Soldering guard to damascus blade

D

Dana Hackney

Joined
Nov 1, 2005
Messages
174
Hi folks,

I've finally ground a piece of damascus, had it heat treated, shaped a NS guard, and am now ready to solder the guard to the blade.

My question is how do I avoid messing up the etched blade when soldering? I mean, how do I clean up the guard/blade junction after soldering? I don't want to mess up the etched blade by having to hand sand it and ruin the etch. Is there a trick to this? Will the flux mess up the etch as well?

I plan on using some of Brownell's heat stop to keep the heat from travelling up the blade. It's not differentially heat treated so maybe I should forgo using this stuff?

I've spent a lot of time on this blade and don't want to undo all that I've done, and would appreciate all the suggestions you can offer.

Many thanks,
Dana Hackney
Monument, CO
 
Flux is acidic, Dana, and will eat oxides. Not real good on an already-etched blade. Might be best to JB weld this one if the fit is tight. Next time try soldering before etching. Then, after cleanup, paint the guard with nail polish to protect it and dip the blade in etchant.
 
I should have thought about that before etching - what a dummy! Oh well, live and learn.
I think I'm going to have to make another guard as I think I may have too much slop
in the fit of the guard. If I look down at the guard/blade junction I can see a tiny, irregular
gap.

Thanks, again, Mike.

Kind regards,
Dana
 
Fitzo's rite on, and what your describing is the main reason I don't solder anything unless I have too.
 
My problem is that, even with using filing fixtures for making the guard slots, I cannot
get a good enough fit to use the JB Weld method like Terry Primos explains on his
website. I guess I need to invest in a mill when I can afford to.

I've been thinking I'd try using some Lab Metal to fasten the guard to this
piece. What do you think, Bill and Mike? Here are the specs from the Alvin Products site:

Once hardened, Lab-metal can be milled, chiseled, drilled, sawed, tapped and machined. Filing, sanding or grinding Lab-metal to a feather edge provides a smooth metallic repair. Lab-metal will not shrink, crack or peel. Not affected by mild acids, gasoline, oil or petroleum solvents. Lab-metal is aluminum filled, resisting attack of rust, rot and mildew. Lab-metal withstands temperatures as high as 350ºF (and as low as -40oF) and when hard.

Many thanks,
Dana
 
Dana, I looked at that Lab Metal. Other than being a 1-part aluminum material instead of 2-part steel-loaded, I don't see a lot of difference over JB Weld in principle.

Even with a mill, there are still "clunkers" that end up in the scrap bucket. It boils down to a lot of patience, a few file strokes and another try-fit. Now, if one has a really tight Bridgeport with a DRO and $1000 Kurt vise, maybe it's a lot easier. :D I wouldn't know....:(

I keep all my failure-guards in a little box. Before I cut a new one, I check to see if any of those might be made to work. You're not alone, Dana....
 
I think I might do a "dry" run with a piece of scrap O-1 and one of those clunkers, to see
how it performs, as well as what the seam looks like.

I know I need to be more patient (takes me a looooong time as it is) with the hand filing, because I'd like to try my hand at using some SS (303 or 416) guards.

Thanks again, Mike,
Dana
 
Again Fitzo's got it rite. I have a mill and still have to do a little filling. I normaly file to where it'll almost go all the way on and then tap it on with a block of wood with a cutout for the tange and a 3lb. hammer. If it don't go a little more filling, then tap it on. No go a little more filling, try it again and aww crap! Through that gard into the spare gard box and start anouther! I've gotten to where I only have to remake about 1 in 10 gards now so I guess I'm improving.

One thing that helps is to file a shelf on the sides of the tange that is a couple thousands smaller than the tange. Just use a file guid to make sure that it is perfectly lined up with the front and back gaurd stops or it'll look even worse.
 
What Fitzo stated was absolutely right. I have many "oversized" that I have kept around and was able to use later on. Just one too many file strokes and you might as well start over. We learn this quickly.

Too loose is too loose and just doesn't work. Like the old saying goes...you can't polish a turd.

Craig
 
I guess I just need to be more patient and give myself some more time for practise.
I'll keep plugging along.

Happy new year.

Dana
 
Another neat trick if you have taken a couple of swipes too much off with your file is to squeeze the hole down a few thousands with your press or a hammer. You can squeeze it on the blade to nearly a perfect fit but take it back off and squeeze it just a tad more. I like to taper my tang slightly so the last little bit is a squeeze fit too. I too like to leave a little lip on each side of the blade and you will have a perfect looking fit even if it is a couple thousands loose.
Also if you are worried about getting solder on your damascus blade, take a piece of beeswax and wipe the front of the guard and the blade with it. Leave a good coat on it. It won't migrate up the blade to get in your guard and ruin your solder joint with the blade down in the vice. Also the vice is a good heat sync to keep your blade from getting too hot. Use lowtemp. silver solder. You aren't worried about the strength as much as you you are the fit. If you get a good solder joint, the strength will be plenty good.The solder will not stick to to your damascus blade even it it does come through the front of the guard and even if some does come through, it is easily cut off with a razor blade with careful trimming.
 
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