smaller drive wheel for the KMG?

Joined
Nov 1, 2005
Messages
174
Hi folks,

I'm trying my hand at doing some sharpening on my KMG (slack belt on horizontal
section of the belt above the platen) and find the the belt speed is too fast for
my liking. I'm got the poor-man's version of a variable speed setup, using the triple
pulley system, and cannot get the belt speed below 800fps.

My question: has anyone tried installing a smaller drive wheel in lieu of the 4" that
come with the KMG? I think Rob mentioned something about this to me sometime back
and was just wondering if anyone has tried this, and/or if Rob makes something like
a 2 or 3"?

Many thanks,
Dana Hackney
Monument, CO
 
Hi Dana,
Are you useing;2" 3" 4" step pullys on your K.M.G.?
This is the set up I use and find the speed to be just about rite on the slowest speed.
I think you'll find sharpening on the platen will give you better control than working on the slack belt area.
I use small wooden wedges, covered with leather, to find the rite angle on the platen. I have three wedges cut at 10, 12 and 14 degrees.
Start the machine, set the wedge lightly on the moving belt with one hand, rest the blade atop the wedge, remove the wedge and sharpen blade. Simple but effective. Fred :thumbup:
 
That is exactly what I'm using a 2,3,4" pulley setup.

I'm kind of dense and am having trouble picturing the way you position your
wedges. Also, does this work for putting a convex edge on a flat ground
blade, ground to a very thin edge?

Thanks a lot, Fred,
Dana
 
Dana Hackney said:
That is exactly what I'm using a 2,3,4" pulley setup.

I'm kind of dense and am having trouble picturing the way you position your
wedges. Also, does this work for putting a convex edge on a flat ground
blade, ground to a very thin edge?

Thanks a lot, Fred,

Dana

Dana,
If you are flat grinding and taking it down to a fine edge before you sharpen the blade, I ask the question; why do you need a convex edge? Or actually, is it possible to put a convex edge on so thin a cross section. This is how I flat grind also, the blade is almost sharp when I finish grinding. All I really need to do is make a couple of passes on a 400grit belt and then go to the ceramic sticks to finish the edge. I hope these pics give you a better idea of the use of these wedges. Even the simplest of jigs are best explained with a picture or two. Sorry about the confusion. Fred
 

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Fred

A question, is the belt turning toward you and using the platen ,do you have to worry about getting the blade to hot?
 
Ricky D. Finch said:
Fred

A question, is the belt turning toward you and using the platen ,do you have to worry about getting the blade to hot?
:D Hi Ricky, The belt moves toward me. There is no heat issue at this slow a speed. I use a very light touch when sharpening a blade. The weight of the knife itself is plenty. I get a very uniform edge using the wedges. I used a diamond stone to establish my edges for about a year. I found this took up a lot of time. When using the KMG I might give each side one pass on a 220 a.o. belt if the edge has not already been established with the flat grind. If not a couple of passes with a 400 grit belt followed by a no# 16 trizact belt will make it keen. Remove the wire edge as you see fit. Every one has their own technique. Fred
 
This makes sense to me now. I'll do some practicing before I try this on
my finished products.

Best regards,
Dana
 
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