Small wheel: Steel vs Rubber

oceanrider

oceanrider

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I'm thinking of picking up the steel small wheel set from Reeder.

What do you like better Steel small wheels or Rubber small wheels?

Or do you like having both?

And if I did get the Reeder small wheel attachment, since they only sell steel wheels, are there others that sell rubber wheels that fit the Reeder small wheel attachment?
 
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oceanrider said:
I'm thinking of picking up the steel small wheel set from Reeder.

What do you like better Steel small wheels or Rubber small wheels?

Or do you like having both?

And if I did get the Reeder small wheel attachment, since they only sell steel wheels, are there others that sell rubber wheels that fit the Reeder small wheel attachment?
Click to expand...
Steel is ok, but will feel bouncy compared to rubber.

Grind on your 2" steel wheel over your platen to get an idea.

I don't have a small wheel set up, I've wondered it I needed one, idk?
I hang the belt off my platen and ride it's edge for tighter radii
 
I have both and prefer the rubber.

You can rubber coat steel wheels by gluing on a sleeve of rubber the right ID. I bet Sunray could coat them, too.

Since I wasn't using the steel wheels, I experimented with covering three of the steel wheels.
I ordered firm rubber tubing in three sizes of ID to cover the 1/4". 1/2", and 3/4" steel wheels. I used RTV and lots of pressure to get them on the wheels. After the glue dried, I trimmed them flush with the end of the wheel rod. What I got was roughly a 1/2", 3/4", and 1" rubber wheel. They worked fine. I gave them to Steve with the Bader.

A machinist friend made his own by drilling a hole through a hi durometer rubber rod and inserting/gluing a hardened steel shaft he turned to accept the two bearings. He then turned the rubber down on the lathe to the desired sizes.
 
Anyone know where to get rubber wheels that fit the Reeder small wheel holder attachment? I assume there is a specific width and bearing used.
 
The best setup is buying the holder and wheels as a set. Since this is a seldom used item. it can be what you find on the internet. They all fit a standard tool arm as far as I have seen.

If Greg had them in rubber coated I would buy a set of his to try out.

CAUTION:
small wheels turn really fast. Run the grinder slower ... like 1/4th speed or less ... or you will get burning. I suspect it isn't good on the bearings either.
 
Thanks to all for your input.

Last question. What would be the best overall durometer rubber for small wheels?
 
Speaking of bearings, years ago I bought a 1/8" dia. steel wheel set from Tru-Grit. I think it was called the "Rand Dandy". I put it on my grinder and ran it at full speed, and the bearings burned up in a very short time. I contacted Tru-Grit and they told me the wheel needed to be run at a slow speed to save the bearings. They offered to give me my money back, but I was so impressed by their honesty that I didn't accept a re-fund.
Another thing, the splice bump was so pronounced on the 1/8" dia. steel, that it was pretty much worthless.
 
I don't think durometer really matters with a small wheel, but 70-90 would be the range that works -best.

In suspect that nylon or UHMW would work fine for making them yourself.
 
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Anyone here get just the Reeder attachment and then buy rubber small wheels elsewhere? Or is there another attachment that fits the Reeder and comes with rubber small wheels at a good price. I talked to Greg and he said USA-Knifemaker but they are out of stock of all sizes they sell and the price per wheel seems at the high end.
 
I also prefer rubber. Much more forgiving. I only go steel on the smallest rollers where rubber isn’t an option. I use and recommend Brodbeck small wheels.
 
I got the wheels and attachment from KMG when I bought the grinder from them. They are rubber and have held up well so far.

One tip I do have is to not drop them in your water bucket. They get noisy after that.
 
Also with small wheels/bearings..... go with the thinnest ply belt you can find. It will put less force on your bearing.
Stiff, ridged belts don't bend easily, wearing out bearings.
 
The grinder doesn't care whose small wheels it has on the tool arm.

Buy a small wheel attachment and wheel set ... say from KMG ... and attach it to a tool arm ... and put it on your Reeder.
Bader, Reeder, and KMG all take 1.5" square tool arms. You can order the tool arm from the source of the small wheel attachment to make things simpler.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
The grinder doesn't care whose small wheels it has on the tool arm.

Buy a small wheel attachment and wheel set ... say from KMG ... and attach it to a tool arm ... and put it on your Reeder.
Bader, Reeder, and KMG all take 1.5" square tool arms. You can order the tool arm from the source of the small wheel attachment to make things simpler.
Click to expand...
Already got coming in the mail the Reeder and their steel wheels with a 23" bar. So at this point I will be adding rubber wheels to the mix. Just that Greg only mentioned USAknifemaker as a source for rubberwheels. I was just wondering if there were others that will fit the Reeder attachment.
 
i have been finding i like a harder small wheel when finishing full tangs with scales on them. rubber can flex a bit and leave the tang proud of the scales. im talking grits up to 800. i use rubber smalls when im just shaping bare tangs to save the life of the steel wheels
 
butcher_block said:
i have been finding i like a harder small wheel when finishing full tangs with scales on them. rubber can flex a bit and leave the tang proud of the scales. im talking grits up to 800. i use rubber smalls when im just shaping bare tangs to save the life of the steel wheels
Click to expand...
THIS
 
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