"Snap-On" Auto Body Hammer W/Spike (Model BF 608) Becomes Tactical Cane Handle

joejeweler

joejeweler

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Jan 27, 2006
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Not sure if this is the appropriate forum for a recent project I took on, but thought the "Snap-On" (Model BF 608) Auto Body Hammer holds a lot of promise for several different style conversions to use as a pretty serious cane handle. (including making a mini hatchet with spike pole)

I was at first tempted to convert this into a mini hatchet on the hammer side, (short depth "blade" oriented in the same plane as the spike), and with a full pointed spike on the other. But living in New York State you have to be a bit more "conservative" in what you intend to carry, so I compromised on the changes to make for a less fearsome cane handle.

OK, so this is what I started with, a rather nice example but with the typical rough edges and utilitarian finish that I found uncomfortable in the hand as it came. But 5-1/2 inches of "possibilities". ;)

Pic #1


.....and weighing in at a noticeable 9.286 ounces:
Pic #2


I'm pretty sure this is high carbon drop forged steel, and looks to be hardened a bit more at the hammer and spike areas. (as one would expect based on the quality standards "Snap-On" is known for). The very nice "ring" you hear when lightly striking this with a piece of steel also bears that out. Cast steel is dead sounding ;)

Here are some close up starting pics of the utilitarian finish in places where it doesn't matter for it's intended purpose. I took a lot of them so that others might get a better idea if one of these might work for a cane project they may be thinking of someday completing.

Pic #3


Pic#4


Pic #5


Pic #6


Pic #7


Pic #8


Pic #9 (1978 "Date Code" of Number "8" with splits separating down middle)


Pic #10 .....besides planning to eliminate a lot of the hammer face, ALL the back side sharp edges have a short shelf life! :D


Those SHARP contours and edges, and unsightly grinding marks HAVE to GO!

Pic #11


Pic #12


Pic #13


Pic #14


OK,...so that's what we started with. My first decision was to remove the top and side sections of the hammer side, in order to make for a more comfortable handle. Much of the sanding has also been completed using 60 and 120 grit 1/2" sanding drums on my flex shaft machine. Later hand sanding to 600 grit followed.

Oh,...definitely high carbon and fairly hard. Cutting these pieces off with several stone cutoff discs took awhile, and the SPARKS were really flying! I kept an eye on my cotton shirt, in case I might discover a new way to start a fire, ME as kindling! :eek:

Pic #15


Pic #16


......and the still rough shape that I later decided to take down quite a bit more:

Pic #17


.....and after several hours of grinding and sanding, I ended up with this final configuration. (Compare to original in Pic #3)

Pic #18


The grooves I added behind the hammer are there to make for a much more comfortable carry, allowing the space between my index and middle finger to slide right in. The area behind the hammer face has been smoothed out to a high degree, as your hand makes contact with this area a lot while carrying. (Compare with original in Pic #10)

Pic #19


As you can see, ALL the rough areas have been smoothed and shaped to a fairly high level. At one time I actually mirror polished the entire handle, but found I didn't like the "slippery" in hand feel. A hand brushing with red scotch-brite pads gave me the finish I wanted, and super comfortable in hand.

Pic #20


Pic #21


Pic #22


.....all the sharp corners around the shaft eye have been contoured and smoothed off to make for a comfortable surface for hand placement....... (Compare with original in Pic #12 previously)

Pic #23


.....for some reason, a few areas of the Apple Cider Vinager "blue" I gave the handle ended up with a darker streak, even though I spent some time really cleaning the steel prior to cider treatment. But in some ways, it gives the piece an aged look. The streak at the rounded spike the darkest......

Pic #24


Here you can see one of the hand positions I can see me using regularly, once I find a cane shaft I like:

Pic #25


.....top view:

Pic #26


I found it also very comfortable to hold this way......

Pic #27


....top view....

Pic #28


Those finger grooves really feel great, especially smoothed off to this degree. I tapered the finger grooves deeper to the top, and that's how the space of the hand is shaped:

Pic #29


.....from the bottom side a less pronounced grooved cut.....

Pic #30


In the end, the handle lost 1-1/2 ounces in weight, and became what looks to be a cane I'll use frequently,.......ONCE I find a worthy shaft!

Pic #31
 
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jimh0220 said:
Cool concept. Finished project pics soon?
Click to expand...

As I mentioned I need to find a worthy shaft. Something solid in Oak, Ebony, or Hickory and 1 to 1-1/8" diameter with little to no taper.

But I'll post a followup when I "Cane". ;)
 
Well, last night I went to Home Depot, and picked up a decent looking 1 inch diameter Oak Dowel in 36 inch length. The grain structure looked pretty good, and had a "heft" I found appealing.

