Slip joints....and Mark Laramie..

Kohai999

Kohai999

Second Degree Cutter
Joined
Jul 15, 2003
Messages
12,554
Hey all,

I have gotten the bug for slipjoints lately.

Got one from Bill Ruple, Chuck Gedraitis, Bailey Bradshaw(one of the Sawby locks, so technically not a slipjoint:) ), and another from our own Don Hanson III.

However, the 3 blade Stockman, large (4.25" handle) is my all time favorite, and those are few, far between and, usually, downright expensive.

I saw a 3 blade stockman in Knives 2007 by, again, our own, Mark Laramie, and contacted him about a stainless 3 blade stockman with pearl handles.

Communications have been excellent, and my expections are hopeful that I will be pleased. If this transaction goes well, I will be ordering another one with stag handles.

Specs are 4.25" handle, maybe 3.25"+ clip main blade, wharncliffe blade, and spey blade of SS to be determined by maker, ss liners and bolsters, maybe some filework on liners/back spacers only.

Good anticipated wait time and cost, so I am VERY hopeful that this will be an exciting interaction.

Will keep ya'll posted as it moves foreward.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Yes! Large Stockman is also my favorite when it comes to slipjoints. Actually have I been planning to contact mr Laramie. I saw a Stockman he made in Blade? maybe. It looked good with pocket friendly bolsters.

What kind of steel did you order? For how long is mr Laramie Backordered?

Sincerely

/OG
 
swe said:
Yes! Large Stockman is also my favorite when it comes to slipjoints. Actually have I been planning to contact mr Laramie. I saw a Stockman he made in Blade? maybe. It looked good with pocket friendly bolsters.

What kind of steel did you order? For how long is mr Laramie Backordered?

Sincerely

/OG
Click to expand...

1. Stainless steel to be chosen by maker

2. Backlog is about 4-6 months.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Thanks for info, I will email him. I think I will try jigged bone. I have never had a custom Stockman but some good ones from Schatt and Morgan with brass liners and nickel silver bolsters.

Recently I got a mid lock from PJ Tomes with stainless steel liners and bolsters – which I like because it looks more custom and doesn´t stain. But I have also heard that it is more likely to get blade play with steel liners than with soft brass liners. What do you think?

Best regards

/OG
 
I have a number of custom slipjoints with steel bolsters, both stainless and damascus. None of them have any blade play. Personally, I can't imagine ordering a custom folder that didn't have steel bolsters--with the possible exception of meteorite.
 
I would guess a custom slipjoint would get blade play due to a failure in design or execution not due a difference between liner composition. There are old slipjoints w/o bladeplay made by factory cutlers that are constructed of steel, stainless-steel, brass, nickel silver and iron that have stood the test of time and use w/o blade play. There is however a great disparity in experience in slipjoint design and construction between makers. This is readily apparent in the lower price ranges (e.g. <$500). I have a custom slip in both nickel silver and stainless liners and wouldn't pick one over the other. For bolsters nickel silver scratches easier than steel and can tarnish, but flitz makes it like new. I have one of the "custom" slagel slips from northwoods that has 1095 steel liners. It's a tank, but it can be a rusty one in the summer :)

Will it be pinned or screw construction? If pinned, will you have a domed pivot pin? What's your preference? I like pinned, but can take the pivot both domed and hidden depending upon the lines of the knife.
 
It is very interesting to learn more about slipjoints, it is more history involved than with tacticals. I think I will have it pinned, and i prefer the pivot to be hidden but it is not necessary – much up the maker I guess. I have never seen a Stockman put together with screws – maybe I will ask Mr Laramie.

Next thing to decide is what kind of steel. I really like carbon steel, but there are of course more to take care of.
 
...... But I have also heard that it is more likely to get blade play with steel liners than with soft brass liners. What do you think?...
Click to expand...

Personal preference is for stainless steel liners, and experience has shown that SS liners/bolster are no more likely to develop blade play than brass or nickel silver.

In just about ALL knives, personal preference is for stainless fittings.

Although it is not traditional, in pearl handled slipjoints, preference is for screwed-on scales. It makes it easier for the maker to put them on without worrying about cracking them, and it makes it easier to change them if they get cracked on down the line.

I like bolster pins to be smooth, no domed.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Gentlemen... I got slip-joint fever early last year. I've made single & two blade trappers, canoes, stockman, my own 'bully' design, some small pen knives, a barlow, and my own gentleman's warncliff slip. They were quite the challenge at first (of course all customs will have a challenge or two, especially when trying something new), but they're coming along.
I've used nickel-silver, stainless, and titanium for liner materials on slips. I've used nickel-silver, stainless, and damascus for bolsters. When heat coloring bolsters I really have to round the pivot pin if the handle material is pinned on. It's no easy thing to smooth those pins and keep the color on the steel :)
I do agree with Steve on his preference to have the pearl handle scales screwed on rather than pinned because you have less of a chance for cracking (even unseen cracks will eventually show) and if you do drop the knife and crack a scale, replacing it is much easier. But if your going for traditional then I guess we just have got to pin those scales ;) Thanks for letting me ramble guys, Mark
 
Good to get an opinion from the maker himself! I got your email, please put me on the list for an Stockman with stag scales. By the way, have you tried Muskrats?

