between the tang and liner to provide clearance for the blade to move after the knife is assembled. The blade rides on the pin, and the distance between the blade and liners is half the thickness of the spacer, on each side.
Usually there is no separate bushings on a slipjoint. What would be the point?
Why complicate things?
 
I’m slowly getting to grips with making slip joints. I bought some aluminium bronze bushings to try.
In previous one’s I’ve made I just used a pin and milled a relief out of the liner. I’m planning on leaving the bushing 0.03mm wider than the blade, will I still need to mill the liner out or will the tiny amount the bushing will be wider than the blade be enough to stop it scratching the tang?
Thanks

Ive just realised that I’ve probably posted this in the wrong place, if someone could move it please.

Usually a straight pin is used. When the knife is assembled a spacer is placed between the tang and liner to provide clearance for the blade to move after the knife is assembled. The blade rides on the pin, and the distance between the blade and liners is half the thickness of the spacer, on each side.
Usually there is no separate bushings on a slipjoint. What would be the point?
Why complicate things?

Many if not most custom slipjoint makers build their knives with a bushing or washers. This is done to prevent the blended pin from showing that ghost ring over time. On a non-bushing knife the blade rides on just the pin causing it to turn slightly over time. For a bushing knife the blade rides on the bushing. The bushing is staked between the liners and the pin holds it all in place. The pin will never turn in a knife built this way and therefore less chance for that ghost ring in the bolsters. To the OP. I highly recommend you check out Mr. Tony Bose web site and he provides a link on how he does the bushing process. That's how I learned. The reason for mill relieving the liners is because the tolerances are so tight and it allows you to really beat the pivot pin tight. With milled liners you will not experience the blade grind on the liners and it'll keep your tang finish looking good.
 
I also believe the presence of a bushing is one factor that makes the more expensive custom slip joints - more expensive. It is something I would check on before buying one.
 
I would still relieve the liners. Even with the .03mm “gap”, there will still be some minor flex/side to side movement in your assembly, or at the very least, the potential for dirt and debris to work its way in around the tang area.
 
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