Small tools for PSK's

Joined
Dec 22, 2006
Messages
2,194
I got out the camera and got some shots of tools I've come across lately. I wanted to see what I could add to use with a knife to get features I might find in a multi-tool.

Here's the County Comm Micro Widgy Prybar with paracord pants. I gutted the cord to get a thinner effect on the grip:

prybar.jpg


Today, I went to my favorite tool store in Seattle, Hardwicks. They have every hand tool you can imagine and more. If you get to Seattle, this place is a must see. There are glass cases full of great stuff and all kinds of items literally hanging from the ceiling.

I came up with a thin file for $5. I was trying to modify it and ended up with a good striker for a Firesteel, but not much file. I was trying to Dremel a hole for a lanyard and pushed too hard and snapped it off. I did take a "before" picture. What I was after was to get rid of the tail (managed that easy enough), smooth the bottom a bit and drill a hole for a lanyard. I'll have to get another and try again. If you have a good way to make a small hole in a file, let me know! It's a 4" file, bastard cut and called a Warding file, traditionally used by locksmiths. It's about 1/8" thick, very light (0.5oz), and cuts on the edge too.

file.jpg


I spread some stuff out on the dining room table to get a shot:

tools.jpg


At 12:00 is a Dermasafe folding razor, sold by County Comm. They were developed for a disposable surgical prep razor. They are SHARP so they need to be used with care. I wonder about putting one in a PSK as I might do more damage than good with one. If you want to field dress a frog or a mouse, this is the tool! They make a hacksaw just like the razor. I have one-- somewhere, but couldn't find it. I wouldn't want to do a lot of cutting with the hacksaw version, but it is a decent quality blade. It would make a great firesteel striker.

The black cylinder is a tiny Fisher Space pen, a Stowaway. It's not refillable and it about as light as it gets unless you use a bare refill. It goes great with a Write in the Rain mini notebook.

The tweezers to the left of the pen are from AG Russell and have a little lanyard mount. They are designed to chase ticks and slivers. I bout a used pack and found them in the pocket-- they work.

There's a good ol' P-38 can opener there next to the tweezers. If we're going to emulate a multi-tool, here's the can opener.

2:00, a Buck Hartsook. I think they have good qualities for a backup for a larger knife and basic cutting chores. Like others have said here, it's the stone flake for the 21st century. 0.5oz of S30V :cool: Note the homemade fob and the orange County Comm LED microlight on the sheath that sells for a buck. The neck lanyard is gutted paracord lightly stitched together so it won't hang me on a branch.

Fiskars embroidery scissors. This is where the light bulb came on for me: if you have a knife you like and it lacks scissors, BUY SOME %^&* SCISSORS. These weigh 0.7oz and I bought them in a flea market for $1. Now I don't need to replace my Trekker for a knife with scissors and these cut well and are easier to use than ones tucked into a multitool handle.

To the left of the Fiskars are a pair of Pakistani-made hemostats. Handy little tool, 0.5oz, and $1.50 at my favorite tool store. If you don't need or want big pliers, these might float your boat. Like having another hand when trying to tie small line, clamp for glueing, or pulling nose hairs. :eek:

The small knife is a Boker Subcom in Desert Tan. Next one will be a Wharcom, but still a handy little knife. I have a Trance too. The flat design really lends itself to packing.

Above the Boker is another try at a file. I had and old Nicholson I picked up at a garage sale and it was pretty easy to set it in a vice and trim the length by snapping it with a hammer. I went for 4" to leave enough meat to hang onto. I smoothed up the snapped edge on my belt sander. It needs a lanyard hole. The weight is 0.9oz. The Warding file would weigh less than half that, but this one would take a lot more abuse. Another good Firesteel striker here.

Above the file is a Victorinox stainless serrated paring knife. 3.5" blade, 0.5oz, and cost is $3 new. Razor sharp and dirt cheap, it's a perfect PSK companion to a larger knife and suited to repairs, food prep, and cleaning fish and small game. It has a handle you can actually get a good grip on. Commercial fishing supplies sell them by the case and they have cordura and kydex sheaths available-- which cost far more than the knives. They come in a plastic slip case that I think goes with PSK use and the weight and cost of the knife.


The lighter is a Colibri CX Gear Windproof. Refillable, piezo electric ignition, water resisatnt and has a heated element to keep it going in a hurricane.

