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So I want to use my benchtop buffer to mirror finish...
- Thread starter gixxer
- Start date
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- Jun 11, 2006
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- 8,633
what you do is not let the buffer grab your knife and throu it back at you. I dont use a buffer, but you need some buffing compound. it comes in a stick and you charge the buffing wheel by turning the wheel on and push the compound onto the wheel so some rubs off onto the wheel. then start buffing the knife, but be verv carfull.
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
Moderator
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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- Aug 20, 2004
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NOTE - PLEASE READ-
The buffer is the single most dangerous machine in the shop. It can remove a finger or a piece of your hand in .01 second. Most new makers try to use the wrong type of buffer. Those 3400RPM HF specials, and most bench units,are too fast. You need a buffer specifically for knife work and similar polishing. For buffing,1800RPM,max. less is better. With experience you can turn a 16" wheel at 3600RPM,but it is suicide for a new person to try that. Use smaller wheels when starting out. 6" wheels at 1700-1800RPM are pretty easy to control.Bench units are usually too close to the work surface and the wheels are too close to the motor. A stand that leaves the machine with nothing below the wheels (base only on stand) is the safest.The unit should be at least 5 feet from a wall.A thrown blade can pierce a plywood wall,so don't let anyone be on the other side of the machine. Wear good safety gear.A thick leather apron is the minimum,professionals wear chain mail vests.
As to the polishing procedure -
Start with black or gray compound (you may be amazed at the scratches that show up you missed ).Buff to a smooth matte finish.Go to the green compound (new wheel) and buff to a mirror polish.Other good final compounds are pink and white.Never use a wheel for more than one compound.Don't let the blade get too high or low on the wheel, 3 O'Cock to 5 O'Clock position is where you want to be.
Watch out that you don't let the edge get hot.You can kill the temper in a flash.
When you are all ready to start,read the beginning part of this post again.I would even suggest putting it on the wall above the buffer until you have about 100 hours on the machine.
Final note -
Buffing requires 100% of your attention. Never work with distractions.Many will not buff with anyone else in the room.
Stacy
The buffer is the single most dangerous machine in the shop. It can remove a finger or a piece of your hand in .01 second. Most new makers try to use the wrong type of buffer. Those 3400RPM HF specials, and most bench units,are too fast. You need a buffer specifically for knife work and similar polishing. For buffing,1800RPM,max. less is better. With experience you can turn a 16" wheel at 3600RPM,but it is suicide for a new person to try that. Use smaller wheels when starting out. 6" wheels at 1700-1800RPM are pretty easy to control.Bench units are usually too close to the work surface and the wheels are too close to the motor. A stand that leaves the machine with nothing below the wheels (base only on stand) is the safest.The unit should be at least 5 feet from a wall.A thrown blade can pierce a plywood wall,so don't let anyone be on the other side of the machine. Wear good safety gear.A thick leather apron is the minimum,professionals wear chain mail vests.
As to the polishing procedure -
Start with black or gray compound (you may be amazed at the scratches that show up you missed ).Buff to a smooth matte finish.Go to the green compound (new wheel) and buff to a mirror polish.Other good final compounds are pink and white.Never use a wheel for more than one compound.Don't let the blade get too high or low on the wheel, 3 O'Cock to 5 O'Clock position is where you want to be.
Watch out that you don't let the edge get hot.You can kill the temper in a flash.
When you are all ready to start,read the beginning part of this post again.I would even suggest putting it on the wall above the buffer until you have about 100 hours on the machine.
Final note -
Buffing requires 100% of your attention. Never work with distractions.Many will not buff with anyone else in the room.
Stacy
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
Moderator
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Aug 20, 2004
- Messages
- 37,729
It can be done by hand. Use Carborundum wet or dry (use it wet beyond 1000) to 2500 grit then go to 3M polishing papers to 8000. Buff with a soft cloth charged with green compound or rouge. It is more work than a buffer,but safer.
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2006
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- 221
I had a couple of blades kick out of my hand as a newby. I have mine set up where i buff from the side. that way if If something happens it will kick it away from me.
