Sodbuster construction

huntnfishin

huntnfishin

Joined
May 16, 2009
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Hi all. Have a quick question about sodbuster construction pertaining to the rivet. I understand a birds eye rivet is stronger than a solid brass one? I am looking at this knife as a potential purchase and think perhaps I am better off finding one with a different rivet. What do you think? It’s a larger sodbuster in fancy bog oak but the price tag is a bit high for something like this for me. Have a gander and give me your honest opinion. AB2FD28D-BEEE-4D75-B662-207D84DF5F5A.jpeg
 
Just to make sure I understand the difference...

A birds eye rivet is a section of rod in different metals (copper, steel, iron, brass, etc.) that is threaded through the pivot, through a washer, then peened over.

Brass cutlery rivets are two piece rivets that are threaded through both sides, with one fitting inside the other, then crimped tight.

Corby bolts are threaded from both sides, with one threaded in the other and screwed tight.

Does this sound right?
 
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Cutlery rivets
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Chicago screws
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Corby bolts
I can't find an image of a birds eye rivet, however it functions as described above.
I think the birds eye rivet can be pretty strong if done like the GEC Farm&Field, with a domed rivet over the washer. Very little chance of this type to slip as a normal pivot pin does in a bolster when lateral pressure is applied.
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Bird Eye: Pin and washers, pin peened. Can fail (see post number 8, by Jolipapa Jolipapa )

Cutlery Rivets: Large Shoulders, like a Corby Bolt/Chicago Screw, but not threaded. Slightly over-size diameter tapered post, may or may not have a knurled or ringed/barbed post. Permanently pressed together.

Corby Bolts/Chicago Screws: Large heads, threaded post. Can be disassembled. (unless assembled using red locktite or an excess of blue locktite.)

For a liner-less knife like the Sod Buster pattern. In my opinion the Cutlery Rivet and Corby Bolt/Chicago Screw would be the stronger, simply because of greater internal contact area compared to the contact area of a peened pin.

The rivets on an Old Hickory and Russell Green River with wood handle slabs are cutlery rivets. (how many old/ancient/antique Old Hickory or Russell Green River butcher knives, or "Buffalo Skinner" knives, for example, have you seen or heard of, that is missing a handle rivet?)

My apologies, but I currently don't have any unused cutler rivets to take a photo of, with me. :(
I do have some un-used Corby Bolts/Chicago Screws, however. :) Cutlery rivets look the same but have a slightly over-size diameter tapered non-threaded post (that may or may not be knurled or ringed/barbed) and tapered hole, and no screw slot on either part.

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Jolipapa said:
I don't think. Anyway, beware...
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This is why I think GEC gets it right by leaving the head on the (spun?) pivot pin,at least thats how it appears to me. The other method doesn't leave a head on it and relies on friction from the pin being peened tightly in the hole of the washer. I've wondered why knife makers don't simply chamfer/counter sink the hole in a bolster before peening in the pin. That would create a recessed head if a flush pin was desired. And would make a stronger connection reducing the chance of one slipping causing blade play.
 
DavidABQ said:
After reading this thread I am warming up to the more modern a slipjoints that are held together with screws.
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Standard construction is normally fine If you don't pry with it, and even then think of all the old scout and electricians knives with screwdrivers which have stayed together and tight.

However I'm just someone who doesn't really like screw constructed folders because they always loosened on me and becsuse with screw I find myself trying to adjust it perfectly.

A screw constructed knife would definitely do away with any concerns you may have, hopefully you can find a pattern you want in a screw construction.
 
Thanks so much for everything. This has been really on point information for me. I appreciate it. Hope I can return the favor.
 
Any differences in construction when it comes to Case Sodbuster offerings ?
In their yellow delrin and other synthetic knives the “ brass rod” is clearly visible whereas in their bone sodbuster is not.

I am about to pull the trigger on a Case Sodbuster and trying to decide between synthetic or bone offerings.
 
Otter hippekniep seems to have the disc that the pin spreads over. I was eyeing on one yesterday but decided on something else for now.
 
CelloDan said:
Any differences in construction when it comes to Case Sodbuster offerings ?
In their yellow delrin and other synthetic knives the “ brass rod” is clearly visible whereas in their bone sodbuster is not.

I am about to pull the trigger on a Case Sodbuster and trying to decide between synthetic or bone offerings.
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They are indeed different and the scales are very different too. The delrin ones are thick slab but lightweight with a larger diameter flat pivot pin ( I think Queen Cutlery used a Bird's Eye type on their Country Cousins) Bone slabs much thinner but still sturdy construction and it uses a small pin pivot, no blade play after 3 years use, very tight good construction on this Chestnut Bone cv (recommend this) just avoid dropping the bone versions, delrin can handle that well. Curiously, yellow delrin can get centre pin cracks, esp on RR knives but CASE is not immune either, odd.

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Will Power said:
They are indeed different and the scales are very different too. The delrin ones are thick slab but lightweight with a larger diameter flat pivot pin ( I think Queen Cutlery used a Bird's Eye type on their Country Cousins) Bone slabs much thinner but still sturdy construction and it uses a small pin pivot, no blade play after 3 years use, very tight good construction on this Chestnut Bone cv (recommend this) just avoid dropping the bone versions, delrin can handle that well. Curiously, yellow delrin can get centre pin cracks, esp on RR knives but CASE is not immune either, odd.

Fm13Eug.jpg
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Gracias Will :)

I saw that your sodbuster is resting on a beautiful loaf of bread and could not resist showing off my sourdough :cool:
I shall get me a sodbuster to match your pic :)

PS: my daughters have a fit when they see me using margarine on the bread, they said I should eat REAL butter :D

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huntnfishin said:
Hi all. Have a quick question about sodbuster construction pertaining to the rivet. I understand a birds eye rivet is stronger than a solid brass one? I am looking at this knife as a potential purchase and think perhaps I am better off finding one with a different rivet. What do you think? It’s a larger sodbuster in fancy bog oak but the price tag is a bit high for something like this for me. Have a gander and give me your honest opinion. View attachment 1470605
Click to expand...

I honestly don't think there is much difference in strength between the pictured knife and a knife with birdseye rivets. The handle material may have more of an impact on strength. Having taken apart a variety of sodbusters, I find them all to be pretty solid and well-held together, regardless of method. I think this has more to do with the size of the pivot pin than the type.
 
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