The pliers at 6:00 are a pair of Swiss-Tech's. They are a multi-tool in themselves, but they are the best option I could find for a good screwdriver. I'm looking for a non-magnetic handle that will take 1/4" bits. I don't put any magnetic devices in my wilderness gear to avoid any problems with compasses. I have a couple knives that need to be kept clear of my compass when taking a bearing. Getting back to the Swiss-Tech's-- they would make a nice simple paring with a fixed blade. Imagine a mora and the Swiss-Tech for a nice little set. I do question needing a screwdriver in the wilderness unless you have equipment that may need it. The small prybar would probably fulfill most wilderness use for a screwdriver-- prying and scraping.

The 4LN Vise Grips were another perceptual stretch-- they only weigh 3.5oz. I had thought of them as heavier. I use 6oz as a dead average for multi-tools, so this could be used with several other small tools and still be under the weight of say, a Gerber 400. If you want pliers, what's better than some Vice Grips? They're only $11-$12.

The green-handled slipjoint pliers are Diamond model K-14; they weigh just 1.9oz and are 4-3/4" long. Sadly, Diamond has gone out of business. You can get baby Chanellocks too. Again, if you just need pliers, you can get something like this.

I forgot to include an emory board. Cheap and easy to find, they are a light and quick and dirty way to get an abrasive in your PSK.
 
Interesting file idea. You might try chucking up a nail in a drill press and trying to drill through the area you want to put a hole in. You end up spot annealing it. Then you may be able to drill it.
 
Dale, thanks for posting the pic of your mini-tools.

For drilling your file, if you go to the woodworking show at Puyallup fairgrounds this weekend, check out the carbide tipped drill bits from Bad Dog Tools. They demo the bits easily cutting through files, ceramic, hardened steel tools, etc. The team at the shows usually only sell kits of multiple bits, but you can order single bits by calling the company back east. Telephone (401) 253-1330

I've used one of their 1/8" size drill bits in a cordless hammer-drill to pre-drill concrete slab, leaning on it pretty heavily, and it smoothly & rather quickly sank into the hardened concrete. After the concrete work, the carbide tip is surely not as sharp as it originally was, but it will still easily drill 2x framing material.

All their tools are over-engineered (drill bits, cut-off disks, metal nibbler, router bits, etc) and their warranty is basically "If you kill it, we'll replace it". I wore out a few of their cut-off disks trying to cut titanium. Bad Dog readily sent me replacement disks when I sent in the remains of the mounting hubs, which was all that was left of the disks after the titanium wore them away.

I think of Bad Dog as being the Busse Knives of the tool world..... chunky & not pretty at all, but nearly indestructible and high on the "go to" list of tools to reach for when the going *WILL* be ugly and performance is going to really count.
 
The Stowaway is refillable.

Press the point down on a hard surface until the endcap comes out, bringing the cartridge with it. Replace the endcap on the refill, and insert.
 
The Stowaway is refillable.

Press the point down on a hard surface until the endcap comes out, bringing the cartridge with it. Replace the endcap on the refill, and insert.

I haven't worn mine out yet and I'm greatful for this info. Sometimes you just need to ignore the package and use your noodle! Thanks!
 
Dale, interesting post. I'm glad my wife didn't see this before I told her I "needed" my third new multitool for the year. :)
 
Okay, I got another warding file and rather than trying to bore a hole through it for a lanyard, I used my belt grinder to make some inlets to help retain a 1" paracord wrap.

Here's the orginal warding file. BTW, it's more like 1/16" thick. You can flex it with your fingers.
file.jpg



I also got a more standard 4" mill file that is about 1/8" thick. I removed the tangs from both and the mill file is a little shorter than the warding file. In this shot, you can see both edge-on with a US quarter coin for comparison.
files.jpg


In this photo the tangs have been removed and you can see the inlets for the paracord.
files2.jpg



The files with pants and the County Comm Micro Widgy prybar for comparison.
files3.jpg


And the files with my SAS golok. The files are for touching up machetes and axes in the field as well as general repairs and improvising. They make excellent Firesteel strikers too.
golok2.jpg
 
Even in this age of the electronic ignition, ignition points files are still carried by many auto parts stores. They are left very hard since the ignition points they are meant to dress are very hard.
 
Even in this age of the electronic ignition, ignition points files are still carried by many auto parts stores. They are left very hard since the ignition points they are meant to dress are very hard.

I sold parts for many years and that crossed my mind-- never thought about the hardness issue. They usually have a nice lollipop kind of handle too.
 
Back
Top