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2004
- Messages
- 6,212
i dont have my buffer mounted that way i cant lean on it hard and if it grabs the wheel and buffer can give also not just the blade
- Joined
- Sep 27, 2004
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- 3,041
I love and hate buffer stories. Everybody has one. Some are awful, others somewhat funny. I lost a 4" blade a week ago and i swear it ripped out of my hand so hard and flew so fast it tore a hole in space-time, because it is GONE. I cant find it anywhere.
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- Sep 13, 2004
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- 1,553
3M Trizac belts go up to about 4000 grit. Thats what I use.
On a 3400 rpm buffer I then use black on a hard felt wheel to get JUST the small scratches that didnt come out on the grinder. The hard felt wheels DONT grab nearly as much as the other wheels but they ARE expensive but they Do last a long time. It is also easy to get the area by the grind line without washing it out when you use he hard felt wheels
I then go to a sewn buff with 600 grit white on the 3400 rpm buffer.
Then a 1750 rpm buffer thith green Chrome then pink no scratch.
If you are spending more than 10 minuts TOTAL on all 4 steps of the buffer, you didnt go far enough with the trizac's.
I guarantee this will turn into a "safety first" thread...and for good reason. A buffer can and will catch your blade and fling it...hopefully not at you. Some things you can do to mitigate your risk are:
- Keep a good firm hold on your workpiece
- Make sure there are no hard surfaces behind the buffer. Put an old moving blanket back there to catch any flung blades so they don't richocet at you.
- Keep a good firm hold on your workpiece
- Use the side of the buff (top or bottom, depending on rotation) that will throw things AWAY from you, not AT you.
- Keep a good firm hold on your workpiece
- If the wheel spins towards you, buff with the underside of the buff not the front. That way anything flying will go BEHIND the buffer (into your blanket...right?) rather than into your foot below.
- Oh, and did I mention to keep a good firm hold on your workpiece?
And it goes without saying (but I'll say it anyways!) that your blade should NOT be sharpened when you're buffing. If it has an edge, take the edge off with your grinder before you buff. Sharpening is the last steo right?
Now, onto a few other things:
- Get seperate buffs for metal and wood. A white compound on steel will turn black. That black will stain your wood.
- Sand everything nice and flat and remove yoru scratches before you buff. You're not fooling anybody if you think you can "hide" scratches with the buffer.
- Keep your buffs in sealed ziploc baggies to prevent crap getting into them when you're not using them.
- Have a seperate buff for each compound. Otherwise, you'll NEVER get better than your lowest grit compound in finish.
Hope all of that helps! Please pitch in anything I missed folks!
-d
- Keep a good firm hold on your workpiece
- Make sure there are no hard surfaces behind the buffer. Put an old moving blanket back there to catch any flung blades so they don't richocet at you.
- Keep a good firm hold on your workpiece
- Use the side of the buff (top or bottom, depending on rotation) that will throw things AWAY from you, not AT you.
- Keep a good firm hold on your workpiece
- If the wheel spins towards you, buff with the underside of the buff not the front. That way anything flying will go BEHIND the buffer (into your blanket...right?) rather than into your foot below.
- Oh, and did I mention to keep a good firm hold on your workpiece?
And it goes without saying (but I'll say it anyways!) that your blade should NOT be sharpened when you're buffing. If it has an edge, take the edge off with your grinder before you buff. Sharpening is the last steo right?
Now, onto a few other things:
- Get seperate buffs for metal and wood. A white compound on steel will turn black. That black will stain your wood.
- Sand everything nice and flat and remove yoru scratches before you buff. You're not fooling anybody if you think you can "hide" scratches with the buffer.
- Keep your buffs in sealed ziploc baggies to prevent crap getting into them when you're not using them.
- Have a seperate buff for each compound. Otherwise, you'll NEVER get better than your lowest grit compound in finish.
Hope all of that helps! Please pitch in anything I missed folks!
-d
Thank you for the replies. I am a very safety conscious person, so I guess firing up the buffer after a 6 pack is a no-no! Just kidding. I never operate power tools or sharpen knives when I drink. So just to clarify, if I had sanded to 1500 grit, I would start with an emery bar? The last thing I want to do is go backwards after spending a few hours wet sanding. I have to look for a slow speed buffer, all of the buffers I have seen are 3600 RPM.
