slipjoint completed,

H

HSC ///

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Nov 7, 2012
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completed this

Finished this one up. 1095 blade and spring. Jigged bone scales were a gift from @roeknives , silicon bronze with copper liner bolster, ss liners. The pull on this is light and smooth. More like the tension of a victorinox. Not a snappy 5, but like a 3. Best half stop I've made.

comment and suggestions for improvement welcome
regards
Harbeer

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I sure like that blade shape. Good slicer with a useful tip. Got a picture of it closed?
 
Look real nice! The only comment I would make would be where the bone meets the bolster. I personally like to make that transition a little smoother. I see a lot of the old german hafted stag and bone folders, and the transition at the bolsters is very blocky. Not like yours mind you, as theirs are much more pronounced.

Very nice regardless!
 
glennbad said:
Look real nice! The only comment I would make would be where the bone meets the bolster. I personally like to make that transition a little smoother. I see a lot of the old german hafted stag and bone folders, and the transition at the bolsters is very blocky. Not like yours mind you, as theirs are much more pronounced.

Very nice regardless!
Click to expand...
thanks, I'll have another look at the transition, appreciate your suggestion
I did hand file and radius the bone edge down to make it comfortable in the hand
 
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Nice work overall. My humble critique would be that I find the bolster a little jarring to the eye, a little blocky rather than flowing with the rest of the knife. Also, could the nail nick be placed closer to the tip?

I look forward to seeing more of your work!
 
I like it! It's just me but I would have ground off the screw holes to make it look pinned.
 
Personally, I dislike screw heads but I 'm sure others may like them on Traditionals. The nail nick is shallow and placed far back, this is presumably OK if the pull is light, you mention 3 which is really light, but were it to be stronger this knife would be very difficult to open.
 
Nice. I like the general shape. Your slots on your screws are boogered up though (at least one is). It's something I notice on firearms, so I was drawn to it. Generally, you should be using the correct sized hollow ground flat head screw driver and not a typical "house" screwdriver that is flat ground. Doing so will keep the slots crisp.

I'd like pins better. :)
 
Looks very nice. I too would prefer pins and maybe more rounding off in various places.
 
Epicurian said:
Nice work overall. My humble critique would be that I find the bolster a little jarring to the eye, a little blocky rather than flowing with the rest of the knife. Also, could the nail nick be placed closer to the tip?

I look forward to seeing more of your work!
Click to expand...
yes I concur, I will look at how to improve this and will modify this bolster
thanks
 
Woodrow F Call said:
Nice. I like the general shape. Your slots on your screws are boogered up though (at least one is). It's something I notice on firearms, so I was drawn to it. Generally, you should be using the correct sized hollow ground flat head screw driver and not a typical "house" screwdriver that is flat ground. Doing so will keep the slots crisp.

I'd like pins better. :)
Click to expand...
yes i see I missed replacing that screw,
I don't think this design lends itself to pins, at least I'm not sure how to do it?
the spring and blade are pinned to the SS liners, the jigged bone are scales covering all that
I can epoxy the scales and no pins or screws.
I'm not sure how to pin the scales to the liners after pinning the blade/spring.

thanks

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Dirty_Dan said:
Awesome work of art!! How long did it take?
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i batch process some parts so I have 2 more on the table from this batch.
I believe if I had the process down for this model and did it repeatedly it should take about 12 hours
I believe this one was about 12-16 hours working over the course of a week.
I wouldn't say I'm a slow maker, maybe just not very efficient.

thanks
 
Will Power said:
Personally, I dislike screw heads but I 'm sure others may like them on Traditionals. The nail nick is shallow and placed far back, this is presumably OK if the pull is light, you mention 3 which is really light, but were it to be stronger this knife would be very difficult to open.
Click to expand...
yes in this case the nick works fine due to the light pull, you can actually pull by pinching the blade.
however I agree the nick should be moved

thanks
 
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Your latest pictures showing the insides are very interesting. Good centre placing of the blade and cut-off of the spring, the bone slabs are nice and thick offering good comfort, well radiused too.

Thanks, Will
 
Its not easy to do (pin scales to the liners after assembly). You need a good "cutler's stiddy" which isn't easy to find these days. Its typically only done as a repair to a cracked handle, in an effort to avoid complete disassembly. The easier way is to join the liners to the bone before final assembly, but then you don't get the pins in the center of the bone like where your screws are. Instead they're at the flex point and the fixed butt end portion of the spring, and therefore at the outer edges of the bone. Often you will put at least one or two other (smaller) pins to secure the handle to the liners along with using epoxy. Yours is a technique often employed by better modern folder makers. I'm an Allen Elishewitz fan, and he always has all the "hold it together" fasteners hidden under the final handle materials, so that he can have the good looking, centered hardware be all that is visible on the assembled knife. Interesting to see it on a traditional.

It doesn't really bother me that the pin you used for the blade pivot point it isn't "ghosted" into the bolster the way most are. I'm guessing that bolster is nickel and your pin is stainless steel? But it looks to me like the pin you used for the blade pivot is a little on the small side. I tend to like to see a little bit more beef on that pin over the others. Just feels like a critical juncture subject to wear and where strength is needed when it is actually put to the task of cutting some stuff. What diameter pin stock did you use?

Otherwise looking good, keep at it and keep us posted on your progress!
 
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3-1-1 said:
Its not easy to do (pin scales to the liners after assembly). You need a good "cutler's stiddy" which isn't easy to find these days. Its typically only done as a repair to a cracked handle, in an effort to avoid complete disassembly. The easier way is to join the liners to the bone before final assembly, but then you don't get the pins in the center of the bone like where your screws are. Instead they're at the flex point and the fixed butt end portion of the spring, and therefore at the outer edges of the bone. Often you will put at least one or two other (smaller) pins to secure the handle to the liners along with using epoxy. Yours is a technique often employed by better modern folder makers. I'm an Allen Elishewitz fan, and he always has all the "hold it together" fasteners hidden under the final handle materials, so that he can have the good looking, centered hardware be all that is visible on the assembled knife. Interesting to see it on a traditional.

It doesn't really bother me that the pin you used for the blade pivot point it isn't "ghosted" into the bolster the way most are. I'm guessing that bolster is nickel and your pin is stainless steel? But it looks to me like the pin you used for the blade pivot is a little on the small side. I tend to like to see a little bit more beef on that pin over the others. Just feels like a critical juncture subject to wear and where strength is needed when it is actually put to the task of cutting some stuff. What diameter pin stock did you use?

Otherwise looking good, keep at it and keep us posted on your progress!
Click to expand...

bolster is silicon bronze which patinas nicely into a warm look.
the pin is 416 SS at 3/32"
silicon bronze pins are not common, I have alot of 1/16" pin stock myself

The 3/32" dia pin is how I was taught, of course I could use 1/8" or larger, but that can change the tang dimensions and overall size of the knife.
My personal opinion is that for a gentleman's style folder, that dia is appropriate and sufficient.
Seems like you understand how these things go together and while I can understand a wear point and strength requirement but I'm not really seeing it here as a practical concern.
But I can understand the desire for a larger diameter and I will try that in the future,

I have tried birdsyes in these recent prototypes as well

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thanks
 
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