Small Sebenza late lockup?

N

Nottynuffknives

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Jul 22, 2017
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So I just bought this small Sebenza 21 from Knivesshipfree.com and this is how the lockup is out of the box.... sort of.

What I mean is, I was so damn excited when I took it out of the box, and immediately took out the lanyard that I can't remember exactly what the lockup was before I disassembled it. So I'm not 100% sure if this is from me putting it back together poorly? Or if it came like this. I've taken it apart twice now, and on the second time I put it back together the recommended way (I believe). Still seems pretty deep.

But then I see different forums with the same concerns and some people respond saying that that's normal, or that's just how CRK makes them now. What do you guys think? Where was your lockup when you first bought yours? This to me looks like about 85%..

rdUAGRX.jpg
 
Lots of CRKs have late lockup. Nothing to be alarmed about - the framelock is the Reeve integral lock; and if Reeve prefers the later lockup, why worry about the internet's obsession with early.?
 
Looks fine to me. I don’t really understand the hang up with “early” lock up anyway.
 
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View attachment 908053 My comments would be similar- that's probably okay. For reference, in one of the "Maintenance" videos Tim Reeve has on their YouTube channel, he states that their goal for ideal lockup is when the chamfer on the lock bar aligns with the inside edge of the frame. Here is how close yours comes:
 
Wavicle said:
My comments would be similar- that's probably okay. For reference, in one of the "Maintenance" videos Tim Reeve has on their YouTube channel, he states that their goal for ideal lockup is when the chamfer on the lock bar aligns with the inside edge of the frame. Here is how close yours comes:

View attachment 908048
Click to expand...


That's very interesting, thank you for that. That definitely makes me feel better.
 
Here's a new small 21 Tanto I just received last week. It's probably been opened about 40 or 50 times in that week. Knife has not been disassembled. Looks the same as yours and I don't have any concerns. I also don't fidget flick my CRKs.

View attachment 908058
 
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Mine is five years old . I also have a new in the box . My older edc is a little less than the new one .
I use a common coin to check it . Penny or a dime. Just use it as a go or no go gauge.
Also if you look at the blade at the back . Where the lock bar engages the blade . Over time or rather openings, it becomes smooth. All most a super polish job . Mine is carried all day . So keeping that angle on the blade clean is a good idea. I wipe mine on regular basis with a paper towel.

Jake
 
What I've learned:
Late lock up is better. I've sent 3 out of 8 knives back already to CRK because I bought them here used and their blades were not solidly locking up. Even though 1 had a birthdate from only a few months ago. What I found is people tend to open them up first thing (probably because the come with an allen wrench and grease) Then they reassemble them incorrectly and potentially pinch the washers and wonder why their blade does not center anymore?

Worse yet, they bend the lockbar to lessen the pressure, so they can "flick" their knife easier when these knives are not designed to be flickers. Once that lockbar pressure is changed and you "flick" the knife open hard it tends to give a late lockup. But if you don't flick it the lock up is normal again.

But I found an early lockup is dangerous. This can also be a sign that the lockbar pressure was altered by the previous owner. The proof of that is just look at your lockup, if very its early . . . then turn the knife over and rap the spine of the blade on a table or hard surface. The 3 I had to send back the blades all released immediately upon rapping the spine even lightly on the table (put a magazine down before you rap it on a good table).

I guarantee those 3 never left the factory like that.

Knowing now and what I've leaned by experience I should have sent them back to the sellers. CRK may not warranty a knife if they decide it was altered. And even if they do it costs you postage to send it in to them, $17.50 for them to return it back to you and you lose it for 5 to 8 weeks. So that sweet price you just paid, turns out to be not so sweet anymore.

So late lock up in my opinion, is at least a lot safer than early. Most CRK's have the lock up in the area of the OP's picture and this is normal. Just be very careful if your lockup is showing very early as that blade probably won't be solidly locked in place.

Thats almost 50% of the 8 used CRK knives I bought here arrived with unsafe early lock up.

Here is an example of a knife I bought here with a very early lock up. Its a Rike. Some knives are designed with early lock up. I don't know if this brand is one of them? So far its holding, but it makes me nervous just looking at it. When looking at the lockup from the bottom side of the knife (2nd pic) it looks a little better. But I'm going to send these pics to Rike C/S to get their opinion. It has to go back to China if they say it needs to be adjusted!