Man, I was about to go to Sears tomorrow. I guess I could just get a motor with an extra long shaft, and mount it to a base myself. Or, go the full 9 and get a pair of pillow blocks and run a v belt to the motor so it is out of the way. I have $120 to blow on parts for now. It's a start. Maybe something like what they showed in the new Blade mag could be in order. He built a disc sander, I could take that idea and mount buffing wheels instead of discs. I do not have plans to work on huge pieces, do I really need a 1hp motor? I was just thinking a 1/2 hp motor and 6in wheels. Opinions?
Man, I was about to go to Sears tomorrow. I guess I could just get a motor with an extra long shaft, and mount it to a base myself. Or, go the full 9 and get a pair of pillow blocks and run a v belt to the motor so it is out of the way. I have $120 to blow on parts for now. It's a start. Maybe something like what they showed in the new Blade mag could be in order. He built a disc sander, I could take that idea and mount buffing wheels instead of discs. I do not have plans to work on huge pieces, do I really need a 1hp motor? I was just thinking a 1/2 hp motor and 6in wheels. Opinions?
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2004
- Messages
- 6,212
jdm61
itinerant metal pounder
- Joined
- Aug 12, 2005
- Messages
- 47,357
I just ordered a Baldor buffer and I made sure that i got the 1800 rpm one
I read a suggstion once that recommended clamping the tang of the blade in a pair of those flat jaw Vice Grips when buffing. Gives you more to hang onto AND makes the whole package weigh a lot more so it doesn't zip off as quickly if the buffer catches it. Another suggestion was to put one of those perforated rubber mat or carpet on the floor so that the knife doesn't bounce back up at you.
I read a suggstion once that recommended clamping the tang of the blade in a pair of those flat jaw Vice Grips when buffing. Gives you more to hang onto AND makes the whole package weigh a lot more so it doesn't zip off as quickly if the buffer catches it. Another suggestion was to put one of those perforated rubber mat or carpet on the floor so that the knife doesn't bounce back up at you.Buffing is a dirty dangerous frustrating step. For that reason I am doing more satin finishing to avoid the buffer.
Dangers have been stated here quite well. Also don't buff when you are angry, and do not buff at all if you are in a HURRY! It will result in massive injuries at worst, or a damaged blade if you are really lucky.
Expect to go back to the grinder at some point. Just when I think I have done all I can at the grinder using the fine micron belts I often buff and find grinder marks that sometimes set me back all the way down to the 400 grit again.
Back to the safety thing again. Buffing is filthy work. I built a cardboard box around the buffing wheel to help funnel the air into the vaccuum/exhaust unit. Card board is great because if you have an accident the knife will likely stick into the card board before it is returned to you and into your throat or other body parts by the spinning rage of the wheel. Wear a leather apron, it all helps.
In addition to the vaccuum/exhaust use a good air filter system to filter the air in your shop. I made one out of an old fan from an old furnace, boxed it in with fine pore air filters. Buffing compound is filthy, and it will get into all parts of the house. However, the worst thing about it, is its toxic affects on your lungs. Cig smoking is health food when compared to breathing buffing dust.
Dangers have been stated here quite well. Also don't buff when you are angry, and do not buff at all if you are in a HURRY! It will result in massive injuries at worst, or a damaged blade if you are really lucky.
Expect to go back to the grinder at some point. Just when I think I have done all I can at the grinder using the fine micron belts I often buff and find grinder marks that sometimes set me back all the way down to the 400 grit again.
Back to the safety thing again. Buffing is filthy work. I built a cardboard box around the buffing wheel to help funnel the air into the vaccuum/exhaust unit. Card board is great because if you have an accident the knife will likely stick into the card board before it is returned to you and into your throat or other body parts by the spinning rage of the wheel. Wear a leather apron, it all helps.
In addition to the vaccuum/exhaust use a good air filter system to filter the air in your shop. I made one out of an old fan from an old furnace, boxed it in with fine pore air filters. Buffing compound is filthy, and it will get into all parts of the house. However, the worst thing about it, is its toxic affects on your lungs. Cig smoking is health food when compared to breathing buffing dust.