Smiths sharpening system

[mdc5162]

Ok, I bought a smiths diamond sharpening system a couple days ago and it works great. The 3rd knife I sharpened with it I was able to get a somewhat mirror polish. I say somewhat because It reflected things back at me clearly but there are still some interruptions and I have seen better polishes on this forum and youtube. The knife was about 10 inches long and had chips in the blade.

I used a cheap course flat stone to get out the chips then Smiths system, from course diamond to fine diamond to fine arkansas ( I think 350 grit, 750 grit, 1000 grit).

Does anyone know if there are any more higher grit level attachments for the Smiths system? maybe 2000 grit? Looked on a couple sites but could not find any. Also, it seems the Lansky system has 1 stone higher grit then he Smiths system. I say seems because I cant find any grits to go along with the Lansky stones. Does anyone know the Lansky grits? Or if a Lanksy stone attachment will work with a Smiths rod?

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

A very simple, and inexpensive solution (possibly), would be to just wrap a piece of wet/dry sandpaper around your fine hone (use one with a smooth surface, instead of one of the interrupted surface hones). Something like 2000 grit (maybe 1000) would likely give you a pretty good polish. Others have adapted this technique to the Sharpmaker and other devices, I think. Just use very light pressure (as is good practice anyway), to avoid cutting/tearing the sandpaper.

Regarding Lansky grits, I suspect the part numbers on the Lansky hones might reflect that. For instance, the 'UltraFine' ceramic Lansky hone is part# LSS1000 (1000 grit), and the Lansky 'Super Sapphire' polishing hone is LSS2000 (2000 grit). However, in this case, I think it's all moot. The attachment mechanism (rod to hone) is different between the Smith's and the Lansky. At the very least, if you tried to adapt it, there would be a height (offset) difference between the rod and the hone's surface, which would result in a different angle when placed into the clamp. I don't think it'd work well, if at all.

 

[mdc5162]

Thats and interesting thought and you are probably right. That would put their extra course, course, and medium hones at 70, 120, and 280.

I see your point with the different angles. On the Lansky site they also sell replacement guide rods, so maybe with the purchase of the guide rod and the super sapphire hone it would work properly.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

Thats and interesting thought and you are probably right. That would put their extra course, course, and medium hones at 70, 120, and 280.

I see your point with the different angles. On the Lansky site they also sell replacement guide rods, so maybe with the purchase of the guide rod and the super sapphire hone it would work properly.

I'm not sure that buying a guide rod with a Lansky hone would help. The difference in offset that I referred to, is the difference between how each system's hones are set up. The Lansky's hones are set up to use the 'L' end of the rod mounted to the hone, with the vertical part of the 'L' inserted upward into the 'arm' of the hone. That setup generally is used with the long portion of the rod at the same level as the working surface of the hone. In other words, if you laid the Lansky hone on the table (face down), with it's rod attached, the rod would (should) lay flush on the counter with the hone. Both the rod and the hone are in the same plane, from end-to-end.

On the other hand, it looks as if the rod for the Smith's hone is inserted (screwed) into a threaded hole on the end of the hone's holder. The long end of the rod sits at a level which is parallel to, but ABOVE the level of the hone's working surface. Laying this hone on the table, the rod would be above the table (not flush). There's an offset difference there. The rod and hone aren't in the same plane. Even if you had the Lansky hone with it's dedicated rod, it wouldn't match the offset of the Smith's hone with it's rod. If you used the Smith's hones up to a point, then switched to the Lansky hone, I'm pretty sure they wouldn't match up, with regard to the angle. You'd need to either use the Smith's hones from start to finish, or the Lansky's hones from start to finish, to maintain the same angle.

Because of the way the Lansky rod is mounted in it's hone, there's a LITTLE bit of vertical leeway for adjustment, but not likely enough to match up with the offset of the Smith's rod & hone.

By the way, I have the Lansky and GATCO systems. The differences between these two are the same as what I've described above, for the same reason. The GATCO rods are inserted into the end of the hone at an offset height (like the Smith's), above the plane of the hone's working surface. If they're used in the same clamp, they'll sit at different angles, due to the difference in offset.

I know this seems long-winded, but it's important to understand the differences between the two.

 

[mdc5162]

That is a very good explanation and I get what you mean by sitting at different planes. I just didnt pick that up from the pictures of the system. Thank you for taking the time to write that out. Since you have the lansky system do you have the super sapphire hone? Do any lansky hones produce mirror finishes?

It seems Smiths doent make a higher grit hone. Depending on the cost of other polishing stones I eventually might buy the lansky clamp, super sapphire and rod for a total of under 30 bucks. I would hope but could be wrong that 20 degree angle on the smiths would be equal to the 20 degree on the lansky. Or I might try a strop and a compound, all in time I guess.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

That is a very good explanation and I get what you mean by sitting at different planes. I just didnt pick that up from the pictures of the system. Thank you for taking the time to write that out. Since you have the lansky system do you have the super sapphire hone? Do any lansky hones produce mirror finishes?

I don't have the super sapphire. However, the UF Lansky hone (white ceramic in yellow holder) will put a mirror finish on the edges. In fact, the Fine hone (purple ceramic in blue holder) will even put the beginning touches of a polish on the blade. I have a knife or two (or twelve) that I've done with my Lansky kit, up to the UF hone.

It seems Smiths doent make a higher grit hone. Depending on the cost of other polishing stones I eventually might buy the lansky clamp, super sapphire and rod for a total of under 30 bucks. I would hope but could be wrong that 20 degree angle on the smiths would be equal to the 20 degree on the lansky. Or I might try a strop and a compound, all in time I guess.

It'll be VERY difficult to duplicate the exact angle between the two setups, going from the coarse/medium/fine on the Smith's to the finishing hone on the Lansky. Just moving the knife from one clamp to the other will likely change everything (positioning is extremely critical). If you really do want the super sapphire hone from Lansky, you might just give some thought to buying a complete kit, or enough hones that'll allow you to go from start to finish on one setup, without changing mid-stream. For a while, I actually used a medium diamond hone to start, then finished with the 'standard' fine and UF hones. This would be the absolute minimum to work with, I think.

If it were me, right now, I'd at least give a try as I suggested earlier, and use some 1000/2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper with your existing fine hone. Just take care to make sure the paper is nice & flat against the hone, and take it nice & easy with light pressure. Go about it gently and carefully, and I'd bet you'll be pleasantly surprised.

 

[mdc5162]

THanks for the insight. I will either get the sandpaper like u recommend or a strop. I assume any wet/dry 2000 grit sandpaper will do?

 

[nc527]

THanks for the insight. I will either get the sandpaper like u recommend or a strop. I assume any wet/dry 2000 grit sandpaper will do?

I like 3m automotive. Just go to your local autozone or advance auto parts, and look for it.

 

[Obsessed with Edges]

THanks for the insight. I will either get the sandpaper like u recommend or a strop. I assume any wet/dry 2000 grit sandpaper will do?

I have both 3M and Norton (both wet/dry), either will be fine. Haven't tried other brands. As indicated earlier, the 3M (at least) can often be found anywhere you find automotive refinishing supplies. The Norton paper that I have was purchased at a Woodcraft store. They carry a full range of paper. I purchased it in 220/320/400/600/800/1200/1500/2000 grits.