so my sheaths are horrible, how do i make em better

C

Crawdaddy

Joined
Sep 7, 2012
Messages
142
hello everybody
i have been informed i needed to come over here and ask nicely for guidance. imo leather work is my weakest link. i'll try to lay out where i am with my stuff so if anybody responds they will have as much information as i know to share. i hand stitch the sheaths and all stitching is done with artificial senuw (spelling?)
i don't have any money to buy leather, maybe one of these days, but not right now. so my leather is unkown dyed or not, from the dumpster of the saddle shop in town. i use a 4x36 to thin it out, i made most of my tools, but i did scrimp and buy a edge beveler and a grooving tool, from tandy the one for the groove for the stitches, i made my own fork deal to space the stitch holes out of a piece of chain link fence bar, i used a dremel to make my makers mark on the head of a bolt for the claw, and a guy i know just bought a laser engraver tool deal for his business and i made a knife for his son as payment for him to make me my leather stamp for the "crawdaddy forge" logo deal. i use a harbor freight drill press to drill the holes for the stitching, always seems to have a couple of the holes come out off, i try to keep the sheath in the same orientation as i am drilling the holes, so i have no idea why those stray ones go off on their own. i just recently made a edge burnisher out of a piece of bois d'arc or osage orange its called most other places, and use a deck screw to hold it in my drill press.
oh and because i am using scrap leather i have to scab the sheaths together kind of the best way i can,
ok, if you need pics of what i got, or video even i can do that, i do what i do because i've had to make this stuff up as i go along, i've been mostly on youtube and all i get over there are atta boys, which are nice, but since my leather work has very poor ratings on the forum, i need to know how to fix it, i will understand if you don't, you are busy etc. but any help would be awesome
not sure what other info you might need, so i will shut up and show my work. thanks in advance to those who do help out

the 2 things that have already been pointed out are that i stamp my "crawdaddy forge " logo too deep so it shows the edges of the stamp, and that i need to come up with some way to clean up the end tag of the belt loop.


the first 3 pics are the one i just finished and shipped, the last 3 pics are a different sheath

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next sheath





 
Well, considering the tools (or lack of tools) and the source of your leather, you sheaths don't look all that bad. Now, having said that, they don't look all that good either, but you are severely hampered by lack of the right equipment and good materials, which can only be fixed one way. You have to come up with some way to justify the expense involved.

You can and will get replies that say "Oh, I do such and so with a kitchen fork and a polished nail, and an old tooth brush handle etc." Well, my friend most of their work looks like that's what they used. The very simple truth is that if you have the proper tools for the job and good material to work with the chances are, with practice, you will get to be very good at it, but it happens one sheath at a time, and not over night. The way a person gets to be considered professional level is sometime after he has made the commitment to become professional, which includes the expense of tools and materials.

There are quite a few free tutorials on you tube etc. and a couple of us old dogs have produced DVDs to help the newcomers along but those DVDs come at some expense. They also shave weeks and months off the learning curve. I am always at your disposal for SPECIFIC questions either here or by email or by phone. The problem you laid out here is so general, I would be typing for a week and still not cover everything. My contact information is below in my sig line as well as directions to where you can obtain my DVDs. (I don't sell them).

Lastly, I wish you very good luck and as I said for specific questions, I'll be your huckleberry.

Paul
 
Qaulity leather and patience. I have seen some quality hand sewn sheaths but as Paul said. Quality equiment and trial and error produce better results.
 
You can turn out good looking sheaths using only basic hand tools (thought the belt sander helps with cleaning up edges).

A sharp punch, groover, and edge slicker all help.

I'm no expert, but got my basic tools from Tandy. Buying decent leather will help. Spend time on the edges of the leather with a slicker will clean the edges up.

