So close yet so far. Pm2 disassembly hiccup. anything to disolve red locktite?

S

smcknives

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Jan 16, 2017
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Ok i am so close to disassembling my brand new PM2, but I have stripped the stop in scre and the pivot screw on the right hand side scale.

I have attached 2 pictures. you will see the stop pin and pivot bushing, you will see the top sides of both, those were the screws I managed to take out, but there are 2 stripped screws still inside.

my options are to either drill out both screws, or to disolve the loctite.

I am a bit hesitant to start drilling because I am afraid to screw it up, and also I dont want to ship it out to spyderco to replace the stop pin and pivot bushing.

I tried a heat gun at first but I was afraid to melt the g10. I might try extreme cold. but the problem is, even if the loctite gets disolved, the screws are still stripped. so I think the only option is to cut it or drill it out

I might try to disolve it then buy an ez out kit.

OK I have decided to Drill out the screws, any tips please. what size of drill bit should I use? should it be the size of the screw, or a bit larger than the opening of the screw hole?

should I drill through the open side, or from the screw head and do I have to get a carbide bit or will a regular drill bit work? thanks

any help is appreciated
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I don't know what you would use that is a solvent for loctite that you would want to potentially get on your knife. Heat will soften it but IIRC it's somewhere between 200-300 deg F and a heat gun isn't going to be very effective. A soldering gun would put the heat right into where it's needed much more effectively.

If you drill the head out then you still have to get the threads out and you might not have much left to grab on to. I would try an ez out that has a drill bit on one end and shallow reverse threads on the other. There are kind that are a long spiral that I've never had luck with.

You need to push down when using the ez out so it doesn't just scrape the metal off but bites down into it. If you have a drill press you can put the scale in a vice and chuck up the ez out. Then with the drill turned off use the press handle to apply down force and use your other hand to turn the chuck. If you take the belt off the drill you won't have to turn the motor. And if you can't get enough torque and have a strap wrench you could wrap it around the chuck to get more leverage.

Other than that, pay the $20 bucks and send it back to Spyderco.

Good luck.
 
FlaMtnBkr said:
Other than that, pay the $20 bucks and send it back to Spyderco.

Good luck.
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you think I can get the problem solved by spyderco as is (no drilling, just send it as it is, in the pictures? or should I drill the screws out first? thanks
 
Red Loctite. I almost busted a semi shottie thanks to that. Get me order screws from CRK. Postage was triple the price of the screws, Oh Canada.

It's the most evil thing you can get your hands on when tinkering with knives and guns.

Take the tube and...

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Oh, and stick to the blue. It's plenty strong enough already.

Use a dremel with the steel cutter disc, then good luck, YMMV.
 
I don't even use the red on my rifle scopes, agree with the meme above me.
 
I would send it as is and let them do their thing.

But contact them first and see what they say. I believe the charge for warranty work is $20 but I don't know if there is anything else besides maybe return shipping. You can email them but it can take a while to get a response and people don't always like them as I think they use canned response for many things. But a phone call will get a answer much quicker and is what most recommend doing.
 
I have found blue Locktite even a little much sometimes. Try purple or green.
 
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Is it reallllly stripped bad, if not might be able to work it after heating, use a lot of pressure and if it starts to slip back off, I've gotten plenty of stripped screws out like this just have to get it to bite a little
 
Yeah, if it isn't stripped too bad I've found you can take something like a thick plastic bag or Mylar from a bag of chips and place it on top of the screw and then push the Torx bit in the screw so the material fills in some of the stripped area and tightens up the fit. If you can get a nice snug fit you are doing good.

The key is getting the loctite hot first so that it softens up and is no longer hard. If you are worried about burning the G10, I would suggest using boiling water which you know is no hotter than 212 deg F. Get a pot of water to a slow boil or even little bubbles forming is getting close and stick the end of the knife in so the screw is just submerged and hold it in the water for about 15-20 second. This should be hot enough to soften the loctite some while still being safe for the G10. Then pull it out and work quickly while it's hot. I'm not sure if it will get as hard as original once cool but I imagine it does.

Good luck whatever you do.
 
FlaMtnBkr said:
If you are worried about burning the G10.
Click to expand...

When I did it yesterday I had a blow dryer that gets really hot and blew the air right at the pivot for a few minutes, afterward the knife was hot to the touch all over so I used a pot holder but the G10 was unaffected, I think as long as you stay away from something so hot as a heat gun you should be ok:

"It has max working temperature ratings up to 150 degrees C. (302 F) In addition to these properties, G10 has excellent dielectric loss properties, and great electrical strength.

G10 is scientifically manufactured with specialized industrial grade epoxy, electrical grade, non-alkali glass cloth, catalyzed and formed under heat and pressure.

Electrically Insulating
Flame Retardant
Good Processability
High Strength


There's also G11 which has even a better temperature ratings and strength."
Source

AFAIK heat guns reach around 1000F and blow dryers don't go over 150F and that's before leaving the nozzle so I think with any hair dryer your G10 should be just fine.
 
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