snaps vs posts

C

camaroless

Joined
Feb 8, 2015
Messages
97
Which is better snaps or posts. Or is it personal prefference or application. I just made this sheath, im new so I need some advise. Should I have used a snap instead ?
J.B.
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feel free to critisize
 
I've use both depending on the individual sheath ( I only make folder sheaths , not fixed blade )
Posts look better in most circumstances and have a traditional vibe .
But I'm using more and more Snaps because I feel that for sustained use , and a sheath that is continuously and repeatedly opened and closed they tend to keep the shape and integrity of the flap or fastener in better condition .
A good solid Snap is still very secure in my opinion , and they don't have to be just boring and plain , there are many different types available and they can add a individual dimension to the sheath .
I'm only an amateur though and I'm interested to hear from others who have been doing it for much longer .

Ken
 
For really hard use I definitely prefer the post as there are no parts and nothing to break or get loose. In fact I almost use the post by default now unless the customer specifies snap. I also use ligne 20 snaps instead of the ligne 24, but that is because I prefer the look of the smaller snap. The posts are more expensive than snaps, but the prices on both have risen quite a bit lately.

Paul
 
I prefer posts, too. Nothing to wear out, and give a classy, clean appearance.
 
Do snaps come in different lengths for the thickness of leather ? Im glad to hear you like posts. I agree that there is no parts to wear but does the hole get stretched out and slip off the post ?
 
I have not experienced any problems with hole stretching and becoming excessively loose. and Yes snaps do come in different post lengths for different thicknesses of leather, but there is a limit to the thickness as in many multi layers.
Glove snaps are smaller and used with light weight leathers and smaller projects (2 to 4 oz) Ligne 20 for 5 to 9 oz), and ligne 24 for the heavier leathers up to about 12 oz. You can also get different post lengths within the Ligne 20 and 24 series. If you line your sheaths or other projects the snaps should be set prior to installing the lining so that the interior is protected from the snap base.

It is also worth mentioning that snaps set much easier and perfect every time if you use the "pump handle" bench press with the correct dies. It's not an inexpensive set up but well worth it if you set quite a few snaps, and the press and other dies can handle many other applications as well such as double cap rivets etc.

Paul
 
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A lot of old military flap style holsters were secured with posts. Often times they were designed with an easily replaced strap if the the fastening around the post became too worn. Britsih holsters for the Webley, German holsters for the P38 (1944 model) and Cold War hosters for the CZ52 and some of the Tokarovs are examples. I took this thought into the design of my Range Flap hoster and my Scoped Rifle Scabbard. Pop one rivet and replace the strap and back in business. However like Paul said I've never actually had to do this because they simply don't seem to wear that much. But I could if needed.

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This Pack Pac I made is the same. Pop the top rivet and replace the strap.
 
thanks to all for the help. i cant believe how everyone is so helpful. this is my new favorite hobby. Dave nice work, i like the idea of being able to change the strap. Paul i cant stop watching your videos...
JB
 
I prefer the studs. They are really versatile too. The only time I use snaps is on children's bracelets (adults get studs) or if the customer prefers a snap.

I haven't been doing this long, so I don't have long term experience with how the straps hold up, but I have had my cuffs on and off at least twice a day for a few months and the leather has no deformation to speak of. You'll want the proper thickness of leather (about 7oz works for me), hole in the correct size and the length of the slit is a consideration too. I like a 1/4-1/2" slit and I like to put a small hole at the end of the slit. I doubt the slit would ever tear, but I like the added touch. I also dye the inside of the holes and slit because it looks better to me. Everyone has their way of doing things. :)
 
In the very few projects where I used a post, only once did I make the mistake of making the hole too small and the "split" too short. That is what [seems to me] to be the issue with the hole wearing out. That's what happened to the one gift sheath I made for my cousin's hunting knife [my first installation of a post as a matter of fact]. After his 2nd hunting season with it he commented how the hole split and showed me....looked like a bullet hole in glass. I was a bit upset and collected it from him to fix.

The retention strap was cut as part of the back piece in the original design. I removed the strap completely and had to sew on a new strap using the existing stitch line as my join point. Was awkward to do but I got it done nicely. I put a larger hole and longer "slit" in the new strap and that seems to have worked wonders. He's not asked for it to be fixed so I guess it's still good. That was several years ago and I did ask him about it a year ago or so and he said "it's good."

How I managed that one was I made the new hole 1/2 the diameter of the largest part/bell of the post...which was slightly larger than the waist of the post. Perhaps .5 mm larger....
 
I'm all for posts. No experience to lend credit, I just like the look better and the don't add height to the leather pieces.
Also open snaps make this noise from the ring inside which bothers me.
My current sweet spot as far as size goes for a 6 mm post seems to be a 4mm hole with a 5-7mm slit.
 
You all know I'm a round knife guy but try a wood chisel for making the slit for the post. Don't remember where I heard that recently but I gave it a try and like it. Easy to keep straight and easier to get the length just right.
 
If you are using the standard Sam Browne stud like from Tandy, a number 8 punch is just right for the hole size and then I make a 1/4" slit with an Exacto knife number 11 blade and it works perfectly. Goes over the stud with a little "snap" and never stretches out of shape. In the case of really heavy leather, the slit should probably be a little longer.

Paul
 
They make those punches that have a little tail that cuts the slit at the same time as the hole too. Haven't bought one because I haven't seen the need. I use a snap-off utility knife or wood carving knife to cut the slit. I cut the hole with a rotary punch or punch and mallet if the jaw hinge of the rotary impedes the depth. The jaw has never been a problem on the strap but can be on the post side.
 
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1425885881.898047.jpg

The top sheath has stingray inlay. The bottom one has a removable belt attachment so you can use it as a waistband carry instead. Kinda cool
 
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