If you have a CRK with a very early lock up, send it back for a Spa treatment like the 3 I had to send back.


IMG_6693.jpeg IMG_6696.jpeg
 
Even if it was at 100% and touching the other side it would not affect functionality, just make the knife almost impossible to slip and close on your fingers.The only thing late lockup affects is our OCD and obsession with our hobby. Use it and enjoy.
 
I have had my Umnumzaan since 2009 with very similar lock up and I honestly don't think it has changed. Have fun with it.
 
expidia1 said:
What I've learned:
Late lock up is better. I've sent 3 out of 8 knives back already to CRK because I bought them here used and their blades were not solidly locking up. Even though 1 had a birthdate from only a few months ago. What I found is people tend to open them up first thing (probably because the come with an allen wrench and grease) Then they reassemble them incorrectly and potentially pinch the washers and wonder why their blade does not center anymore?

Worse yet, they bend the lockbar to lessen the pressure, so they can "flick" their knife easier when these knives are not designed to be flickers. Once that lockbar pressure is changed and you "flick" the knife open hard it tends to give a late lockup. But if you don't flick it the lock up is normal again.

But I found an early lockup is dangerous. This can also be a sign that the lockbar pressure was altered by the previous owner. The proof of that is just look at your lockup, if very its early . . . then turn the knife over and rap the spine of the blade on a table or hard surface. The 3 I had to send back the blades all released immediately upon rapping the spine even lightly on the table (put a magazine down before you rap it on a good table).

I guarantee those 3 never left the factory like that.

Knowing now and what I've leaned by experience I should have sent them back to the sellers. CRK may not warranty a knife if they decide it was altered. And even if they do it costs you postage to send it in to them, $17.50 for them to return it back to you and you lose it for 5 to 8 weeks. So that sweet price you just paid, turns out to be not so sweet anymore.

So late lock up in my opinion, is at least a lot safer than early. Most CRK's have the lock up in the area of the OP's picture and this is normal. Just be very careful if your lockup is showing very early as that blade probably won't be solidly locked in place.

Thats almost 50% of the 8 used CRK knives I bought here arrived with unsafe early lock up.

Here is an example of a knife I bought here with a very early lock up. Its a Rike. Some knives are designed with early lock up. I don't know if this brand is one of them? So far its holding, but it makes me nervous just looking at it. When looking at the lockup from the bottom side of the knife (2nd pic) it looks a little better. But I'm going to send these pics to Rike C/S to get their opinion. It has to go back to China if they say it needs to be adjusted!

If you have a CRK with a very early lock up, send it back for a Spa treatment like the 3 I had to send back.


View attachment 908719 View attachment 908720
Click to expand...

The spine whack test is very controversial at best and useless at worst
Words from Chris:"What is the purpose of a spine whack test? Folding knives are designed to cut when the blade is open. They are designed to be stored when the blade is closed. They are not designed to be hit on the back of the blade, or to be used as hammers. I assume there is some theory that this will test the strength of a lock but it is a test with no valid function."

Ti flexes, so I am not shocked that a ti lock can be compromised by a whack on the spine. It is one of the give and takes of metal choice.
 
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A spine whack fail has nothing to do with anything 'flexing'. Crk frames are a bit thicker than your average Toaks titanium cup.
Spine whacking is stupid, but it does show the viability (or not) of the lockface geometry. If its a proper union for the materials, then a spine whack wont cause the lock to slip. If it's a poorly chosen set of angles, then the 'pulse' of energy inflicted on the union of blade lockface and lockbar will overcome the friction keeping them from sliding apart under force. If small pulse against an unsupported lockbar (your hand isnt holding it in it's loaded position as a normal use grip) will slip it, then its not optimal geometry. Holding a frame lock properly and hitting the spine should never cause it to unlock. Your hand should hold the lockbar in place. The test is asinine internet acrobatics, but it does illustrate 'something'. Even if it is useless.
I feel it can be an almost valid test for a liner lock, but not a frame lock. In the liner lock, you dont really have any reinforcement to the lock offered by your grip, so the geometry is a bit more important there. I think.

Early lockup is stupid. I can't think of a time where I looked at any safety device and thought: "boy, I wish that were less engaged.."
 
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