A piece of damp jeans material will work for slicking edges. I have done this many times (though now a slicker makes the edging easier and faster).
 
sheathmaker said:
Well, considering the tools (or lack of tools) and the source of your leather, you sheaths don't look all that bad. Now, having said that, they don't look all that good either, but you are severely hampered by lack of the right equipment and good materials, which can only be fixed one way. You have to come up with some way to justify the expense involved.

You can and will get replies that say "Oh, I do such and so with a kitchen fork and a polished nail, and an old tooth brush handle etc." Well, my friend most of their work looks like that's what they used. The very simple truth is that if you have the proper tools for the job and good material to work with the chances are, with practice, you will get to be very good at it, but it happens one sheath at a time, and not over night. The way a person gets to be considered professional level is sometime after he has made the commitment to become professional, which includes the expense of tools and materials.

There are quite a few free tutorials on you tube etc. and a couple of us old dogs have produced DVDs to help the newcomers along but those DVDs come at some expense. They also shave weeks and months off the learning curve. I am always at your disposal for SPECIFIC questions either here or by email or by phone. The problem you laid out here is so general, I would be typing for a week and still not cover everything. My contact information is below in my sig line as well as directions to where you can obtain my DVDs. (I don't sell them).

Lastly, I wish you very good luck and as I said for specific questions, I'll be your huckleberry.

Paul
Click to expand...

thank you Paul for your input, it is appreciated.
i don't charge extra for making a leather sheath, i charge the same for my knives kydex or leather, i have been making knives about 8 months total, 6 months 2 years ago and i've been back at it for 2 months approximately now. i have sold a few knives, but not for much money. and as for buying the proper tools, i agree and hopefully i will get to the point that i can do that. but right now my knife money is the only income and it gets divided up between bills, groceries and what i can of the knife supplies. i am not saying that for a pity me party, i'm just explaining that i am doing the best i can, and i want to truly get better, that's why i am here. and thank you for the offer of the help, if i can come up with something specific i will be sure to ask, thank you
 
Gahagan said:
Qaulity leather and patience. I have seen some quality hand sewn sheaths but as Paul said. Quality equiment and trial and error produce better results.
Click to expand...

thank you, need to be more patient check
equipment will have to wait, and thank you for your input
 
Bigfattyt said:
You can turn out good looking sheaths using only basic hand tools (thought the belt sander helps with cleaning up edges).

A sharp punch, groover, and edge slicker all help.

I'm no expert, but got my basic tools from Tandy. Buying decent leather will help. Spend time on the edges of the leather with a slicker will clean the edges up.

A piece of damp jeans material will work for slicking edges. I have done this many times (though now a slicker makes the edging easier and faster).
Click to expand...


more time on the edges, check, damp jeans, i will have to try that
thank you for your feedback i appreciate it
 
Brand spankin new guy here and also extremely new to leather work of any kind. Also I do not seem to have an artistic bone in my body. That said I've been very pleased with my progress over my last several projects. A few things that have helped me really improve the overall look and quality of my sheaths has been:

1) As said by more experienced above there is no substitute for good material. It's not cheap but you'd be surprised how many projects you can get out of one hide. Inspect it carefully looking for scars, brands, creases or other imperfections. Also check the thickness for consistency.

2) I have really spent a lot of time making my patterns before I cut my first piece of leather. Empty cereal boxes are way cheaper than leather

3) I have a wheeled stitch spacer that is very handy. Also before I drill my holes I use an awl to pierce each hole. Seems to help keep the bit from "walking around" when I do drill.

4) Little things make a BIG difference. For example where you attached the belt loop on the sheath above if you rounded off the square corners you'd be surprised how much nicer it makes the piece.

5) Spend the time to burnish your edges. Several grits of sandpaper ending with a very fine grit. Then some time with a burnishing stick, canvas or old piece of jeans and a little spit really makes a nice edge.

6) I have had to teach myself patience. Slow down or put the piece down for a while.

7) Practice, practice, practice and don't be afraid to throw a piece in the trash. I'll tell you thus far more of mine have ended up there rather than on somebody's belt.

