Sog Revolver-H review -lots of pics-

Nice work, do you intend to try it out on bone? In regards to using the gut hook to trim branches, can't you just pop them off with the blade much faster? Can you gets pictures of the locking mechanism which holds the blade in place?

-Cliff
 
Thanks Cliff,

I'll try the saw out on bone when the opportunity presents itself. As for the gut hook, I actually found that it worked faster because you just pull it over the twigs and they pop off (i've always found that pulling is easier than pushing).

Here are some pics of the lock that I just took.

019fh.jpg


^ This one shows the lock-pin hinge point


025qx.jpg


^ This is the Lock-pin (Duh)


039oa.jpg


^ Another shot of the pin and hinge point


042nn.jpg


^ this is a picture of the end of the lock-pin, it is round so that it glides over the blades.
 
Socintel, you get my vote for "detailed photos" of the year..... :eek:


As with all your photos, these are excellent.

Your right about the pull cutting and limbing with the gut hook, it's fast and saves on you main blade edge. You can get a big pile of smaller limbs in no time and never touch your main blade until you need bigger limbs.

The saw will cut bone very well, it's been doing this for a couple years now with excellent results.

Robbie Roberson :)
 
socintel said:
I actually found that it worked faster because you just pull it over the twigs and they pop off (i've always found that pulling is easier than pushing).
Yeah, I don't slice them off, I chop them off. Depends on the knife how exactly you do it, but on small branches you should be able to lop them off in swaths with wrist pops.

This enables you to clear off long sections of the stick at once. With the Revolver you would likely need to grip back on the handle to shift the balance point ahead far enough to get decent heft on the swing.

Is the saw fine enough to allow cutting of thick ropes and other synthetics? Some of the Japanese jaws can actually do this fairly well, even cut cardboard and plastics decent as well.

Robbie Roberson said:
... saves on you main blade edge.
Wood blunts blades really slowly, even on cheap machetes you can chop with them for a long time before the sharpness drops where you notice a problem cutting grass.

The main blade edge would also be a lot easier to sharpen than the little hook, any additional edge gives you versatility though.You could probably use it to pull/pop cut a zip tie easier than with the main blade.

You have cut a significant amount of bone and not seen a reduction in sawing performance? How many cuts, 10, 100 or 1000?

-Cliff
 
Cliff, I would guess I have cut somewhere between 50 and 100 assorted deere, cow, ham and a few I could not identify in the last 2 years and not noticed any big difference in the teeth except for maybe the needle end is not as needly :rolleyes: as it was, but it still cuts great.

It's really surprised me how well it's performed considering how many trees, limbs and bones I have cut in the last couple years.

Robbie Roberson ;)
 
Cliff Stamp said:
Yeah, I don't slice them off, I chop them off. Depends on the knife how exactly you do it, but on small branches you should be able to lop them off in swaths with wrist pops.
Thats a good idea, I'll have to remember that one. ;)

Cliff Stamp said:
Is the saw fine enough to allow cutting of thick ropes and other synthetics? Some of the Japanese jaws can actually do this fairly well, even cut cardboard and plastics decent as well.
Not sure, I'll have to try that when I get a chance. It probably will saw through cardboard and plastic. But it might tend to snag on some ropes..... not really sure.


Cliff Stamp said:
The main blade edge would also be a lot easier to sharpen than the little hook, any additional edge gives you versatility though.You could probably use it to pull/pop cut a zip tie easier than with the main blade.
What is the recommended method of sharpening a gut hook?
 
Thanks for the great review, if I didn't already blew my knife budget for this month, I'd just buy one right away :D... oh well, maybe next month ;)
 
socintel said:
What is the recommended method of sharpening a gut hook?
EZLap makes a diamond rod that will work to sharpen the gut hook. It's what I use. It's in a brass holder that's threaded. As Robbie said the saw works great on bone, even antler, if you want to cut them off with a saw. I used mine last deer season on several deer and only have to strop the blade to sharpen it. As far as the saw, nowhere near losing it's sharpness, and it's gets used alot. My wife had it out in the yard pruning with it. It's one of my hunting tools and yard tools. It see's alot of use.
Scott
 
What is the recommended method of sharpening a gut hook?

A thin ceramic rod, $0.99 at SMKW works well to refine the edge, Then use use a piece of leather charged with a polishing compound. Gut hooks, shroud cutters, and the like work very well with a high polished edge.

Additionally, a high polished edge will last much longer in this application than a rougher finished one.
 
Thanks for the information Razorback and knifetester , I'll have to get myself one of these.;)
 
Cliff Stamp said:
Is the saw fine enough to allow cutting of thick ropes and other synthetics? Some of the Japanese jaws can actually do this fairly well, even cut cardboard and plastics decent as well.
Cliff,
I just went outside to try this and it was capable of doing all of the above.
013wj.jpg


It cut the rope better when it was pulled taught but was still able to cut even when there was some slack. This rope wasn't that thick but I would imagine that the saw would work better on thick ropes anyway because they are more firm and less likely to snag...... not sure about this though.


029mm.jpg


For plastics I cut of the neck of a soda bottle, anything thinner than that and I would rather use a knife anyway. The cardboard did snag a little as you can see, I would guess it will saw through thicker more firm cardboard better. As you can see this piece of cardboard was rather flimsy and was somewhat damp because it is a very humid day.

I hope this answers your question.:)
 
Yes thanks, there are better pure wood cutting profiles, especially for large woods, but I like the versatility of that type of tooth pattern, and outside of actually bucking large logs where you would want a swede style blade, they work very well.

-Cliff
 
Back
Top