Soldering bolsters on slip joint My way (pic heavy)

SBuzek

KnifeMaker
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Dec 7, 2006
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In another thread some of the newer guys were talking about soldering bolsters on a slipjoint liner,I decided to do a small tutorial on the way I do it.Makes it pretty simple and works well for me.
So here we go.I use Staybrite solder in 1/16" and stay clean flux also the first thing to do is take a 1" spring clamp from HF and file an 1/8" divot in the center.

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Then prep your bolster stock,I surface groun d a piece but you can flattern on a granite plate or what ever just make sure it's flat. Decide on the length of your bolster and cut the pieces slightly oversize.

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Place your bolster on the liner and clamp and drill through

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Place a couple of small drops of super glue on the bolster and line up and stick the bolsters together.An drill through.Mark your bolster for right and left side and which way is up.

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Put a pin throught the holes and flatten the inside of the bolster that will contact the scales.

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Seperate the bolsters and clean up the inside from the super glue>Put the bolster on the liner,place a pin through it and line it upwhere you want it and scribe a line.

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More in next post
Stan
 
OK now it's time to flatten some solder,take a polished hammer and flatten the solder till it's about 3/16" wide

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Next take the bolster and liner apart,use a lead pencil and put a wide line behind your scribe mark,this will keep the solder from flowing the wrong way.Then apply flux to the bolster and liner.Doesn't take much just good and damp.

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Cut 3 pieces of the solder about 3/16" long and place on liner.

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Set the bolster on the liner,put a pin through the hole and clamp.Place the clamp in the vise and heat slowly just till the solder melts.

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Perfectly soldered bolster

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Now just put the two liners together and line up the other b olster and repeat.
Hope this helps and any questions feel free to ask
Stan
 
Stan, as one of the new guys on the other thread, THANKS! This really clears up A LOT of questions I had. I feel confident that I'll be able to at least get the bolsters to stick now.

Only question I have is why do you do it this way instead of tinning the liners and bolster then clamping and heating?

Ok, one other question; this works just the same on brass right?
 
Yep,works the same on brass,but you will have a thin silver line if doing brass to brass.
The reason I don't tin them first is I found out this cuts out a step by just putting the solder inbetween the pieces and heating just once.
Stan
 
I guess I am another new guy who needed this! Thanx! I soldered mine already, but this would have saved me a bit of hassle when the bolster tried to float away once the flux melted!

Using this method, does the pin ever get soldered into place?


-Xander
 
Stan,

Could you explain how and why you milled out the liners like you did?

Thanks,

Nick
 
The reason for milling out the liners is to keep from getting scratches on the blade tang when opening or closing the knife. How I did it would take a whole new WIP.
Basically I made a jig with a center pin and some clamps and used a 3/8" end mill and cut them out.
When I get a chance to get back in the shop I will try to get some pic's of the way I do it.
 
That is an old thread, but great advice has been given!
I pre-tin my parts since the first time and always had good results, but this method should really cut down time and so it is worth trying.

The reason why i'm pre tinning is 'cause sometimes, expecially near the edges i get some flux browning (solder won't stick there)...with the pretinning method i can go back and reflux those scorched areas until the solder is solid in place. I'm afraid should something go wrong with the above method i could get some visible joint or even a black line somewhere in the joint.
 
Great method. I could never get my bolsters to take with the old method
Of tinning each side first. I use this Method every time and want to thank you for posting it!
 
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