So what kind of knives are the hardest to take apart and put back together?

Cassull

Cassull

Joined
Mar 31, 2012
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318
Just curious, opened up my BM 810 Contego yesterday, first time opening up a folder, took me about 10 minutes to put it back together, was a bit tougher than I was expecting, but I enjoyed the experience and plan on taking some other knives apart.

What kind of knives are generally tough to take apart and reassemble? (AOs, autos, lockbacks, etc)
 
I thought (and maybe it's just me) that the Spyderco Manix 2 is a little tough. That ball bearing lock was a tad tricky to get back together correctly. It took me a few tries.
 
Coil spring autos are a PITA. And i wouldn't even attempt an OTF auto.
 
Lockbacks with strong springs can be a huge PITA to re-assemble (though if the spring isn't too strong it isn't bad), even compared to a full dis-assembly of an Axis type lock. So far they are the only lock that has both made me break a sweat and spend more than 20 minutes.

In comparison frame/liner locks are a breeze.
 
Dual Action Automatics. The hidden releases can make for an "interesting" order of reassembly.
 
Microtech Halo 3 clone. I still managed to get it reassembled.
 
I've dis/re assembled coil sprung autos many times, and they're a cinch compared to my 940, which I've taken apart only once. I took apart a coworker's SOG Flash II, and that was a serious PITA to reassemble. The safety works with a tiny detent ball, which is extremely easy to lose, and the overly complicated mechanics of the knife make it hard to reassemble.
 
I took apart my BM mini barrage, and figured out halfway thru that it was a bad idea. So many parts that had to be seated just right to work properly. It started to turn into a two hour ordeal. I gave up. I had to send it in to BM to get re assembled. I was very surprised when it came back that it was just as fast, but they had eliminated ALL side to side blade play.
 
Planterz said:
I've dis/re assembled coil sprung autos many times, and they're a cinch compared to my 940, which I've taken apart only once. I took apart a coworker's SOG Flash II, and that was a serious PITA to reassemble. The safety works with a tiny detent ball, which is extremely easy to lose, and the overly complicated mechanics of the knife make it hard to reassemble.
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940 was tricky for me at first too. What I do now is leave the back spacer out until the end, leaving more room to slide the knife in. I also put the female end of the pivot part way in because it's annoying trying to line up the flat spot on it while juggling the blade and handle. Holding the axis bar back with my left thumb, I use a toothpick to scrape around down the pivot hole to center everything, then press the pivot in with my left index finger while making any necessary adjustments to the blade with the right. Once it's past one washer and into the blade, it's a cinch. It's probably easier to see than read a huge paragraph, so I'll make a video if you want.

The hardest for me are lock backs. It's basically the same process as an axis, except the force of the lock bar is a lot stronger. It's especially annoying if they're pinned because it's hard to keep the washers in place while sliding the blade in.
 
I can see a DAOTF providing a fair bit of entertainment for you, also there are hidden action or D/A manual/Auto knives tha tmight be more complex than your standard folder. An IKBS knife might prove to be a little weird. If i remember from years ago there was a folder that used some kind of nitrogen spring piston or other goofiness as a custom locking mechanism, that would probably be a PITA to take apart and would most likely require speacialized equipment to reassemble.
 
Back locks with strong springs have been the trickiest for me. Axis locks have more little parts, but if you get it down its not really overly difficult.
 
Planterz said:
I've dis/re assembled coil sprung autos many times, and they're a cinch compared to my 940, which I've taken apart only once. I took apart a coworker's SOG Flash II, and that was a serious PITA to reassemble. The safety works with a tiny detent ball, which is extremely easy to lose, and the overly complicated mechanics of the knife make it hard to reassemble.
Click to expand...

Hmm, guess I'll give my 940 a go next. The blade on it is extremely off-centered, so I'll try to fix it while I'm at it.
 
HotSteel said:
I would say "fixed". :p
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This :D

I'd say anything with an IKBS. I had to use a magnet to disassemble and was ultra careful not to get each of the ball-bearings mixed up. I had to use grease to hold each ball bearing in-place when I put it back together.
 
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