8) I spent a lot of time here and on Google looking at some very fine work. While I am nowhere close to these folks I try to emulate one or two of their ideas on each new piece.

Hope this helps and I everyone I have met so far that has skills has been more than happy to share with me so keeping asking questions.
 
Scorpion Wood said:
Brand spankin new guy here and also extremely new to leather work of any kind. Also I do not seem to have an artistic bone in my body. That said I've been very pleased with my progress over my last several projects. A few things that have helped me really improve the overall look and quality of my sheaths has been:

1) As said by more experienced above there is no substitute for good material. It's not cheap but you'd be surprised how many projects you can get out of one hide. Inspect it carefully looking for scars, brands, creases or other imperfections. Also check the thickness for consistency.

2) I have really spent a lot of time making my patterns before I cut my first piece of leather. Empty cereal boxes are way cheaper than leather

3) I have a wheeled stitch spacer that is very handy. Also before I drill my holes I use an awl to pierce each hole. Seems to help keep the bit from "walking around" when I do drill.

4) Little things make a BIG difference. For example where you attached the belt loop on the sheath above if you rounded off the square corners you'd be surprised how much nicer it makes the piece.

5) Spend the time to burnish your edges. Several grits of sandpaper ending with a very fine grit. Then some time with a burnishing stick, canvas or old piece of jeans and a little spit really makes a nice edge.

6) I have had to teach myself patience. Slow down or put the piece down for a while.

7) Practice, practice, practice and don't be afraid to throw a piece in the trash. I'll tell you thus far more of mine have ended up there rather than on somebody's belt.

8) I spent a lot of time here and on Google looking at some very fine work. While I am nowhere close to these folks I try to emulate one or two of their ideas on each new piece.

Hope this helps and I everyone I have met so far that has skills has been more than happy to share with me so keeping asking questions.
Click to expand...

wow, and cool, great info, i had not thought of sanding the edges to finer grits, i usually just sand them with 120 and try to burnish? slick? the edges, awesome, next sheath i am doing that one.
i had just bought one of the wheeled stitch spacers before our house fire, it is on my list of things to reaquire
and excellent idea on the awl in the stitching hole. the drill holes are kind of large because i broke all the smaller drill bits, again very next sheath
a couple of the guys have mentioned on the rounding of the belt loop tang, i've gotta figure out a way for me to do it, thanks
and i don't have a problem throwing one in the trash, lol that is where i got the leather.in the first place
huge help, and boy i would love to spend a few days in someone's shop and learn this stuff , oh well as always i do the best i can with what i got to work with and strive to get better. thanks for the excellent suggestions, big help
 
Adding to what has already been stated about spending on tools and materials it seems like you are looking for some instant solution to build professional quality sheaths overnight from someone's scrap pile? I have guys here going on 6 months that are still working on refining their techniques. Nothing is going to replace hands on experience and lots of practice.


Crawdaddy said:
..... and boy i would love to spend a few days in someone's shop and learn this stuff , oh well as always i do the best i can with what i got to work with and strive to get better. thanks for the excellent suggestions, big help
Click to expand...
 
Skystorm said:
Adding to what has already been stated about spending on tools and materials it seems like you are looking for some instant solution to build professional quality sheaths overnight from someone's scrap pile? I have guys here going on 6 months that are still working on refining their techniques. Nothing is going to replace hands on experience and lots of practice.
Click to expand...

