slip joint steel question

Joined
Sep 9, 2005
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Guys, I want to make a slip joint folder and I want to use a carbon steel (1084) instead of stainless because I just want to try this steel and I think I will be able to do the HT myself. I am thinking tho that if the spring is also made of this steel then it will surely rust on the inside where I cannot get to it to clean it.Would it not be better to use a stainless steel for the spring? It needs to be hardened doesn't it?
Is it unusual to use different steels for different parts of any knife?
Thanks in advance.

Mike
 
There are a few hundred million folders out there with carbon steel blades and springs. So far, no one has seen a problem.

Unless you get the knife soaking wet and never dry it off or clean it, you have little worry about rust on the spring. 1084 and 095 are very common for slippies.
 
I use O-1 and A2 for my carbon steel folders, with just a little maintenance rust id not a problem.
 
Thank you Stacy and Stanley. This is great news.
Stanley, how does the A2 work for the folders? I am thinking of trying it in a folder too.

Both of you gents make beautiful knives BTW.

Thanks
 
I really like A2, for a carbon steel it is my favorite. Air hardening so you need a kiln for H/T but a great carbon steel.
 
A2 has great properties in both sharpness and toughness/strength. In your learning of knifemaking, it is what I consider a mid point steel between carbon steel blades and stainless steel blades. It is a carbon steel with a HT more like a stainless steel.


Austenitize at 1775-1800F, and hold for 30 minutes. You can oil quench it or air cool it. In blade thicknesses, air cooling is fine. Quench plates will assure a straight blade. Tempering at 450F gives a very good blade around Rc 59-60. 400F gives Rc 60-61. Tempering below 400F will give a blade prone to snapping. I find 450F gives the perfect A2 blade. For rough use camp blades , machete, and short swords, temper at 500F, or do the high temper range at 800-1000F.
 
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