I also have to make make the decision: Carbon steel or stainless. What do you think?

Regards

Ossian G
 
Ossian, I think that if you keep your knife clean and dry and will maintain those carbon blades then I would go with carbon steel. If not, or if you live in an area that will rust the carbon steel quickly then go with stainless. Either way I'll make sure that they are heat treated correctly in order to maintain the best resistance to corrosion.
 
My only comment is that screws seem totally out of place on a slipjoint to me, and though somewhat popular these days, I would also resist the urge to have a wharncliffe blade put on a Stockman:barf:
 
Durwood said:
My only comment is that screws seem totally out of place on a slipjoint to me, and though somewhat popular these days, I would also resist the urge to have a wharncliffe blade put on a Stockman:barf:
Click to expand...

1. I imagine that these will be extremely small cap head allen screws, not slotted, so that will not destroy the look of the classic pins.

2. Every 3 blade stockman that I have ever seen/owned, from my first Buck in 1982 had a Clip, spey and wharncliffe blade. What do you suggest as another approach?

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
I've rarely (almost never) seen a stockman with a wharncliffe blade, i'm assuming you mean a sheep foot blade, which is admittedly sort of similar, but certainly not the same. I have been wanting a reasonably priced custom Stockman as well so, I'm watching this closely:D I would go with a Clip, spey, and sheep foot blade, or possibly a pen blade in place of the sheep foot.

1) I'd make sure the maker could make a decent nail pull, because not many can. I'd have to see examples to be sure they suited me.

2) I would definately want 410 or 416 bolsters and liners.

3) Blade to be stainless in either ATS-34 or its equivalent 154 Cm, or S30V. I would also take D2.

4) Hollow ground blades, sounds like a no brainer, but some guys flat grind their blade even on pocket knives.

5) Stainless pins, no screws--Sorry they just don't seem right on a traditional knife.

6) The knife would have to have a shield, I'm flexible on the style.



I attend as many shows as I can, and I don't see many custom stockmans out there. I guess of the ones I have seen, Bill Ruple's work seems to stand out for me, but I go conservative on the filework or maybe have one of each made... unless I could snag a Stockman from Tony Bose at table price:D
 
Durwood said:
I've rarely (almost never) seen a stockman with a wharncliffe blade, i'm assuming you mean a sheep foot blade, which is admittedly sort of similar, but certainly not the same. I have been wanting a reasonably priced custom Stockman as well so, I'm watching this closely:D I would go with a Clip, spey, and sheep foot blade, or possibly a pen blade in place of the sheep foot.

1) I'd make sure the maker could make a decent nail pull, because not many can. I'd have to see examples to be sure they suited me.

2) I would definately want 410 or 416 bolsters and liners.

3) Blade to be stainless in either ATS-34 or its equivalent 154 Cm, or S30V. I would also take D2.

4) Hollow ground blades, sounds like a no brainer, but some guys flat grind their blade even on pocket knives.

5) Stainless pins, no screws--Sorry they just don't seem right on a traditional knife.

6) The knife would have to have a shield, I'm flexible on the style.
Click to expand...

1. Sheepsfoot/wharncliffe-tomato/tomatoe, but I see your point. Either works fine for me. Really, whatever Mark thinks will look the best

2. Although my preference would be for hollow grinds, would not discount a maker for flat grinds. Again, whatever they are best at.

3. If the maker offers a shield, great, but they don't do much for me, and in pearl, seems like dancing with the devil.:D

4. Stainless liners and bolsters are preferred, but if they offer titanium, that is good too.

Like I originally wrote, I'll keep everyone posted, and will try to get decent photographs instead of my usual ungainly scans.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Sounds like it should be a great knife...if the nail pulls come out right:D On a stockman there will be three chances to get them wrong;) A shield shouldn't be problem for a qualified maker, and I would question whether they were qualified of not if they couldn't put a shield in pearl...considering I just bought a slipjoint from a newcomer over the weekend who is able to inlay intricate shields in pearl with fabulous results.
 
Durwood said:
Sounds like it should be a great knife...if the nail pulls come out right:D On a stockman there will be three chances to get them wrong;) A shield shouldn't be problem for a qualified maker, and I would question whether they were qualified of not if they couldn't put a shield in pearl....
Click to expand...

1. If you check out Mark's site, you can see that he has done a few escutcheons, and his nail nicks/pulls look fine to me.

2. Never asked him about doing shields, because I don't care for them on MY knives, but obviously it is important to YOU.;)

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Ok, I have my large Stockman ordered from Mark now. The specs are: Stainless blades, liners and bolsters (pins, no screws). I also asked Mark about doing a shield and some filework. And yes, the scales will be made of highly figured stag.

I will post some pictures when the knife is here!
 
I stumbled over a reason to go for steel bolsters over nickel silver. If you're going to put some torque on the slipjoint blade, the steel may hold up better over time.
 
My Stockman is now on it´s way from Mark Laramie. He has sent some pictures an it looks very good. Mr Laramie also has pictures on his home page http://www.malknives.com/ (Gallery) of my knife. It is the one with stag scales and file work.

I will post some pictures when the knife is here.

Thanks
 
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