- Joined
- Jun 20, 2006
- Messages
- 456
After talking to Mike Emler a few times, I'm going to see what I can do on a TSPROF with SM-100. As far as searches go, there aren't that many (if any) guides on dealing with SM-100, specifically the Ferrum Forge Stinger, using a guided system.
I aim to address that.
SM-100 probably doesn't belong in a folder because of it's "memory" properties, but given the upsides it was worth it to me.
A few considerations:
FIRST: The Stinger is probably the folder you would be working with. I don't know of many others. From what I measured using calipers, the Stinger tapers from 4.5mm at base to .01mm tip uniformly in that at our halfway mark the blade thickness is 2mm +/- .2mm
I would be interested if anyone thinks it'd be wiser to pick a spot to go from one angle to another instead of a gradual taper and I think that counterintuitively, it may need to be a bit thicker at the tip instead of the reverse). Again, I'm not going for "eyeballing it"- which I know would work ok- but to be as precise as possible since this is going to be my EDC and require sharpening a few times a year.
The second thing about SM-100 is a video that inevitably gets mentioned, where the takeaway is that the knife chipped- but it rarely gets mentioned how thin the grind was before it chipped. That video is linked below.
I'm paraphrasing to an extent here from this Gavko video often cited. He acknowledges he is abusing the edge by grinding to unheard of thinness and using it to chop:Keep in mind this was brought to "between 2 and 4 thousandths of an inch...
"Some people, they would not even take into consideration how thin it was... When you bring a knife to this thinness I knew there was going to be some failures. <Some people> would say "it broke", and that would be the end for them...It's really hard to imagine, you would never see a knife this thin... I wouldn't do this in public because it would create a bad name for something that would not deserve it yet..I'm not saying it's the best as they claim it is, but it looks like it's going to be... "
Emler and I arrived independently at the same number regarding a best guess at sharpening angle- we both felt that something around 13-13.5 would be appropriate.
A few other points:
* Do NOT try and use diamonds or even CBN (cubic boron nitride)- they will load up immediately.
*Don't use ceramic stones
*Don't start any finer than 400 grit,
*silicon carbide or aluminum oxide is the way to go.
*the thermal properties of titanium should be considered- I'm not 100% sure what to make of this, but in extremes like below zero or above 100 (conditions that it wouldn't be unheard of to encounter if you are hunting or live in the desert), you might encounter some odd behavior.
I'll keep you posted- I want to get some opinions on the taper before I jump in.
I aim to address that.
SM-100 probably doesn't belong in a folder because of it's "memory" properties, but given the upsides it was worth it to me.
A few considerations:
FIRST: The Stinger is probably the folder you would be working with. I don't know of many others. From what I measured using calipers, the Stinger tapers from 4.5mm at base to .01mm tip uniformly in that at our halfway mark the blade thickness is 2mm +/- .2mm
I would be interested if anyone thinks it'd be wiser to pick a spot to go from one angle to another instead of a gradual taper and I think that counterintuitively, it may need to be a bit thicker at the tip instead of the reverse). Again, I'm not going for "eyeballing it"- which I know would work ok- but to be as precise as possible since this is going to be my EDC and require sharpening a few times a year.
The second thing about SM-100 is a video that inevitably gets mentioned, where the takeaway is that the knife chipped- but it rarely gets mentioned how thin the grind was before it chipped. That video is linked below.
I'm paraphrasing to an extent here from this Gavko video often cited. He acknowledges he is abusing the edge by grinding to unheard of thinness and using it to chop:Keep in mind this was brought to "between 2 and 4 thousandths of an inch...
"Some people, they would not even take into consideration how thin it was... When you bring a knife to this thinness I knew there was going to be some failures. <Some people> would say "it broke", and that would be the end for them...It's really hard to imagine, you would never see a knife this thin... I wouldn't do this in public because it would create a bad name for something that would not deserve it yet..I'm not saying it's the best as they claim it is, but it looks like it's going to be... "
Emler and I arrived independently at the same number regarding a best guess at sharpening angle- we both felt that something around 13-13.5 would be appropriate.
A few other points:
* Do NOT try and use diamonds or even CBN (cubic boron nitride)- they will load up immediately.
*Don't use ceramic stones
*Don't start any finer than 400 grit,
*silicon carbide or aluminum oxide is the way to go.
*the thermal properties of titanium should be considered- I'm not 100% sure what to make of this, but in extremes like below zero or above 100 (conditions that it wouldn't be unheard of to encounter if you are hunting or live in the desert), you might encounter some odd behavior.
I'll keep you posted- I want to get some opinions on the taper before I jump in.