So, I managed to fix my Cyclone!

Joined
Oct 23, 2007
Messages
72
Before I even say anything, I would like to give a very special THANK YOU and public acknowledgement to Audiopile - he sent me a brand new torsion bar/actuator bar set at absolutely no cost to me, I didn't even have to pay shipping. In today's day and age of ripoffs, con artists and generally mean people, kindness like that is a rare thing. Audio, you da man! :thumbup:

After my (very angry) post about not one, but two dud cylones out of the box, I recieved a couple of offers from other forum members offering to replace my knife. Tim Galyean offered to send me a prepaid package to send the knife back to him, and stated that he would replace it. Well, some time has gone by and I never recieved that package (did ya forget about me, Tim? ;)). However, before the whole debacle with the second knife, Audiopile had sent that package with the torsion bar and actuator bar - it just took next to forever to get to me. It finally showed up about two-three weeks ago, right around the same time Tim offered to replace the knife.

After a while, I got antsy and decided that rather than waiting for the prepaid package to get to me, I'd just take the thing apart, clean it up, and replace the bad parts with the new ones I got in the mail to see if that fixed the problem.

After looking at the parts I pulled out of my knife compared to the new ones, I can see why Kershaw made the design change to the actuator bar - that curved grind allowed the bar to flex ALOT. It was pretty torqued when I pulled it out. The torsion bar looked terrible too...I think it was stored in the "on" position with the blade closed ever since it left the factory (Nov 2006, over a year). That would explain the extremely poor performance (weak spring), and the speedsafe's failure to engage.

I got the knife back together, and WOW. Night and day difference, no question. The blade pops out faster than any auto I've ever owned. It's like lightning. The best part? No popping, snapping, clicking, or any other funky noises. I works perfectly now, every time.

The only thing I did wrong has to do with the on/off switch, becasue now I can't disengage the speedsafe mechanism. Time to take it apart again and get it right. :o

Anyway, this post got rather long, but I'm happy with my knife (FINALLY), and wanted you all to know that I'll be keeping it for a very long time. Thanks goes out to everyone who offered their help.
 
Yay, I'm happy for you bro. We have some really good guys here and they will go out of there way for you any time. Audiopile:thumbup: we salute you brother.
 
Yay, I'm happy for you bro. We have some really good guys here and they will go out of there way for you any time. Audiopile:thumbup: we salute you brother.

First class Audiopile!!
Glad to hear you're enjoying the Cyclone Convert. :thumbup:
 
These are great tools - your experience was unfortunate and very atypical - now you get to enjoy a superior piece of engineering. I don't quit understand what goes on with PO -they'll deliver a letter addressed to "Jack the Stack -who lives in back -behind Rainbow Jersey -off of Downer Ave.,Milw. Wi." ( very sadly I don't live there anymore) - but will every once in a while send mail thru some sort of semi-permiable black hole -where it will eventually pop up above the event horizon -where it's been in the mean time is a real piece of weirdness.
Have fun -a good knife is one of life's ongoing pleasures!
 
...The only thing I did wrong has to do with the on/off switch, becasue now I can't disengage the speedsafe mechanism. Time to take it apart again and get it right. :o
You do know that the blade HAS TO BE in the locked open position for the on/off wheel to be turned, don't you?...Hopefully, that's your problem.
 
audiopile said:
I don't quit understand what goes on with PO -they'll deliver a letter addressed to "Jack the Stack -who lives in back -behind Rainbow Jersey -off of Downer Ave.,Milw. Wi." ( very sadly I don't live there anymore) - but will every once in a while send mail thru some sort of semi-permiable black hole -where it will eventually pop up above the event horizon -where it's been in the mean time is a real piece of weirdness.

Aint that the truth. I'm betting that one way or another, some scanner thought that the envelope contained some sort of explosive device or some such thing just due to the shape of the bars, and them being positioned on opposite sides of the cardboard.

That, or my parts have been shipped via gravity drive through the semi-permiable black hole you mentioned, and if true to the movie, are now posessed by demons from hell. I'll let you know if my knife opens itself and tries to kill me, but so far so good. :D


You do know that the blade HAS TO BE in the locked open position for the on/off wheel to be turned, don't you?...Hopefully, that's your problem.

