So, what DOES make a good axe?

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d.weglarz13

Joined
Jun 4, 2008
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Okay guys, seeing how I've been wondering more and more about axes and their makers lately, I figured this thread was in order. And, seeing as how I am building a new grinder, why not focus on making axes?
So, we all talk about what axe is great for what use, grind styles, forged vs. cast, etc. Now, why don't we talk about what WE feel is a great axe......I'm not really wondering about the hafts, as that seems pretty much common sense for the most part, but really what makes a great axe head so much better than a cheap one. Or, more to my point........What makes the older vintage axes so much better than the crap that is being put out these days, other than maybe that they were forged.....

So, what say you? What would YOU want if you were buying your ideal axe, from lets say a custom maker like I am hoping to be one day. Thanks, can't wait to hear some opinions....

dave
 
Geometry, steel and heat treat.

You probably need at least 55 points of carbon to make a good durable axe bit. Assuming this is a wood chopping axe and not a carving axe you want convex cheeks or a high-centerline on your axe. The heat treat should produce a durable edge in the mid-50's RC. The eye should align well in the axe head. There should be a small amount of curvature in the bit. The toe should be slightly longer than the heel.

Those would be some of the key points in my perfect axe.
 
Ok, thanks Pegs, definitely along the lines I was thinking. How about the forging? Does a good axe need to be forged? I know a lot about knives, and depending on the steel, a lot of knives can be ground from a billet of steel without any need to ever enter a forge. But, an axe is a much more "impact" related use of a steel tool head. I know there are supersteels that are focused on impact use as far as toughness goes, but would such an axe be better with a super steel like this to be ground to profile, or a steel that can take a good forging be any better? Again, Im just curious, but starting to think.......

And, how about style of heads? Would one want a style more like the hudson bay, or am I better off thinking of American style axe geometry? Thanks for the answers so far

dave
 
I think there will always be arguments about whether forging toughens or compacts the steel. I have a feeling it does, but maybe the forged blades I've used had a better HT.
I think axe heads will always lend themselves to forging, simply due to geometry. For any woodsman's style axe, making the head by stock reduction would take so long & burn through so much grinding medium as to become uneconomic. There is the smaller cost of wasted steel. Forging steel seems more efficient, in my mind.

There is also the question of construction: do you use a blade quality steel for the whole thing, & differentially temper; or use a hi carbon insert for the edge & more ductile steel for the rest. Forging keeps your options open.
 
d.weglarz13 said:
And, how about style of heads? Would one want a style more like the hudson bay, or am I better off thinking of American style axe geometry? Thanks for the answers so far

dave
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I love Hudson Bays and own several, but they should be only 1 1/2 or 1 3/4 lbs. Otherwise they are too blade heavy. A larger axe should be any of the other patterns such as Dayton, Michigan, Jersey etc. with convexed cheeks. The best Hudson bays were the early Maine wedge shaped ones as made by Peavey or Snow & Nealley before they lengthened the bit. They were made for bushcraft uses like trapping, camping, canoe trips, not logging.
DSC00010.jpg
[/URL][/IMG] This is a Peavey axe made before 1923 when they moved out of Brewer, Maine and has a 2 piece laminated bit.
 
Another Maine axe, a Witherell I posted before. The pen is pointing to the lamination line between the 2 steels. The bit isn't inserted but is overcoated over the softer steel. The forging is left unpolished except at the bit area which is highly polished. A beautiful axe.

DSC00706_zps69d81f13.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
 
With the new crucible steels and advances in casting technology I doubt that it would be possible to tell the difference (as far as use) between a well finished and heat treated cast or forged axe.
 
Wow, thanks for the detailed replies. Thats what I was thinking, with wasting the steel unless I forge them. So, another question comes to mind.....As far as construction goes.......Which method of construction would be, in your opinions, more desirable? I am really excited about this. I really hope I can get something together soon, and be able to give back something to the community. I will of course let you guys know which direction I go, but am loving hearing your guys' feelings about it. Thanks again.

dave
 
Good stuff half axe. Good to see some recognition for the Maine axes, my very favorite axes.
 
Looks like Im gonna need to look into a power hammer now............Haha, Ive been just patiently waiting for a reason to finally get or build one!!!!

I really like that Peavey axe. And that Witherell is real nice too, thanks for the pics
dave
 
You could start with one of those little "munchkin" axes. The ones with the 12 oz. heads. You could make a few to get the process down and you wouldn't need a power hammer.
 
Not a bad idea. Would be nice to practice on some, get the "hang" of it, while I get enough cash together to see about a hammer. Thanks again, feel free to keep sharing.....

dave
 
G-pig said:
Good stuff half axe. Good to see some recognition for the Maine axes, my very favorite axes.[/QUOTE

Those are my 2 favorite axes G, but I don't use them since they are so rare and pristine. Luckily, I've picked up some other Maine users. I just like the simple, almost square blocky shape that most of them have.
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This is my first post in this forum, however I felt like putting in my two cents. Larger axes can be forged by hand. I have been working on that very thing. I do plan to introduce myself and show what I have been working on. There is some room for improvement so I have held off. But I just wanted to say jump in even before you get the power hammer. I would much rather set my welds by hand, I have more confidence in my abilities with a hand held hammer.

Chris
 
d.weglarz13 said:
Not a bad idea. Would be nice to practice on some, get the "hang" of it, while I get enough cash together to see about a hammer. Thanks again, feel free to keep sharing.....

dave
Click to expand...

I like more head to handle contact than the Hudson Bay style has. Ears on axes is not a bad thing at all either.
 
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