slipjoint function question

tongueriver

tongueriver

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Dec 28, 2007
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I love this recent acquisition, but the "snap" is so powerful it is dangerous. It helps that it does have a half stop, but I have already lost some blood. What can I do?

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Keep your fingers out of the blade travel path for starters. Don't monkey fist the handle when you are opening or closing it......
 
Yeah...I got the brain part figured out 60 some-odd years ago. Is there anything that can be done with the knife?
 
tongueriver said:
Yeah...I got the brain part figured out 60 some-odd years ago. Is there anything that can be done with the knife?
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If the snap is too much for you at this juncture, you may wish to return it in exchange for another, and have the seller test a few for a lighter pull (not all retailers will agree to this, however). Otherwise, sell it here. Mechanically, there isn't much you can do to lighten a snap, although you CAN flush it thoroughly and see if it eases up at all first.
 
Honestly, I don't really like half stops, and I really don't like them when the knife closes with mucho gusto. The half stop can be jarring and lead to a cut. Half stop or not, with knives like that, I just ride them with my fingers gripped on the spine. No fanning them shut on my leg. Pinch 'em open, pinch 'em closed. Anything else is gonna probably wreck the action.
 
Steely_Gunz said:
Honestly, I don't really like half stops, and I really don't like them when the knife closes with mucho gusto. The half stop can be jarring and lead to a cut. Half stop or not, with knives like that, I just ride them with my fingers gripped on the spine. No fanning them shut on my leg. Pinch 'em open, pinch 'em closed. Anything else is gonna probably wreck the action.
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Agreed, I prefer a smooth predictable opening and closing. Now if we can get them to do away with half stops and match strike nail nicks I will be in heaven 😂
 
tongueriver said:
I love this recent acquisition, but the "snap" is so powerful it is dangerous. It helps that it does have a half stop, but I have already lost some blood. What can I do?
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I've heard some of the fellas say that leaving the knife with the blade part way open, such that the spring is distended to the maximum extent, for a couple of weeks, can sometimes help. But I've never tried it and and can't verify it as true.
 
tongueriver said:
I love this recent acquisition, but the "snap" is so powerful it is dangerous. It helps that it does have a half stop, but I have already lost some blood. What can I do?

View attachment 2966272View attachment 2966273View attachment 2966274
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I wanted to post a link to an older thread but I can’t find it in a search.
Somebody on this forum slid a flat head screwdriver between the mating surfaces of the blade tang and the backspring. He then pried upward on the backspring very carefully. He said it worked great but he also said he doesn’t recommend that anybody else try it due to the risk of snapping the spring in half.
knarfeng said:
I've heard some of the fellas say that leaving the knife with the blade part way open, such that the spring is distended to the maximum extent, for a couple of weeks, can sometimes help. But I've never tried it and and can't verify it as true.
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I tried this several years ago on one knife and nothing changed but I too have seen this mentioned more than once.
 
Thanks for all the tips. It is sitting 'half cocked' on a shelf now for awhile. If that doesn't work maybe I will try a gentle application of the screwdriver. But it is just going to sit at least until the snow flies and sticks.
 
Look closely- the spring is not flexed at all with the knife in the half stop position. Leaving it flexed would require leaving the knife in a very precarious "3/4 open or closed position." If the spring is properly made, using a screwdriver to pry it, or leaving the spring flexed won't do a thing.

There are 2 ways to lighten the snap. Both involve removing metal from the backspring. This can be done my grinding the back of the knife down a little at a time and trying the spring. The back of the knife has to be refinished after you are done. The knife could look funny before you get the spring weak enough.
The other way is to remove the (center) backspring pin, and remove metal from the inside of the spring. Then, the knife has to be pinned back together.
 
Close one handed?
Keeping fingers (and other things) out of the blade path with a secure grip
IMG_20250904_102057727.jpg
place the blade SPINE against side of thigh, move the handle to close the blade.

I've used this method for slipjoints for 65 years.
Safer than two hand closing, according to the previous 4 generations that taught me knife safety, and how to sharpen knives when I was 5 and received my first knife.
 
afishhunter said:
Close one handed?
Keeping fingers (and other things) out of the blade path with a secure grip
View attachment 2967796
place the blade SPINE against side of thigh, move the handle to close the blade.

I've used this method for slipjoints for 65 years.
Safer than two hand closing, according to the previous 4 generations that taught me knife safety, and how to sharpen knives when I was 5 and received my first knife.
Click to expand...
I was taught a very similar method, in the Boy Scouts, back in the late 1960s. But I do use two hands, most of the time.

I grip the knife exactly the way you show in your picture. Then, hold the knife with the cutting edge facing directly down, towards the ground. Place the palm of your free hand on the spine of the blade, and close the knife. I like to keep the fingers and thumb of my "closing hand" held together while doing this......sort of how you would hold your hand while saluting. Same principle as the "thigh method"....keep your fingers off of the closing blade.
 
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