no sir, i am aware that my leather will not equal someone who has been doing it for years and is at the top of their game, i'm not looking for shortcuts, i've worked with my hands my whole life and i understand the value in using quality materials and quality tools. i don't like bringing this up, because i am not looking for a pity party, but we lost our house to fire last year, i lost about 100 thousand dollars worth of tools. everything from a cordless drill to a plasma cutter. i can't focus on what i don't have, i have to learn to use the tools i do have. i understand that building a skill takes time, disciplined practice, and some busted knuckles. i have worked steel, i've done paint, i've done woodworking, i've built houses, i've only been making knives 8 months, and before that i have never touched leather, so i understand the craft of leatherwork takes time. but if i can't get some pointers on what i am messing up i will simply keep repeating the same mistakes. again i am not looking for a hand out, or pity or whatever, i have what i have to work with, i have no money to purchase equipment, so i will just have to do the best i can with what i have and add to tools as i can. thanks
and i only want to spend a few days or hours even, because i know people who are good are busy and i don't want to waste their time, this is why i came to the forum because in my lil pea brain head it was as close as i am gonna get.
 
Okay, let me start by saying that I disagree with the title. Your sheaths aren't horrible. They look usable and that is a good start. At the same time, you're asking for constructive criticism in order to get better, so understand that there is room for that, just as there is room for us all.

I think that some of what you're getting, in terms of feedback, is that even with very limited tools, you are likely but time and practice away from finer looking work. Time can be at a premium, but know that you'll get faster as you progress. Even so, always try to take as much time as necessary to improve.

Working within the constraints of limited tools will slow you down, and possibly initiate bad habits, but sometimes you have no choice. In this case you've got to be creative. Given your history and experience that should not be a problem. Your leather is different. You cannot use certain leathers for sheath making. Don't use chrome tanned leather. I'd considered using (possibly) chrome tanned just where the handle touches inside an early sheath, but I got over that notion. For my purposes (lining) really thin veg tanned pig skin is super inexpensive. I think I payed around $3 per square foot.

Good leather is a joy to work with. If you have a local Tandy, when you can afford it, go there and look through all of their single or double shoulders. Hand pick the very best you can afford. The good news is that by working with (possibly) inferior leather, the good stuff will be an instant improvement for you.

Practical advice given your circumstances-

First, your tools (in my limited experience) are mostly fine. You've got a lot of what's needed to do solid work.

For my first sheath, I ground out an edge beveler out of an old flat head screwdriver. You already have a good beveler so you're set there.

For hand sewn work, you also have the stitch groover, which goes a long way to making your stitching better, both in terms of form and function.

You need to match your stitching length (how many stitches per inch) to your thread and your drilled holes and needle size. If you have them available, try different sized needles chucked in your press. If the holes are too large, they won't look nice with a given thickness of thread. As a general rule of thumb, I set myself up so that I need a pair of needle nose pliers to do the back stitching, but not totally necessary for the main stitch line. When you buy thread and needles, look at 00 sized needles, and 1mm waxed thread. With the proper stitch length (easy to figure out) and holes (follow advice above) you'll have a better match. I'm not a fan of artificial sinew, but that's just a matter of opinion. It's subjective, so use what you like. One good thing about sinew is that it can be split to make a thinner cord if necessary.

The belt grinder, as mentioned already, is a big asset for evening up your edges along the welt. Take your time and don't burn your leather.

The strap ends (belt loops) are a very easy fix. You can use a metal lid as a template for cutting a good even curve. You can also draw your curve from anything with a curve and cut along the line. English points can be made this way. A strap end punch is a luxury, but not totally necessary.

I'll link you to a thread that goes over the steps to make a great pouch sheath at the bottom. The steps in which you do things are very important. You can do a lot of beveling and burnishing before you glue, drill, dye or anything else. This is especially important with an integrated belt loop. You are currently doing a separate loop, which is fine. In some cases it's better, but it's easier to do an integrated loop when you have a large enough piece to cut the pattern from.

Your stamps are pretty nice being hand made! At some point you'll probably consider buying a professional stamp, but don't fret too hard about that for now. As I mentioned before, you can rub out the border lines fairly easily.

For burnishing, a slick piece of wood is 100% fine. A nylon bone folder is really nice, but it's just a smooth piece of plastic. Technique is more important than the tool in this case. Don't over wet your edges or they'll mushroom when rubbed. You can lightly moisten the edges with wet fingertips.

