Soap and water

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Buck knives I like

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Feb 10, 2013
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Should I be able to use water with some soap spray / on a pad to clean my spyderco knives with frn and g10 handles then just regular water to rinse without it harming / altering them thanks.
 
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^^he's right^^

I remember cutlerylover putting a frn handled spyderco into his wood stove for a few hours and it surviving with only minor damage....heat treat was gone, but what can ya do.
 
No problem at all,I use thinner on my endura regularly at work and never a prob
 
Soap and water works great, especially with a toothbrush or other agitator to scrub it clean (I mostly use a cheap ultrasonic cleaner I bought years ago these days). Just make sure you blow out the water with compressed air and let dry/oil after cleaning so it it doesn't build up moisture under the liners and pivot. Without compressed air you can use a blowdryer no problem, then oil. edit: I've also been guilty of just flicking out any excess water and spraying it with oil after, usually works fine though I have seen a few cosmetic rust spots on steel liners after a few years of doing this.
 
WD-40 also works well for getting any water out of tight spaces after washing. After the solvent evaporates, add a drop of oil to the pivots, and you should be good to go.
 
Cleaning without taking the knife apart, with G10 I use dish soap and toothbrush, magic eraser any remaining smudges, towel dry, WD40 the pivot then hit it with compressed air, WD40 the G10 to spruce it up a bit, air dry, lube the pivot if desired. FRN, best not to use WD40, unnecessary.
 
FCM415 said:
Cleaning without taking the knife apart, with G10 I use dish soap and toothbrush, magic eraser any remaining smudges, towel dry, WD40 the pivot then hit it with compressed air, WD40 the G10 to spruce it up a bit, air dry, lube the pivot if desired. FRN, best not to use WD40, unnecessary.
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Works everytime :thumbup:
 
Dish soap works best, the clear hand soaps are okay too. The hand soaps with moisturizers and other stuff in them can leave a residue sometimes and aren't as effective at cleaning.
 
Have you used WD-40 on non-lined frn handles such as the Native lightweight? I find it just gets full of gunk and actually slows mine down. Please enlighten me!
 
I have on occasion, like you found if you leave it there it does collect grit and lint pretty quickly, all oils will do that if applied heavily and left to sit. If I use a spray lube and get it inside the handles I'll either blow it out with compressed air or take a paper towel or rag, fold it so it fits tight, and run it down the blade channel so there's nothing left save a trace of oil inside the handle.
 
There is a new variant of "Dawn" dishwashing soap that I've had great luck with. It's called "overnight soaking Dawn">> it's formulated to soak heavily baked on cooking vessels for an extended period of time. I'm here to tell you that this stuff really does what the manufacturer claims that the product does. I've also found it great to remove stubborn stains and hard to remove dirt, grease and grime.

Now when you get your G-10 handles clean there is a product called "Ballistol" that conditions and even heals up scratches on G-10 handles. I have had superb luck with both of these products and highly recommend them.

For extremely hard to remove dirt,grease, grime and any other stuff that is hard to remove I have a product that works wonders. It is an old school cleaner called TSP ( Tri-Sodium Phosphate)>> I will warn you all ahead of time to use chemical resistant gloves because this stuff is extremely caustic and will take the skin off your hands if you're not careful.
 
I use dish soap and warm water then dry with a towel. Every once and again(month to 2 months) I'll take the knfe apart to clean all the internals using the same method. I don't use compressed air or any kind of lubricant/water displacer. Though sometimes I'll use the air at work to blow the pocket lint out but not as a way to dry it.
 
I'm a meat cutter, I've use the tenatious for months. Lots of plasma. There really is no blood left in meat,once it's broke down to there familiar shape. Bleach, soap, and chemical cleaners, they don't mess with the scales or the steel. It also doesn't hold bacteria on the scales, but under the scales, where the pivot is I'm sure there's a little something..I take my knives apart, like my guns and clean them 1 time a month.
 
Shotgun said:
I use dish soap and warm water then dry with a towel. Every once and again(month to 2 months) I'll take the knfe apart to clean all the internals using the same method. I don't use compressed air or any kind of lubricant/water displacer. Though sometimes I'll use the air at work to blow the pocket lint out but not as a way to dry it.
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Is there a reason one would not use compressed air? just curios.
 
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The mention of ballistol on the scales reminds me of something. Many micarta and G10 handles will turn a lighter color, as the cleaning strips them of any and all surface oils including the ones from manufacture. Nothing is hurt by this, it just changes the appearance until oils are reintroduced to the handles either through use or through any number of lubricants applied and wiped off the scales.
 
yoda4561 said:
The mention of ballistol on the scales reminds me of something. Many micarta and G10 handles will turn a lighter color, as the cleaning strips them of any and all surface oils including the ones from manufacture. Nothing is hurt by this, it just changes the appearance until oils are reintroduced to the handles either through use or through any number of lubricants applied and wiped off the scales.
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I did not know that. :thumbup:
 
I like to let my knife soak in some pretty hot and soapy water for a good 5 minutes, then I rinse it off with really hot water and shake it dry. Then I use a paper towel to absorb as much water as I can, out of all the cracks and crevices. Using really hot water means that some of it will evaporate and you will end up with less water sitting in cracks. Then, depending on the knife, I will take a q-tip with a tiny bit of oil and rub the steel parts down so they don't rust. I let that sit for a minute or two so the oil can get into every pore of the metal. After that I take a clean q-tip and remove as much oil as possible so it doesn't attract dust and pocket lint. Then I put a drop or two of oil on the pivot and absorb any that drips out. That's pretty much it. Been working great so far, no rust and minimal dust attraction. I do like to leave a bit of oil on the steel liners if I can, but not enough to where you'd notice it. I'd rather have a little dust than rust.

Also, just like others have said, if my G10 or micarta is looking a little aged, I put a tiny bit of oil on it and it looks good as new.
 
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