......a "worthy shaft" (until I eventually find an Ebony or Cocobolo shaft I like better), and certainly a bargain at just under $5.00

I went over the entire shaft with 220 and later 400 grip sandpaper, and carefully ground down one end to be a tight fit to the head's "eye". This Snap-On head had the usual tapered eye, on both the upper and lower openings, which funneled in toward the center.

Consequently, the shaft was fitted "tight" to the center section. Normally I would have split the wood and added in a wooden wedge, but I wanted as much wood strength to be retained in the center section, since I will be placing my weight against it and not generally using it as a hammer or pick. (not likely to "fly" off pressing downward on the shaft!) Splitting and adding a wooden wedge would have flared the wood over the top, and filled in much of the upper taper in the head.

Instead, considering I will someday be removing this shaft to upgrade, I decided to simply use high strength epoxy along with a very tight fit to the wood. I had to final seat the head with a few taps with a leather mallet. All parts of the joint were smeared with epoxy, and the head set home with the mallet. More epoxy was added to fill in as much of the tapering steel sections, and any excess wiped off with several Q-Tips dipped with a light coating of rubbing alcohol.

You can see the upper eye taper here, and a similar taper is also in the bottom.



Here's the trial fitting after having to tap on the head with leather mallet, and you can clearly see the funnel taper. There is some sanding dust still remaining, but no harm for just the trial fit. When I eventually re-shaft this I will probably remove the central head taper, which will allow for a thicker wooden section within the eye. Used as a cane handle a better choice I think.



....under view but the funneling is covered:







.....and the shaft after tapping the head off the final fitting. (all done with a hand held 1/2 inch drum sander using 60 grit and my flex shaft handpiece.)



Last night I stained the oak with a mahogany color, and wiped most of it off after the recommended 15 minutes. A few hours later and before I went to bed, I added a coating of low gloss Hormsby's Tung Oil finish. (no finish or stain where the epoxy was going) This morning I epoxied it all together.

After setting up with high strength epoxy for 7 hours, I took the cane out this evening to 2 local malls. I made no special attempt to hide the head, but simply used it as a walking aid as one would expect. While grabbing a bite to eat in the food court I placed the cane against the bench seat, and had no trouble with anyone questioning the cane's head.





Full length....(but the flash washed out the lower shaft color)



The epoxy neatly filled in around the head taper:









A few comfortable hand positions....

.....the most common hold,.....horn back.

I like this holding position the best, as it is affords a lot of leverage to swing the cane forward. In an emergency, it will allow a very quick "attitude" adjustment with the lower shaft, a move some might call the "nut cracker" :rolleyes:



.......also comfortable and allowing a bit more finger room, .....horn forward:



....and horn to the side which rounds up the useable holding positions:




......all in all a fun and worthwhile project.......



 
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Congratulations! You have re-invented a medieval warhammer. Swords were found to be semi-useless against full plate armor so the most used battlefield weapons were warhammers, maces and poleaxes.

single-hand-war-hammer-simple-version_3.jpg
 
HFinn said:
Congratulations! You have re-invented a medieval warhammer. Swords were found to be semi-useless against full plate armor so the most used battlefield weapons were warhammers, maces and poleaxes.

single-hand-war-hammer-simple-version_3.jpg
Click to expand...

Ummm,...that's exactly NOT the look I went after! :(

I "could" have ground a point onto or sharpened the flat end into a razor edge.

Instead, I rounded off the original flat shape and made the edge as UNSHARP and smooth as possible. The hammer was reduced in size for comfort but not shaped into a point. As much as possible all consideration was given to becoming a cane handle, and away from a war hammer/body piercing spike weapon.

Living in New York State such is life.

.......now if I were living in Texas???? ;)

So re-invent a war hammer I think not,.....but I will say "repurposing" an item is a time honored tradition,....and one in which I often partake. :)


As a side note I stopped into a larger Auto Parts Store yesterday, and in getting to the checkout counter the guy in front of me commented "nice cane".

I pointed out the "Snap-On" stamping and started to relay it's original auto body work functioning,.......and he said "I knew what it was immediately. I'm a body shop worker". (and smiled) I suspect they'd be a big hit at most any body shop, if only as a wall hanger. (might "walk away" though :rolleyes: )
 
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Sorry if I offended you. Being a historical fencer and an allround history fanatic I could not resist.

You know, one thing that comes to mind of your hammer/cane is a hungarian hand axe, that were shaped to work as walking canes. Just can't remember the name of this tool right now.
 
HFinn said:
Sorry if I offended you. Being a historical fencer and an allround history fanatic I could not resist.