There are are a million ways to improve anyone's work. It's hard to write everything out, so it helps to have specific questions.

Areas for improvement include, stitching, burnishing, design and finishing.

How are you finishing the leather? Was the leather pre-dyed, or did you obtain it as it is?

Consider a finish if you aren't doing it already. A good finish is a boon for your customers. You can buy any of a ton of finishes, or you can make your own. Personally, I use a mix of beeswax and coconut oil melted together. The oil lowers the melting point of the wax and it doesn't go rancid. You can probably use other waxes, but I got a big 1lb block at Johannes fabric for $10 on clearance. A smaller quantity will go a long way.

I know that I'm forgetting a lot of what I'd wanted to pass along. Please feel free to email or PM me if you have any specific questions. I like your knife work, I'd really like to help with your leather work if I can. I'm new enough that I'm constantly learning. Without the generous help of all of the guys here, I'd be making some pretty rough stuff. Let's get your work rockin as quickly as possible and I bet your knives will sell even better.

Scorpion Wood said:
Brand spankin new guy here and also extremely new to leather work of any kind. Also I do not seem to have an artistic bone in my body. That said I've been very pleased with my progress over my last several projects. A few things that have helped me really improve the overall look and quality of my sheaths has been:

1) As said by more experienced above there is no substitute for good material. It's not cheap but you'd be surprised how many projects you can get out of one hide. Inspect it carefully looking for scars, brands, creases or other imperfections. Also check the thickness for consistency.

2) I have really spent a lot of time making my patterns before I cut my first piece of leather. Empty cereal boxes are way cheaper than leather

3) I have a wheeled stitch spacer that is very handy. Also before I drill my holes I use an awl to pierce each hole. Seems to help keep the bit from "walking around" when I do drill.

4) Little things make a BIG difference. For example where you attached the belt loop on the sheath above if you rounded off the square corners you'd be surprised how much nicer it makes the piece.

5) Spend the time to burnish your edges. Several grits of sandpaper ending with a very fine grit. Then some time with a burnishing stick, canvas or old piece of jeans and a little spit really makes a nice edge.

6) I have had to teach myself patience. Slow down or put the piece down for a while.

7) Practice, practice, practice and don't be afraid to throw a piece in the trash. I'll tell you thus far more of mine have ended up there rather than on somebody's belt.

8) I spent a lot of time here and on Google looking at some very fine work. While I am nowhere close to these folks I try to emulate one or two of their ideas on each new piece.

Hope this helps and I everyone I have met so far that has skills has been more than happy to share with me so keeping asking questions.
Click to expand...

Some good advice here. Just to note, I've seen people use a fork for spacing and it works fine if carefully done. Until you get another overstitcher, consider tapping your stitches with a mallet.

About the overstitcher 3 wheel kit- you have a ton of places to choose from if/when you buy it. That said, I haven't found a better price than at my local Hobby Lobby. They sell it for $20 and I found a full page of 40% off coupons in the back of my local phone book. With a coupon the kit is a no brainer and I highly recommend it if you can swing it.

Good luck and let me know if there's anything I can do to help you.

Anthony

(edit- a lot of what I learned came from this thread http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1139038 I still go back and look at it from time to time)
 
Last edited:
Strigamort said:
Okay, let me start by saying that I disagree with the title. Your sheaths aren't horrible. They look usable and that is a good start. At the same time, you're asking for constructive criticism in order to get better, so understand that there is room for that, just as there is room for us all.

I think that some of what you're getting, in terms of feedback, is that even with very limited tools, you are likely but time and practice away from finer looking work. Time can be at a premium, but know that you'll get faster as you progress. Even so, always try to take as much time as necessary to improve.