According to the manual (I actually read it, can you believe that?), the blade can be either open or closed to turn the mechanism on/off...but if the blade is closed, whatever you select wont take effect until you open the blade and close it again.

That being said, it won't work in either position, so I think that I just rotated the switch too far one way or the other when I put the grip back on. No big deal though, I'm about to go figure out what I did right now and fix it.
 
Does anyone know if the actuator bar change is also on the mini? I have a very early (aug 06) and have had no problems at all. I don't use the speed safe much because it just flips so nice without it. My zdp Mini has alot different feel and is slower to open with speed safe. Also it can't be flipped unless you use alot of wrist. Has anyone else noticed a difference with the TI handled Minis?
 
I own a couple of each of these - here's the differeces I have noticed: 1.) Of the 5 mini cy's sitting on my desk right now - 1 of the standard models is easily opened by me via the thumbstuds - all the rest in some very strange way -are only useable BY ME -via the flipper. Have removed the thumbstuds from one Ti and one standard mini-cy - now they don't catch on my pocket - like the tool a lot better minus thumbstuds. 2.) IMHO - the "speed" of speed safe operation is pretty un-important. If someone can figure out how to actually measure this (stop action photos?) - it would be of academic interset only. The SAFE is the big deal -I have gotten terribly spoiled by being able to depend on the knife being locked open - easily and simply awsomelly consistently! It's a safer tool in every day use - that's a real big deal. 3.) It does seem to me that the Ti's might (based on my very small sample) -be a little slower to open than the standard models. I am not entirely sure that this perception doesn't have something to do with the difference in the sound the two different designs make when they "snap" closed? 4.) Someone else has posted a really excellent photo step by step -assemble/dissassemble tutorial - if this is begining to pry on your mind ( remember - all knife makers recomend against prying!) - order the two springs from K'shaw and replace 'em -that really should be the end of any reliability concerns you might have.
5.) These are great tools -well thought out and generally brilliantly executed - the spring problem is weird -but not a big thing to deal with.
 
audiophile got me to wondering...so I went and checked all 7 of my Cyclones (3 Ti/ZDP, 2 full sized and 2 regular minis) and I can't open any of them with the thumbstuds...even my well worn and broken in Ti/ZDP. Flipper only for all 7.

And I agree, the thumb studs do catch on pockets. Instead of removing them, I carefully took the Dremel to one Ti and and one regular mini, and knocked the sharp edges on the stud tiers down...no more problems for those two...
 
And I agree, the thumb studs do catch on pockets. Instead of removing them, I carefully took the Dremel to one Ti and and one regular mini, and knocked the sharp edges on the stud tiers down...no more problems for those two...

Hmmmm...thats a very interesting idea, SPX. I had noticed that the thmbstuds caught a little on my pocket with my first Cy, but didn't think that there was much I could do about it. I didn't want to remove the studs completely, as they are sometimes convenient for me to use. i had thought about polishing the tiers down, but with my first Cyclone the blade and studs were both black so I thought it wouldn't look very good. Now, with the replacement cyclone that Kershaw sent me, the blade is black but the studs are plain (kind of a hybrid...it's neat). I might go ahead and try polishing the tiers down like you did, and see how well it turns out.


Where's my Dremel...
 
Convert, it doesn't take much to just round off the sharp edges on the tiers. I've since found out that a coarse grained cardboard fingernail file will do the trick...it takes off just enough of the edge to eliminate the snagging...it's a bit slower than the Dremel, and you might want to have a few extra files, cause the steel studs eat them up pretty quick...

SPX
 
I've got a small set of jeweler's files that I might try out, come to think of it. I'm not too bad with a dremel, but I think that the files might be a bit more forgiving if I screw up. I'll post pics if I get around to it some time tommorrow...but we are in the process of painting our new place (:barf:) so I'm not sure how much extra time I'll have. I'll get to it at some point though.
 
Does anyone know if the actuator bar change is also on the mini? I have a very early (aug 06) and have had no problems at all.

i'm quite curious about this as well. I just purchased a NIB mini-cyclone just last week, but only recently realized that it was made in June of 2006. Mine sometimes makes crunchy scratchy sounds when closing it, even after a very detailed cleaning. Also, part of the finish has started to wear (near the born on date) due to rubbing with the liner.

What changes have been made since 2006? Anything I should know about, or do I have a faulty example?

Thanks.
 
Back
Top