Snakewood scales completely waxed

Hengelo_77

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I just recieved some snakewood scales and they are completely waxed.
I know about having the ends waxed. Should I remove the wax on the sides?

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Snakewood and other exotics like ebony are waxed to stop the moisture from evaporating and causing splitting. They may go through all sorts of different environments in shipping and storage. The truth of the matter is that snakewood will split, crack, and check even with the best of care. This is why most folks don't use it. I have had a snakewood handles develop a bad crack 6 months or more after finishing it. Add to that the fact that much snakewood is not dried much at all when it is waxed and shipped, and you see why it is not used much.

Scrape as much wax off as you can with a finish scraper (flat edged piece of thin hardened steel), Sand gently by hand with 100 grit paper, then set it on the shelf for two to five years. After that it will likely have some cracks, but they will at least be stable cracks.
Snakewood needs special care. Sand slowly with fresh abrasives. DO NOT let it get hot while sanding or cutting. Hand sanding as much as possible is best.

Filling any cracks and checks with thin CA as soon as you see them is the best hope of maintaining a snakewood handle.
 
Can snakewood be effectively stabilized?
 
I no longer stock snakewood. I bought several logs of it, milled them oversized, let them dry and shipped out the way I would with any other wood.

about 1/2 of my clients came back to me complaining of cracks and checks and other flaws.

Was it due to me not drying it properly?

Was it due to humidity shock from travelling across the country?

Did the clients let the wood get too hot?

Did they leave it in the sun?

Did they try to hammer in pins?

I have no idea, im willing to bet it was some combination of all these factors, but as a seller who works to maintain a sterling reputation it was just too many refunds and too much hassle.

Snakewood is beautiful, but knowing what i do about the wood I am incredibly wary of sellers of it. The cost of the wood, the loss rate in milling, the loss rate in drying, the blocks have to be priced on par with amboyna or high grade ironwood. At least for high figure pieces when you are losing +60% of your material, cheap snakewood simply is not dry. At least at the scale I worked on i am doubtful how it can be done.

As for why your pieces arrived waxed, this is the go to method of larger sellers and those who do not specialize in exotics or high figure pieces. Keeping the pieces completely waxed prevents cracking by almost entirely arresting moisture movement. Wax is typically applied to the ends of a piece, as this is where moisture moved most quickly. By leaving the faces unwaxed, moisture can slowly move out of the wood and the wood will dry/ acclimate. But with difficult to dry woods, even this can result and rampant cracking.

By completely waxing it, a wood seller can sell a piece with zero cracks with the associated premium. If the end user then strips the wax and uses the wood, it will almost certainly crack. But, since it was shipped all waxed with no information, the seller has a convenient excuse for why it is not their fault. It was the user who removed the wax and didnt let it dry. It wasnt the sellers fault, the end user stripped the wax and their actions lead to the cracks and splits.

This is a very common way for the profit minded or simply uninformed to sell exotic wood, as it is often shipped from mills around the world completely waxed to prevent damage during shipping. The responsible thing is to then slowly baby the wood removing wax, limiting moisture movement and slowly dry the wood. But that is slow and expensive, so large sellers just leave wood completely waxed and ship it as is.

Sorry to go on such a rant, but this is one of the reasons wood from me is more expensive. Doing the work and waiting and absorbing the drying losses allows me to sell premium, dry, ready to use material to clients but my prices often look more expensive when compared to those selling green, waxed wood who dont have to deal with those difficulties.
 
Can snakewood be effectively stabilized?

Some people say yes, in my experience the answer is a firm no. Snakewood is INCREDIBLY dense, a close relative of bloodwood/ Satine. You may see people selling bloodwood burl, but thats an unrelated wood.

Snakewood is a Brosimum, and just given its density, heartwood extract content and fine grain i doubt anything more than a 3-5% weight gain is possible, and when i sent in a few pieces they cracked, most likely due to the heating cycle.
 
Snakewood will not stabilize. You are wasting a lot of money if you try.
It will still split or check about 75% of the time ... stabilized or not. Good snakewood is more expensive than ivory.

I used to use a lot of snakewood. The only reason was that I hooked up with a very elderly gent who used to have a custom cane and pool cue business. I bought a large amount ebony, snakewood, and birdseye maple form him that he had in the rafters of his old woodshop. The snakewood and Gabon ebony I got was old growth 1/4 logs that had been dried for decades. I cut it into slabs and let it sit a year, then into oversize blocks. I waxed the ends heavily and dried it for years Some was stunning and won awards. Others cracked no mater what care I used making the handles.
The best knife was the Dragon O-tanto where the tsuka and saya were from one piece of the best snakewood I ever saw. I carved it as a dragon with the head being the tsuka and the body the saya. I will try and see if there is an old photo somewhere. IIRC, it may have been in a magazine or Blade annual. It went to a collector. When the collector passed a few years ago I tried to buy it and one other sword made him back from the estate, but was told the family would keep them with a few other special knives. They sold several thousand other knives.
 
Thanks guys. Will not waste time with it.
 
Nice. I have found that thinner pieces do better than solid hidden tang handles. Perhaps it releases stress better. I still have some in the shop I may pull out now that it has been drying about 50 years.
 
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