Working within the constraints of limited tools will slow you down, and possibly initiate bad habits, but sometimes you have no choice. In this case you've got to be creative. Given your history and experience that should not be a problem. Your leather is different. You cannot use certain leathers for sheath making. Don't use chrome tanned leather. I'd considered using (possibly) chrome tanned just where the handle touches inside an early sheath, but I got over that notion. For my purposes (lining) really thin veg tanned pig skin is super inexpensive. I think I payed around $3 per square foot.

Good leather is a joy to work with. If you have a local Tandy, when you can afford it, go there and look through all of their single or double shoulders. Hand pick the very best you can afford. The good news is that by working with (possibly) inferior leather, the good stuff will be an instant improvement for you.

Practical advice given your circumstances-

First, your tools (in my limited experience) are mostly fine. You've got a lot of what's needed to do solid work.

For my first sheath, I ground out an edge beveler out of an old flat head screwdriver. You already have a good beveler so you're set there.

For hand sewn work, you also have the stitch groover, which goes a long way to making your stitching better, both in terms of form and function.

You need to match your stitching length (how many stitches per inch) to your thread and your drilled holes and needle size. If you have them available, try different sized needles chucked in your press. If the holes are too large, they won't look nice with a given thickness of thread. As a general rule of thumb, I set myself up so that I need a pair of needle nose pliers to do the back stitching, but not totally necessary for the main stitch line. When you buy thread and needles, look at 00 sized needles, and 1mm waxed thread. With the proper stitch length (easy to figure out) and holes (follow advice above) you'll have a better match. I'm not a fan of artificial sinew, but that's just a matter of opinion. It's subjective, so use what you like. One good thing about sinew is that it can be split to make a thinner cord if necessary.

The belt grinder, as mentioned already, is a big asset for evening up your edges along the welt. Take your time and don't burn your leather.

The strap ends (belt loops) are a very easy fix. You can use a metal lid as a template for cutting a good even curve. You can also draw your curve from anything with a curve and cut along the line. English points can be made this way. A strap end punch is a luxury, but not totally necessary.

I'll link you to a thread that goes over the steps to make a great pouch sheath at the bottom. The steps in which you do things are very important. You can do a lot of beveling and burnishing before you glue, drill, dye or anything else. This is especially important with an integrated belt loop. You are currently doing a separate loop, which is fine. In some cases it's better, but it's easier to do an integrated loop when you have a large enough piece to cut the pattern from.

Your stamps are pretty nice being hand made! At some point you'll probably consider buying a professional stamp, but don't fret too hard about that for now. As I mentioned before, you can rub out the border lines fairly easily.

For burnishing, a slick piece of wood is 100% fine. A nylon bone folder is really nice, but it's just a smooth piece of plastic. Technique is more important than the tool in this case. Don't over wet your edges or they'll mushroom when rubbed. You can lightly moisten the edges with wet fingertips.

There are are a million ways to improve anyone's work. It's hard to write everything out, so it helps to have specific questions.

Areas for improvement include, stitching, burnishing, design and finishing.

How are you finishing the leather? Was the leather pre-dyed, or did you obtain it as it is?

Consider a finish if you aren't doing it already. A good finish is a boon for your customers. You can buy any of a ton of finishes, or you can make your own. Personally, I use a mix of beeswax and coconut oil melted together. The oil lowers the melting point of the wax and it doesn't go rancid. You can probably use other waxes, but I got a big 1lb block at Johannes fabric for $10 on clearance. A smaller quantity will go a long way.

I know that I'm forgetting a lot of what I'd wanted to pass along. Please feel free to email or PM me if you have any specific questions. I like your knife work, I'd really like to help with your leather work if I can. I'm new enough that I'm constantly learning. Without the generous help of all of the guys here, I'd be making some pretty rough stuff. Let's get your work rockin as quickly as possible and I bet your knives will sell even better.



Some good advice here. Just to note, I've seen people use a fork for spacing and it works fine if carefully done. Until you get another overstitcher, consider tapping your stitches with a mallet.

