So what else do I need to get started?

V

Vulcanite

Joined
Jan 16, 2009
Messages
293
I want to finally get going making some knives for myself. Planning on doing stock removal from spring steel. Some dagger and some chopper type.

Planning on keeping construction pretty simple, just some full tang type w/ handle slabs attached w/ counter sunk screws into tapped holes in the tang. Guards would be integral to the tang. Prolly some home DIY bake on finish.

I have a 2x42 grinder and a table top drill press and an angle grinder w/ cut off wheel for cutting out blanks, got a box of various belts. I also have a buffer unit w/ those razor sharp paper wheels for putting on a final edge. Oh, I also have these drum sander type things that go in the drill press and will sand a radius, and I have a dremmel tool.

Here is what I can come up w/ as needing:
-scribe
-center scribe
-dykem or some die for marking w/ said scribes
-handle slabs
-flat head socket screws and appropriate drills and taps
-some sort of bake on finish stuff.
-kydex, kydex rivets and the anvils for the rivets. (I already got heat gun)

I got another thread specifically asking about tempering/Heat treatment?

Thanks.
 
I don't see sandpaper in a variety of grits. But then again you'll have a bake on finish, pretty sure that will cover up a bad blade finish.

You'll also need to polish up the front of the scales BEFORE you assemble the knife.

You can use a drill bit on a flat plate to do your edge scribing.
 
what is edge scribing?

So you are saying to polish up the edge scales before assembly so I don't scratch the finish on the handle tang?

Why do you need to epoxy the slabs if you are screwing them to the tang w/ counter sunk screws? I'm not trying to be contrary, just wondering.

What would be a good epoxy, for example?

Thanks
 
Last edited:
If you're JUST using screws you'll need standoffs or something else to give a bit more depth for the threads, unless you're just using 1/4". I guess with some thread lock that'd be secure enough but it would make me paranoid to know that I only had maybe a turn or two before that screw was gone. Also, the epoxy provides a moisture seal so the tang doesn't rust under the handles. If you build it so the handles come off regularly for cleaning you can probably avoid that issue, but the usual method is epoxy with pins, screws, tubing, bolts... as protection from sheer.

Lots of threads here about it, I actually started a fairly long thread about using screws to attach handles, for the same reason basically. The end result is that I found it more effective to go the traditional route.
 
Vulcanite said:
........Planning on keeping construction pretty simple, just some full tang type w/ handle slabs attached w/ counter sunk screws into tapped holes in the tang. Guards would be integral to the tang........
Click to expand...

Simple and Integral don't go together. What style guard are you talking about.
Also, Corby bolts may be far easier than trying to have a screw down handle. If you want the removable handle, you would normally add threaded tubes to the tang for the screws to seat in, not just thread the tang.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top