Smatchet blade dimensions?

Joined
Aug 17, 2006
Messages
5
Hi guys, newbie to the forums although I have 'lurked' and enjoyed the information provided by this forum as it has assisted me in decision making regarding purchases.

I am wondering if someone can provide me with information regarding the blade shape dimensions of the original Smatchet of WWII fame?

I have a CS Smatchet machete that I would like to re-shape to more closely match the original's profile.
In comparing photos of the original vs the CS, to me it seems that the CS is longer and the curvature is slimmer near the choil with the maximum width at a greater distance (being closer to the point).
Forgive me as I'm relatively new to the blade geometry aspects and likely not explaining myself properly.

I saw one that an experienced knifemaker had done, can't find the photo now (of course) to post here, but it really captured what I want to attempt.

I have tried to eyeball my desired outline with a marker, but just can't quite get the profile I'm trying to achieve.

I'm also thinking about removing the black finish and perhaps trying a forced patina as well having had minor success doing this with a CS Trail Hawk I'm still working on.

Any help, particularly pictures with measurements would be awesome (pictures are my friend:)

All the best

Tb
 
Alas, but I find the very photo I was referring to posted right on this forum by Bill Siegle on 09-11-2014 LOL.
I remember now reading how he stated he wasn't taking orders for it, but I always thought the modifications brought out the best for the CS model.
A belated thanks to Bill for taking the time to post and provide, at least me, with some inspiration to go for it:)

Tb
 
Ideally, you need need access to an original but if modifying a reproduction, the typical issues are the distal taper. Unfortunately most reproductions of any swords often lack the thickness of stock used in period. As an example Arms&Armor has reground a few British 1796 lc sabers. While a step up from the stock items, that fails to meet the qualities of how originals handle. That, as the reproduction sword is around 3/16' stock vs a period sword that might be as thick as 5/16" or even 3/8" (and more) at the base and reducing to 1/16" or less at the point.

Start with thickness measurements at various parts of the CS. If it is more or less a linear distal taper (or none at all), you want to consider moving mass back towards the hilt. The original smatchets may or may not have a great deal of distal but if your object is to make it feel more lively, a shallow concave distal will reduce the distal quickly within a couple of inches from the hilt and then in a more linear taper to the point, perhaps leaving it as thick at the widest as the point (for that type of profile and use).

Cheers

GC
 
Thanks for that response and info horseclover, always appreciate input from others more knowledgeable than I am. :)
 
Time to go get a huge piece of S7 and a small loan for all the belts I'd need to grind it down...
One day...
One day...
 
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