About the overstitcher 3 wheel kit- you have a ton of places to choose from if/when you buy it. That said, I haven't found a better price than at my local Hobby Lobby. They sell it for $20 and I found a full page of 40% off coupons in the back of my local phone book. With a coupon the kit is a no brainer and I highly recommend it if you can swing it.

Good luck and let me know if there's anything I can do to help you.

Anthony

(edit- a lot of what I learned came from this thread http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1139038 I still go back and look at it from time to time)
Click to expand...

woohoo, thank you Anthony, that is what i was looking for, some "ok, here is the problem, and here are a couple of solutions", thank you. i will see if i can answer what you have written, even though a couple of the answers are well, ,,, anyway, here i go
- really looking forward to getting some good leather :)
- i like the edge beveler , before i was just rounding on the edge of the sander
- stitching groove tool, i'm not very comfortable with, and i guess it shows, will take some scrap and spend some time while watching the suggested videos and practice getting it straight and consistent, now that that was mentioned i can see my deviation in the pictures
- i think i am going to start taking pictures and analyzing my work when i start on the finish stuff, and work from the camera as i go, doesn't seem one can hide much from the camera, lol
- will put the 1mm waxed thread on the list, i had read several places that artificial sinew was the way to go, so that is why i got it, i will just need to pour over the seasoned guys work and see if they have close up detail so i can take a look at it, as that will be a visual thing, not a typed out thing
-strap ends, have that on my list to work on, since i am having to scab the belt loop i figured i would make a template out of wood and make the ends to the rounded needed, so i can cut those out consistently
-i think i have been guilty of getting the edges too wet, didn't seem to me like i was doing any good because the leather was poofing up , good to know
-since leather is unknown i have been using acetone to, i think they called it deglaze?, and then dying the leather black, if i am leaving the leather the tannish color then no deglaze or dye, once the dye is dry i take a damp cloth and wipe the leather down and then i am using carnuba wax over that. probably not close to what i'm supposed to be using, but i had it. and then i buff it out with an old worn out tooth brush
-on my list of finishes, your beeswax cocoanut oil looks good, i'll have to give it a try
- like i said the 3 wheel kit stitching spacer is on my short list to get
-and will definitely check out the thread,
ok, i think that is it, i am going to print this thread out and look over it on coffee breaks, thanks a ton, this is what i was looking for, someplace to start. i have 4 knives i am working on now, and will work on all these things that have been discussed as best i can
thanks again appreciate it
 
For the most part I would echo what has been said previously. I would like to add a couple things that might help you on your budget...

For an edge slicker I use a whitetail antler tine. I use one that is about 4" long and has a slight curve about 1 1/2" from the tip. This allows me to use it as a bone folder as well without the tip wanting to leave unwanted marks in the leather when wet forming.

I no longer use drill bits to make the holes for stitching. I use a needle with the eye ground off, chucked up in the drill press just as Anthony. It may be entirely in my head, but it seems the holes even close back up similar to using an awl. Make sure you are backing your leather with a piece of scrap wood to help keep the holes straight. You can either hang the belt loop off the side or cut a notch in the board for it to sit, allowing the rest of the sheath to stay flat on your makeshift table. I'm sure they are no where near the quality of harness needles, but check out the local big box store for yarn needles. They come in a variety of sizes and come in packages of 4 to 6 depending on the size you buy. I use one a size up from my stitching needle to make my holes.

Have you talked the the saddle shop owner? He would be able to tell you whether he used any chrome tanned leather or if it was all veg tanned. He might also have some larger scraps to give you or maybe even sell you some smaller pieces at a really good price.

Good luck,
Chris
 
I'm not a leaherworker master like the talented folks who've commented so far. I totally suggest listening to them.
But I just wanted to tell you to not be so hard on yourself. I gotta tell you, I like your work thus far. Your sheaths are not up to your standards, but they show a load of talent and hard work put into them. I would carry one of them proudly. They are unique in a way I like.
Onward and upward my friend! Learn from these folks, but don't lose your style and passion in trying for perfection!
 