You know, one thing that comes to mind of your hammer/cane is a hungarian hand axe, that were shaped to work as walking canes. Just can't remember the name of this tool right now.
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All good,........ I have broad shoulders (figuratively),...so not easy to offend. :)

But I did want it on the record I was NOT intending this as a "weapon". Should I ever come under the unfortunate circumstance of having to use it as a defensive "tool", I will have to deal with that.

Note,....even a wooden pencil could be used defensively and be lethal under some circumstances, but I would find it hard to believe that pencil wielder would be charged criminal possession and use of a "weapon" were it used defensively under serious attack.

Oh,...I believe you're referring to the Hungarian "Fokos", and sometimes referred to as a "Shepard's Axe".
 
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Beautiful job, Joe.

Ver cool idea, vintage Snap-On hammer was a great touch. Great work on the shaping. Oak. Nice.

Well done.

Oh, nice Rolex as well:)
 
Ickythump said:
Beautiful job, Joe.

Ver cool idea, vintage Snap-On hammer was a great touch. Great work on the shaping. Oak. Nice.

Well done.

Oh, nice Rolex as well:)
Click to expand...

Can't get nothing past you sharp eyed hawks! :)

I even took it off for most of the pictures, once I realized I had it on. That's the problem with an "everyday" comfortable watch of any brand,....you forget it's there.

As I've grown older I really appreciate an easy to read uncluttered dial.

The day of the month is all I need to be reminded of, and this fits that need nicely. This one I've owned about 10 years. (I'm 58 now)

 
Wow, thats a beauty. I assumed it was the Sub Mariner...That is a superb piece in very fine shape.

Very, very nice.

A Class Act, all around.

Thank you for the pics, man
 
Exceptional job.

Reading this makes me feel very fortunate to live in a state that does not infringe on my right to protect myself.
 
That's an outstanding build. I like it!! Personally I'd yearn for a cocobolo shaft as you mentioned, or at least something heavy and strong. Oak is nice, but that combo of a real heavy metal top seems to demand a more exotic and strong hard wood. I wish you were closer; I think I know someone here who could source a cocobolo shaft.... though that wood has become insanely expensive these days...

Very cool and fun to see. Thank you for sharing. :)

Brian.
 
bgentry said:
That's an outstanding build. I like it!! Personally I'd yearn for a cocobolo shaft as you mentioned, or at least something heavy and strong. Oak is nice, but that combo of a real heavy metal top seems to demand a more exotic and strong hard wood. I wish you were closer; I think I know someone here who could source a cocobolo shaft.... though that wood has become insanely expensive these days...

Very cool and fun to see. Thank you for sharing. :)

Brian.
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Well,....at a finished weight of just 7.776 ounces I wouldn't exactly put this head into the "real heavy" category,.....more of a "meaty" and perhaps "noticeable" weight variety. ;)

My main reason for wanting an ebony or cocobolo shaft,......besides the obvious nicer grain patterns (usually),....is to actually gain MORE weight. I like a heavy cane, but will say this is not too bad in that area and it may stay on quite awhile.

The untapered oak shaft is actually is pretty strong with the 1 inch diameter. (a hair under finished off as usual). I notice NO flex whatsoever in the wood, no matter how hard I lean into it. (I'm 175 pounds).

Of course the top wood had to be fitted to the head's eye, so the insertion peg is reduced considerably. However, with the added high strength epoxy (rated at 2500 pounds as I recall :-), that connection is supported along the underside also so it gains some back there.

I'd think overall the shaft/head connection has the potential to hold up for a VERY long time when used as intended........especially since I like placing my palm directly over the center of the shaft. That makes the most sense from a structural point of view anyway. The head or tail of the head is there mostly to allow the fingers a place to lift for taking the next step. All weight is pushing down over the center,....so pretty solid.

....oh,...and it was a hoot to work on also! :)
 
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RevDevil said:
Nice work Joe, I think it turned out pretty darn good.
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Thanks,...

.....in fact, I like the way it all worked out so well I decided to make an offer on a slightly different Snap-On hammer. The handle was cracked and wrapped with tape, but the BIN on ebay was $31.49. I offered $24 plus shipping and told him to knock the handle off as I didn't want it anyway,......and it was cheaper then for him to ship and he could keep the difference for the trouble.

Overall in nice shape, with just a very light surface rust that was coming off anyway once I start to smooth finish it all off. This one will be much easier, as I think I'll leave the hammer head alone except foir countouring and smoothing it all up. Same with the back spike.

I haven't taken my own clearer pics yet, but you can get an idea here from the listing pics. I have a plan for getting this done over the weekend. :)

Funny during the last "repair" the head was put on upside down,......but didn't matter on this shape head.









 
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