Slipjoint geometry question, please help

[Heli00]

Good morning,

In order to have contact with the spring on two points, to eliminate any rocking of the blade in the open position, how should I go about?

I understand the half and closed position, just a bit confused about the open.

Do I grind an angle like in the dashed lines, 1 and 2, both?

Or only 2, or only 1?

Angles are exagerated just to show them better.

Thanks in advance.

 

[SBuzek]

I angle the front of he spring back abit, reason being when you load the spring it will deform into the gap. If you angle the blade the top of the spring will open up and be very hard to hide the junction. I also grind the tang as in picture 2

 

[Heli00]

I angle the front of he spring back abit, reason being when you load the spring it will deform into the gap. If you angle the blade the top of the spring will open up and be very hard to hide the junction. I also grind the tang as in picture 2

Thank you so much SBuzek !

Please have a bit of patience with me, would like to confirm I understand correctly.

Regarding the angle of the front of the spring, I assume is like in Picture 4, 3 doesn't make too much sense to me.

In picture 4, I showed the spine of the blade higher than the spring. If grinding the blade spine lower, to match the spring top, the angle of the spring top as you explained it, it won't show any gaps, even when grinding a bit of the spring top as well, correct?

Also, are you putting the angle 1 as well, or just a vertical line?

Thanks again.

 

[Sean Yaw]

Stan has far more experience with this than I do, but I put in angles 1, 2, and sometimes 4. I put in angles 1 and 2 right when I cut the spring notch and put in angle 4 later in the process, when I get the tip of the spring to line up as closely as I can to the corners of the tang at half and closed. I could be wrong about this, but I don't think you *need* both angles 1 and 4. I think you could get by with just one of them. Sometimes I don't put in angle 4 if things are lying where I like them.

 

[Heli00]

Stan has far more experience with this than I do, but I put in angles 1, 2, and sometimes 4. I put in angles 1 and 2 right when I cut the spring notch and put in angle 4 later in the process, when I get the tip of the spring to line up as closely as I can to the corners of the tang at half and closed. I could be wrong about this, but I don't think you *need* both angles 1 and 4. I think you could get by with just one of them. Sometimes I don't put in angle 4 if things are lying where I like them.

Great, thanks for your explanation.

Also, it makes sense to me I think to go with 1 & 2 at the beginning, as you explained, then adjust 4 perhaps as part of the blade angle position.

Again, just guessing here…

 

[Hengelo_77]

I've only made a good hand full of slipjoints but I recently started to make working templates from cheap paper micarta.
It realy helps to understand subtleties before you make them in steel

 

[SBuzek]

I use angles 2 and 4, a little bit of 1 doesn't hurt

 

[Heli00]

Excellent, thank you guys, much appreciated!

 

[Heli00]

I've only made a good hand full of slipjoints but I recently started to make working templates from cheap paper micarta.
It realy helps to understand subtleties before you make them in steel

I totally agree, I’ll do the same so not to waste steel. And also have a nice template for future knives, win, win!

thank you

 

[Heli00]

I use angles 2 and 4, a little bit of 1 doesn't hurt

Excellent, thank you, really appreciated!