Salolan said:
For the most part I would echo what has been said previously. I would like to add a couple things that might help you on your budget...

For an edge slicker I use a whitetail antler tine. I use one that is about 4" long and has a slight curve about 1 1/2" from the tip. This allows me to use it as a bone folder as well without the tip wanting to leave unwanted marks in the leather when wet forming.

I no longer use drill bits to make the holes for stitching. I use a needle with the eye ground off, chucked up in the drill press just as Anthony. It may be entirely in my head, but it seems the holes even close back up similar to using an awl. Make sure you are backing your leather with a piece of scrap wood to help keep the holes straight. You can either hang the belt loop off the side or cut a notch in the board for it to sit, allowing the rest of the sheath to stay flat on your makeshift table. I'm sure they are no where near the quality of harness needles, but check out the local big box store for yarn needles. They come in a variety of sizes and come in packages of 4 to 6 depending on the size you buy. I use one a size up from my stitching needle to make my holes.

Have you talked the the saddle shop owner? He would be able to tell you whether he used any chrome tanned leather or if it was all veg tanned. He might also have some larger scraps to give you or maybe even sell you some smaller pieces at a really good price.

Good luck,
Chris
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hey Chris, thanks.
i did buy a pack of yarn needles i think they are anyway, from a certain box store, and they have various sizes, i am using the one in the middle so no biggie on grinding the one the next size up. i will try that when i get to the sheath. and i do use a backer board, piece of 5/4 deck board scrap, i bought a piece and cut into smaller sections with that in mind. the biggest problem i think anyway, is where i transition from the regular welt to where the wedges are for the handle, that is usually where it gets goofy, there and the toe of the sheath. willl try and see if i can brace it up , make a cradle of some kind, thanks for the idea, will try it

saddle shop trip is on my list of stops tomorrow, unfortunately not sure how much useful info i'll be able to get my spanish is lousy and there is only one person who speaks english and one time i went i got him and the other time i didn't. so we will see.
but thanks for the input, it is appreciated.
 
jimh0220 said:
I'm not a leaherworker master like the talented folks who've commented so far. I totally suggest listening to them.
But I just wanted to tell you to not be so hard on yourself. I gotta tell you, I like your work thus far. Your sheaths are not up to your standards, but they show a load of talent and hard work put into them. I would carry one of them proudly. They are unique in a way I like.
Onward and upward my friend! Learn from these folks, but don't lose your style and passion in trying for perfection!
Click to expand...

thank you for those kind words, they mean a lot. and i will try really hard to keep me in my knives, it's what makes it fun, kind of an artistic expression if you will
 
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Going by the things you've said, and how it appears, I'm putting my money on your leather being veg tanned. The stamping, original color and something else you said (can't recall) make it sound so anyway.

Your view on form and function sounds well thought out. I can really appreciate wanting to do something different and unique. Finding your own style is possible, but remember that what people want doesn't always match what you like. We were just talking about this in another thread. I personally love the wild stuff, but that's simply not what anyone orders. The fact that you are selling knives primarily, and accompanied sheaths as secondary may allow you more wiggle room in that sense.

Whatever the case, it sounds like you're on a good path. I look forward to your further work. ;)
 
For rounding corners I use plain old loose change (dimes more often than anything) and an exacto knife. Depending on the radius you want shot glasses, small bowels etc.... work and don't cost anything. Also if you are getting veg tanned that has not been dyed prior to you getting it you can case the surface to smooth out some of the creases, wrinkles that show on the pieces you posted. Wasn't sure if that was a look you were going for or a result of the scrap pieces you are using. Tandy sells one that is noting more than a piece of glass with smooth edges so I'm sure with a little effort you can find a suitable free substitute.
 
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